Racinjitter

I did finish up the welding on them today. I used 1/4" plate steel and welded in 15mm x 40mm rectangle onto the front and back of the spindle. I also made a wedge to fit in between the caliper upright and the S9 adapter. Rough measurement of the wedge before I ground it down on one side is 20mm x 15mm.

BTW Zmanco, your link is all jacked up... Here is the correct link. http://www.midwestzfest.com/

I am starting to plan a mini vacation around this event!

Your truck looks like it got into a fight, and you punched it in the eye. LOL. Good Job! This was much faster than the Z swap!

LULZ, dunno what it is for... It is just my cheapo for the home. I think it has rock hard AB's?

SoI finally got around to measuring the rb25 CAS wheel. It is 1.967" or ~50mm.

Nioce! Isn't the valve covers supposed to be leaning towards the drivers side? I am sure you will have it ironed out by monday. You are right, the skyline wheels look really good on there!

The vg30de(tt) trans will not directly work. But it can be made to work IIRC. Just replace with another z31 auto. Or better yet, its time for a manual swap!

Looks like I have been bugging someone? LOL

So there is a defined step in diameter about 6mm from the base of the knuckle where the strut tube is inserted. With the saw blade that I was using, if I cut right at the step, that would give me .5mm less leaving me with 5.5mm on the knuckle. So that is what I did. Then I ground down the knucle so that the S9 adapter sits level on the knuckle. You can see a small gap between the adapter and the knuckle. This is not good. Here they are gound down, and level with the knuckle. Next I tacked them up, and welded them all together. It is a PITA to weld in between the tube and the upright for the backing plate/caliper bracket stays. But I found an extended collett for the welder and did it up, breaking the collett in the process. I still have to drill for the remote damper ajdusters, and at that time I will be gussetting the tube to the knuckle. I want to make sure that it stays in one piece. (It will hold up no problems, but I am thinking overkill).

Ok, So I finally cut the tubes up. I measured out 30mm from the base of the tube. Marked the cut line with a silver sharpie. (easier to see). You do not have to leave 30mm, how much is left of the original strut tube will determine the maximum low height that you can go. I will be milling the tube down to closer to 5mm of OE tube sticking out of the knuckle. Next I placed the tubes in a vice and started cutting them. Once you get almost all the way through the tube you should put something over the spindle thread area and bearing race area. I also placed a cardboard box with some crumpled up paper bags and pipe insulation under the spindle, so that when it falls it does not marr up the threads for the bearing retainer nut. After you cut the tubes you will want to clean up the burrs left on the inside diameter and outside diameter. You will end up with something like this when you are done cutting the tubes. The next step will be to grind the casting nub off of the base of the strut tube. Just so that it is level with the rest of the base of the tube. I did a small test fit of the S9 adapters and they will need to be pressed on, or hammered in with a block of wood or a dead blow mallet.

You want to measure one of the rb30 rods? I can get you measurements of the vg30e rods.

Here are some more pics. Been a long time, still no progress. But there are bunches of new parts arriving by the truck load... My truck that is. I recently acquired a complete s13 rear subframe and will be installing it slowly. I need to stop being lazy and go see Butter for some parts that he has been holding onto for me. Also picked up some ARP headstuds for the 25, while the 30 is at the machine shop. In that same trip I ended up with some 1000cc injectors and an aftermarket fuel rail. (Hopefully the 25 fuel rail will mount up to a 26 intake) I wont know until the weekend after christmas though. Now all I need for the 25 to make 500whp is an external wastegate and a good tune. Got some more new stuff. Now to get my ass in gear and put stuff together. So I ripped the suspension from the SS today... I had one T strut and one N/A. So I did a comparison for reference sake. The Serial Nine adapters will work with N/A and Turbo strut tubes. First we have a N/A tube. Notice the diameter is the same throughout the entire length. Next we have a Turbo tube. There is a diameter transition 30mm from the cast knuckle. The transition is 5mm tall and flares out 3mm. Here is the N/A tube (on left) next to the Turbo tube(on right). Ok, so here are the goods... N/A tubes have an OD (outside diameter) of 51mm and a ID (inside diameter) of 46mm at the thread area. There is a small step in ID below the threaded area, but I don't have a tool to measure that far in. Turbo tubes are 51mm OD and have a diameter transition 30mm from the cast knuckle. The transition is 5mm tall and flares out 3mm bringing the OD to 54mm the rest of the way to the top. The ID at the threads is 50mm, again there is a step below the threads that I can't measure currently.

Yes the front cable is a different part number than both of the back cables. The back cables are also different part numbers. Use the fiche to get your part numbers. http://z31.com/fiche/

better than you think. There are guys in the 9's and maybe 8's with the r200.

^ Thank you Xenon! I was starting to get angry by all of the misinformation in this thread. But you Sir, have revived it! But to the OP, you will never find a 2 seater turbo RHD AE. Unless it was built to mirror an AE.

^ +1, check out http://www.z31parts.com. The owner of that site can direct you to a good place to get your heads ported and polished. There are a lot of parts out there, but it takes some searching. No performance "bolt on" heads are available anymore.

Don't worry, I will measure my rb25 CAS wheel this weekend. My calipers are in my truck awaiting arrival of the discombobulated CAS.

There are online FSM's for the z31 now. Take a gander at this site http://xenonzcar.com/, and here is the direct link to the z31 FSM section http://www.xenonz31.com/reference.html. The FSM is a much better resource than the haynes manual.

Sorry to see it go. GLWS!

I agree with Evan, I have never hooked up the VSS signal wire to the ECU. I have never had a problem in regards to this either. I have taken the vehicle above 160mph. SLD is a waste of money, IMO. Cut the yellow with a green tracer going to the ecu. Careless, The Z31 ecu is speed limited, but as far as I know it doesn't shut the vehicle down, it pulls spark or fuel (I can't remember which). So you can maintain a maximum threshold speed. And it is the purple wire on the Z31 going to the ecu.

Further, you will need an 4/87+ Z31 turbo only. All previous turbo transmissions were the weak 90a (t5) transmissions. And to add the Nissan hard body pickup and pathfinder 2wd with a vg30e will also work. They are the fs5r30a variant. You will still need to swap out the bell housings.

Make sure you replace the CHTS sub harness when you change the CHTS. (CHTS = Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor)

IIRC when I pulled the mani off of the 87 in the jy, all I did was unbolt the mani, remove the ac mount, remove the front brace for the engine mount, move the steering rack over to the drivers side and remove all of the oil/coolant feeds for the turbo from the engine. It took me about 2 hours with breaks, and a tool run.

Yes, Nissan has a service campaign with fuel injectors on the VG30e(t) engines. Yes, there was fires. No it wasnt the injector seals. It was the fuel hoses going to the fuel injectors. The kit does consist of 2 injector sub harness' taking your "sequential" injection to batch injection. Seals and possibly fuel injectors and hoses. The injector housings were cracking at one point also. The dealership has to order these parts, and install them. Unless you know someone. They can look up to see if you car has the service campaign completed in their system. Raff, since you have all new hardware... Why dont you just pull the turbo with the drivers side manifold? Your car still has the side feed injectors, correct? Try this...http://www.z31parts.com/engineparts.html. You wont need the top o rings or the spacer, but there are the seals. I could look up the actual part number... But here is a link to the fiche page with injector part numbers. http://z31.com/fiche/2/o03.gif. Here is a link to the fiche alone. http://z31.com/fiche/. Also here is a link to the 87 recalls/campaigns. http://z31.com/repairs/rt/recall.87.shtml