Racinjitter

LOL, Listen to Careless... He is still rebuilding after a couple broken studs. FYI, Most of the time when removing the manifolds/turbo the studs break either in the manifold or in the head.

Try to disconnect it from the crossover pipe instead? IIRC I just used a gear wrench and a 1/4" drive ratchet (watch out for busted knuckles).

You mean the RB30DE project... right?

You can get the turbo off with the engine still installed. I have done it numerous times now. I just removed the turbo with the drivers side manifold. It is a lot of work though. You could make your own tools to remove the turbo->manifold nuts though.

One of my co-workers plays WOW with you? Or at least someone who used to own that car. That is a BADA55 pic! Congrats! Are you using a 2 step, or does your car normally shoot fireballs? Mine has turned into a fireball cannon lately.

I will try to duplicate the issue when I am running the wolf ecu. That way all of the data can be recorded. I am pretty sure it was the igniter though. I am pretty sure the MAF doesn't max out with the stock turbo. IIRC they can meter enough air for 350whp and the stock turbo will max out between 300-325 whp. My rb25det is completely stock including the turbo. The only things aftermarket are the FMIC and exhaust. Also The most boost I ran is 14.5 psi. When the issue first occurred I was running stock boost and had just washed the car. However after a few weeks of not driving it, I went for a long drive (very spirited) ~100 miles and a few miles away from home it would cut out sporadically. I then suspected the ingiter and isolated it from the coil cover with rubber feet. The issue has not returned. When I replaced the spark plugs down in Branson Z fest, I noticed that the coil harness ground eye lit contact area on the head was very corroded. I cleaned it then. When I changed the spark plugs I changed brands also. I went from NGK to ac delco spark plugs. My engine did not like NGK's for some odd reason. When I bought the engine it had HKS spark plugs, but I never started the car with them. I know who I can contact to fully diagnose this issue though... Motohiro Matsumura will know what to do. E-mail is sent. (I wish I could speak japanese) His english is hard to understand sometimes.

Is your engine a s1? If so I would suspect the igniter. They seem to get hot and just shut down for a second. Mine did that a few times before insulated it with rubber feet. It has not messed up since then. You also may want to check out the ground wire that comes off of the coil harness and bolts to the valley in the head. Corrosion between the head and the connector is pretty common and will cause things like this. As for getting out of the hole... Clutches are cheaper than drivetrain hard parts. I have ben experimenting with different laubch rpm's with my car. So far launching a 3500 yeild me a 2.10 60' time. I also feather my clutch though. I completely agree, rb's dont make torque. I am going to the track again tomorrow. I have to get a 1.9 60' and a 12 second run before the season is over.

Yep, that is complete. Pretty much everyone in the states wants the 25/26 due to the capability of the stock parts. I have seen rb25det full swaps go for 1400, but that is for an automatic transmission. Normally just the rb25det engine goes for 800-1400.

An rb20det full swap usually goes for about 1100 USD.

What offset do you want. There are a lot of choices for wheels with a +15 to 0 offset in a 17x9, for relatively inexpensive spending.

Wow that is simply amazing. I have never seen a cylinder like that before.

Or a 2wd pathfinder vg30e/vg33e tranny, or 2wd pickup vg30e/vg33e tranny. They are all the same.

This is great information guys! I pretty much gave up after buying 2 different usb to serial adapters. Maybe I will try again. Thanks for the info!

LOL!!! That bolt is there so that you break the head because you know "you have all the bolts out" ... I think it is just there to seal the water/oil passage right by there. BTW I am glad you asked these questions, now I need to install that bolt.

Ok, I am not too sure if I answered your question completely Raff... If you are looking at the head, the coolant passages near the front and rear of the head will be about 1cm long and 5mm wide in an egg shape (on a W series). On an A/B series engine the coolant passages will be a circle and will be about 5mm diameter. Does this answer your question a little better?

Nissan did some funny stuff right about that time for the Z31's... Some of the Z31's got all of the goodies where as some still received the a/b engine. The 4/87 date for the W series engines is fuzzy. Some cars got them some did not. I know that in 9/87 (my black car) got the W series. The easiest way to find out is to look at the block by where the head mates up to the deck on the passenger back side and there will be a a/b/w stamping there. I am uploading some pics right now of one of my A engines...

Yes, answered in the other thread. They made the W series engines from 4/87 and on. Yes, answered here...

This is getting complicated... you only needed one thread. Your engine is a A/B series engine. A vg33 is a W series engine. Your heads will not work on the W series engine. You can swap the cams over to the vg33 though. You may need to change the crank timing belt gear also. Your crank pulley will not work on a vg33. Which makes your accessories not work either. Unless you make your own pulleys for the a/c ps water pump and alternator. Yours are a V belt drive (not all but some) I cant remember which are V belt drive. And the vg33 has serp belt style belts.

The pistons make the difference in the CR. That is it. Yes, one block is better than the others. The W series engine are better, they have enlarged coolant passages in the heads and block. Also the wrist pins are full floating and the crank is different by having the "long snout". You cant just bolt all of your stuff onto a vg33. There are a lot of differences that will need to be changed to make it work.

you are going to need a 84-86T engine. It will have the same CR and everything will bolt up. A 4/87+ engine will be a w series and the crank is different. Also the CR will be different.

:mparty:Whoa! HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!

You will not be able to fit the rear turbo into a LHD Z31. Soooo with that said you will have to convert to single turbo or make some new exhaust manifolds. The reason for this is the steering I shaft will be interfering with the entire rear turbo. The rb26 wil be the most expensive swap to install into a Z31. Here is a link as to what crossmember will be needed or modified. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=119145

Use a 3/8" extension for a ratchet, put it on top of the spark plug boot and push on it.

yep. I sure do... http://www.nismoparts.com/catalog/?section=821

LOL, the first part is the EGR control solenoid. The second part is the boost sensor line, the boost sensor is the part on the drivers inner fender that the vacuum line is connected to. The third part is the AICV, it is basically the part that keeps a steady idle. Lemme see if I can find a picture of a POV still on a stock vg30et. Ok I found one, but the intake has been modified a little. But the POV is still mocated where they are supposed to be from the factory. The POV is circled in this picture. I didnt see a BOV, so you probably dont have one. You can install one as stated before.