Racinjitter

That white s130 is gorgeous! Pics of my other 88 z31. Shiro 981 of 1002. Fronts are 17x9 et +2 and rears are 18x9.5 et +15 (soon to be +5)

Much better! Wait till you see my next setup... Flush. Moar flush than the bulitt's and the battle's. On the shiro, on the ground. I have the rears installed, but not with the spacers. They are pretty good, but I think that the 18x9.5 et +15 needs to be a et +7 or 0. The fronts are going to be 17x9 et +2 when I am done. PS... I have a fender roller if you want to go more flush.

LOL, I forgot about that quote in your sig. I will dig out one of my vg30et knock sensors... I seem to remember you saying that they are green. I seem to remember seeing a green knock sensor in my parts bin. BTW, shitro will be out this weekend. While I am getting shitro we can look at the other rb's in my storage unit, if that will help.

FYI the 85 T-tops did not have locks in them. The 86+ did however. This is a set of AE t-tops... (in the lower right corner.)

Good to hear everything is worked out now. Did you take any video?

I have never been able to remove the I-shaft from the column. I ended up giving up on all of them before I they came free. I even used an acetylene torch to cherry it up. Maybe us northerners have too much rust buildup?

Not bad at all. Once you get the wheel hop out of it you should be able to launch it. Sorry I missed your call... I am getting a new phone this week (one that doesn't need a charger to talk on it.)

LOL, I don't see how your first idea of removing the suspension will do anything for a z31... You would still have the body in the way big time.

If you really want to know... contact StreetFighter on this forum. He is the fabrication genius that works for Boost Logic. He also has this setup on his 2jz-z31. IIRC he is aiming for 750whp at 24 psi.

The serial nine adapters can be bought from Serial Nine directly. http://www.serialnine.com/index.php?cPath=104. The strut tubes, well they come off of your car, or you buy a set to cut apart from a junkyard or the like. The coil overs can be bought form hundreds of places. I recommend touge factory out of Chicago. http://shop.tougefactory.com/default.aspx or you can try to go directly to Stance http://stance-usa.com/sus/.

Well, if the 240z uses 30mm OD strut tubes, then yes they will work. LOL, Bump steer spacers! This will not be the final ride height, it will be higher off the ground.

The rear at the side skirt is close to 3" I think it is under 3" but I didn't measure it, my helper did. The front is closer to 5". My creeper will no longer slide under the car. I will take more measurements when I have more time. I have a hover car. Approximately one 88T brake rotor from the ground. Approximately two 88T brake rotors from the ground. So I slammed it. It is as low as it can go, without modifying the lower control arms. The LCA's are bottomed out against the frame rails. Also the tension rods are grounded out against the tension rod to body bracket and the sway bar is rubbing against the body. This leaves the front SS lip at 2" of clearance. The way I got the car this low, is completely unsafe for driving. But it is def hard parked. The front factory ride height at the front fender is 25 3/4" and the rear is 26 1/2"... On the shiro it is currently 22 5/8 in the front and 21 1/2. Making the front total drop being 3 1/8" and the rear being 5". Control arm interference. Damn, I can't push dimes... But I can push pop cans.

So there is a defined step in diameter about 6mm from the base of the knuckle where the strut tube is inserted. With the saw blade that I was using, if I cut right at the step, that would give me .5mm less leaving me with 5.5mm on the knuckle. So that is what I did. Then I ground down the knucle so that the S9 adapter sits level on the knuckle. You can see a small gap between the adapter and the knuckle. This is not good. Here they are gound down, and level with the knuckle. Next I tacked them up, and welded them all together. It is a PITA to weld in between the tube and the upright for the backing plate/caliper bracket stays. But I found an extended collett for the welder and did it up, breaking the collett in the process. I still have to drill for the remote damper adjusters, and at that time I will be gussetting the tube to the knuckle. I want to make sure that it stays in one piece. (It will hold up no problems, but I am thinking overkill). I did not weld the inner tube to the S9 adapter' date=' I should have for more strength, but I did not. If you do weld the inner tube to the S9 adapter it will not change the lowest to the ground setting. It will still be the same height. It is my recommendation that you weld the S9 adapter to the tube if you are not going to gussett the knuckle. So yes, I welded the S9 adapter to the knuckle directly. I am going to weld 1/4" plate to the inner portion of the knuckle and I am going to bridge the gap between the strut tube and the upright of the brake caliper mount. I may add more gussetts depending on how I feel. Yes, you are correct. The 5.5mm is the same height as the lower inner lip of the S9 adapter. I will take a pic to clarify this. Or if Benedict can take a pic with them not welded, that will explain it just as well. I am probably not going to weld the inner tube to the outer S9 adapter... But I did finish up the welding on them today. I used 1/4" plate steel and welded in 15mm x 40mm rectangle onto the front and back of the spindle. I also made a wedge to fit in between the caliper upright and the S9 adapter. Rough measurement of the wedge before I ground it down on one side is 20mm x 15mm. Here are the coil overs that I bought a while ago. They are Stance GR+ 3 Way's. Right now the spring that are on the coil overs are rated at 9k front and 7k rear. I have a set of 12k for the fronts and 10k for the rears on the way. I am making rear upper mounts and lower sleeves so that nothing on the body needs to be modified and ghetto washers are not utilized. Max low and high should be measured by the end of the weekend. I guess I should say this now before anyone gets confused... These are going to be installed onto the shiro. However they are destined for this rb powered car. and... Here is the s13 upper pillow ball that I started with. Here is the upper plate that I made to adapt the z31 stock upper mounting points to the spherical bearing (pillow ball). Took me about 1/2 hour to make. I was very pressed for time tonight between actual work and "my work" Here is one completed upper mount with the stance rear upper pillow ball mounted to the plates that I made. and... A preview of good stuff to come...

