Racinjitter

Could your igniter be going bad?

Or stub axles that were breaking?

Or stub axles that were breaking?

From time to time they seem to pop up.... I also got mine from careless. AKWIKZ, didn't you have a container of them shipped over not too long ago?

I remember you being over a second faster than me in the 1/8th mile:eek:.... But I don't remember the time. Were you running a 3.7 or a 3.54? I remember you changed it that morning though:lol:

http://www.z31performance.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2536 The info is in there, just scroll down to read kennedy's posts. Also rfs5r30a is the same exact internals as 87-89 z31t fs5r30a and rb25det rfs5r30a.

fs5r30a. That is the strongest bolt in tranny made for a vg30e/t

Pretty much. The only thing that might be needed is to have a sleeve made for the 10mm ring gear bolts, as these are made for the 12mm bolt ring gears. Or you can tap your ring gear?

Freaking awesome! I cant wait to see what she'll do this time around!

Ughhhh, yea......*picks up jaw from floor* Rob you make me jealous! Congrats!!!!

Or this..... http://88hybrid.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7574

I thought that the powerbrute's were NLA?

Raff, You know I am down! Rb30/25 parts for me!!! Unless I come across a rb26 head... cheap?

The FSM says for a series 1 rb25det it is 42 psi. I think the general rule of thumb for boost vs psi is 1:1. Meaning that for every psi above atmosphere you will raise the fuel pressure 1 psi. So 42 base fuel pressure +20 psi = 62psi fuel pressure. Does this sound correct?

My engine was completely stock. No modifications at all.

Yea, I was running 13.5 psi at the track. I did run it at 15 for a little while, then backed it down. My boost without a boost controller was 10psi. When I am messing around I run 13.5 psi (which is most of the time). I couldn't go lower than 10 psi if I wanted to. Also I know of another rb25 locally running 15psi all the time, for 2 years now. That car dyno'd at 305whp and 315wtq. I think it really depends on how well your engine was maintained before you bought it. My engine only has 26,000 miles on it right now. I have heard that the turbine likes to come apart at 14psi though.

Therein lies the problem. No US destined car was RHD... No US car had a RB... No US 200zr. Not many 200ZR's were made. Finding parts for one is like a needle in a haystack. If you can find all of the parts to do the swap, you must be rich and have a lot of time on your hands. I found most of the parts to do the swap, however the lowest used price front crossmember I found was 600 USD! Then you would have to find the 200ZR engine mount brackets, NLA from nissan. 200 used from a wrecked car. Almost all parts from the 200zr have been long since discontinued. It was easier to make parts for the swap, than to find existing parts. How many 200zr's have you seen? I am not trying to be a smarta**, I really wonder. But if you can source these parts, pm me!

I hope Mack at mckinney can provide a few things for us Z31'ers... I dealt with him off an on about my swap. He has a great understanding of rb's and information. There isnt much of a market for z31's though, most of us are poor and or cheap.

You will be much happier with the rb25... That and its only 300 more.

I wish I could go, but 30+ hours of driving would kill me. Maybe next year?

Location; Ubly Dragway, Ubly, Mi Track/Metering Device: 1/4mile Weather/Lane Conditions: 40*f Reaction Time: 60 Foot Time: 2.066 1/8th Mile Time: 8.754 1/4 Mile Time: 13.551 Trap Speed: 104.121mph Vehicle Details Chassis/Year: 1988 300zx GLL Brief Engine Description: Stock RB25DET treadstone fmic, 3" turbo back exhaust magnaflow muffler. Brief Suspension Description: 3ZR type 1 springs, poly diff mount, poly crossmember mounts Additional Power Adders: None Peak Positive Pressure (PSI): 13.5psi Transmission Type: stock r30a Nismo solid hub clutch disc Final Drive Ratio: 3.70:1 Tire Size: 275/35R18 Tire Model/Compound: Yokohama AVS Sports 180 compound Estimated/Tested Wheel Horsepower: est 250-300whp Estimated/Tested Vehicle Weight: est 3000-3300 lbs. This is the best I have on paper, more to come very soon.

Yes, there are spade connectors on the back of the Autometer speedos, with the vss wires, I wired them into my existing wiring in the vehicle and some where inside the instrument panel, those two wires are joined and come out as one wire that connects to the back of the guage? The guage has a ground wire that was used for ground. I didnt look to far into the wiring diagrams for my car, it was just trial and error.

How much for the front hubs and that hood strut shipped to 48043?

Yea, not anymore though. I was testing the pressure drop across the intercooler. If you look in the pic you can see the middle one is working and the top one is not working. p.s. Don't drink and drive!

Ouch!!! As long as everyone is alright that is all that matters. I am sorry to see that your car is wrecked. I think they meant to put the gauges in like this... All you needed for tools is a 10mm, a phillips screwdriver and a dremel.