Figured that this should be posted up here. So I ripped the suspension from the SS today... I had one T strut and one N/A. So I did a comparison for reference sake. The Serial Nine adapters will work with N/A and Turbo strut tubes. First we have a N/A tube. Notice the diameter is the same throughout the entire length. Next we have a Turbo tube. There is a diameter transition 30mm from the cast knuckle. The transition is 5mm tall and flares out 3mm. Here is the N/A tube (on left) next to the Turbo tube(on right). Ok, so here are the goods... N/A tubes have an OD (outside diameter) of 51mm and a ID (inside diameter) of 46mm at the thread area. There is a small step in ID below the threaded area, but I don't have a tool to measure that far in. Turbo tubes are 51mm OD and have a diameter transition 30mm from the cast knuckle. The transition is 5mm tall and flares out 3mm bringing the OD to 54mm the rest of the way to the top. The ID at the threads is 50mm, again there is a step below the threads that I can't measure currently. Ok, So I finally cut the tubes up. I measured out 30mm from the base of the tube. Marked the cut line with a silver sharpie. (easier to see). You do not have to leave 30mm, how much is left of the original strut tube will determine the maximum low height that you can go. I will be milling the tube down to closer to 5mm of OE tube sticking out of the knuckle. Next I placed the tubes in a vice and started cutting them. Once you get almost all the way through the tube you should put something over the spindle thread area and bearing race area. I also placed a cardboard box with some crumpled up paper bags and pipe insulation under the spindle, so that when it falls it does not marr up the threads for the bearing retainer nut. After you cut the tubes you will want to clean up the burrs left on the inside diameter and outside diameter. You will end up with something like this when you are done cutting the tubes. The next step will be to grind the casting nub off of the base of the strut tube. Just so that it is level with the rest of the base of the tube. I did a small test fit of the S9 adapters and they will need to be pressed on, or hammered in with a block of wood or a dead blow mallet.

Here is the s13 upper pillow ball that I started with. Here is the upper plate that I made to adapt the z31 stock upper mounting points to the spherical bearing (pillow ball). Took me about 1/2 hour to make. I was very pressed for time tonight between actual work and "my work" Here is one completed upper mount with the stance rear upper pillow ball mounted to the plates that I made.

So here are the coil overs that I bought a while ago. They are Stance GR+ 3 Way's. Right now the spring that are on the coil overs are rated at 9k front and 7k rear. I have a set of 12k for the fronts and 10k for the rears on the way. I am making rear upper mounts and lower sleeves so that nothing on the body needs to be modified and ghetto washers are not utilized. Max low and high should be measured by the end of the weekend.

Now you just have to get used to doing 100km/h everywhere. Looking good! Did you call me the other day?

Cool, Welcome to the pack! Ron is the man, he has been helping me out all the time with anything Wolf related, and many other things.

A good friend of mine is putting down 453whp with a 3076r at 15psi on a 25det. For a 26 with a 42r, you should be putting down way more than what you are.

All Z31 transmissions bolt into Z31's. No modifications needed. No matter if it is 2+2 or not. The only difference is the length of the driveshaft, the transmission mount and the output yoke. It is more work to install a z32 transmission than a z31 trans. Meh, it can be done, but you are going to have to search for the answers. They are on this website. There is no reason to have it posted in multiple threads.

Yea, no money... How bout you come down here for a track day or meet?

How did you get that paint off of it? Obvioulsy I didn't try very hard. Does everything work properly?

LOL, you know... Slammed to the pavement! I can't wait to see it this summer.

Where is the "hard parked" picture?