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clocker last won the day on April 1 2016

clocker had the most liked content!

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About clocker

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    Mile High Colorado

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  1. That's some very nice work- having grafted in a different dash myself, I can appreciate the endless details involved. I would say that the center console gauge panel is the least finished part, not that it looks bad but an OEM look would have some sort of bezel surrounding it.
  2. clocker


    No, we never even considered the original dash, that thing weighs a ton (as does the OEM HVAC unit). We used the 2nd gen dash and HVAC because they are cheap, readily available and suitably sized.. Thanks, "perfect" is a high bar to clear. It's been a while since I've posted but the Z has not been idle. We converted to a Holley style EFI system- it looks like a 4 barrel but is a self contained injection unit- and she's been in almost daily use since then. Unfortunately, my health took a dramatic turn for the worse and I have been unable to do anything car rel
  3. Well, she survived the winter just fine and everything continues to work. The only real issues we've had are all carb related and we finally decided that this worn out old Holley just wasn't gonna cut it, so we got this: It's a FI Tech fuel injected throttle body with self contained ECU...https://www.summitracing.com/parts/FIF-30003. Install is set for Saturday, we've been gathering parts and prepping for the last few weeks...it should be pretty simple. We had to remove the headers to get an O2 sensor bung welded on and will have to replace the low pressure fuel pump and ho
  4. clocker


    Sigfrid spent some time yesterday changing the rake of the seatbase with spacers, we both felt the front was a little high and the rear too low. We couldn't go lower up front, so he added spacers in the back...and here's a top tip (useful even with stock seats) to make your life easier- Replace the rear mounting bolts with studs. Instead of fumbling around under the seat trying to fish bolts through the carpet, studs allow you to just drop the seat onto studs, install the front bolts (which are far more accessible) then run nuts down the studs and viola!-, Bob's your uncle. Granted, seat
  5. clocker


    Well, "the summit" may be boring but at least we can sit in comfort now... Miata seats and man, we got a screamin deal...$50 for the pair. The black cloth is a much nicer and fits the interior design well and the slightly smaller size means we have full slider travel and better headroom. The seat mount points in our 280 are 13" apart, the mount points on the seat are 13 3/8" apart and frankly, it would have been easier if the difference had been greater but about 4 hours of fettling got them installed. Sadly it was late when we finished and our all black interior photographs p
  6. clocker


    That's an interesting/clever solution, so thanks, Trevor. I had kinda fixated on my original idea and this got me thinking more creatively, so even if I don't use the concept, at least it made me think about it differently. I've spent time lately looking for seats to replace the Prelude units that Sigfrid just doesn't like. Hoping to set up some meets on Sat. to look at some Miata black cloth chairs and maybe some black leather S2000 seats. I've examined Miata parts before and they appear easy to mount- and most importantly, they'll fit (and I prefer cloth to leather) so they are
  7. Audi S4 wheel. Horn buttons work and turn signals cancel.
  8. clocker


    Final part of the "Going Keyless" project complete. Almost... External lock cylinder was replaced with a Bulgin momentary switch which operates a popper solenoid to unlock the car. The battery has been fitted with a wireless cutoff switch, so a blip of the keyfob and the whole car is dead (except for the headunit which has a bypass so it doesn't lose settings all the time). Approach the locked car, hit the fob, car goes live- including the external buttons, which can now unlock the door. There is no ignition barrel either, so no keys required at all anymore. Why is it "al
  9. Progress has been fitful since the last update, but that's mainly due to the fact that Ratchet has been driven a lot and pretty much everything works. Most of our effort has gone towards chasing down the random creaks/rattles/glitches that only show up after some use and we've pretty much got her locked down finally. On my theoretical wish list is a revamp of the electrical system. It all works but I can see several methods to clean up the install and eliminate some unneeded complexity and we are contemplating a return to FI, but only with an aftermarket ECU, so that would be a big cha
  10. clocker


    Sorry, no idea. I never intended to use ANY of the stock wiring or devices, so I am unfamiliar with how the wiper is supposed to work originally. IIRC, a lot of the delay circuitry is actually in the Lexus switch and without it, I don't see how the Datsun switch could make it fully functional. @Greeko...not sure. I do know they're heavy and I've never cottoned to them much. I think Sigfrid got them from Tire Rack, but it's been so long I can't remember. Most of my car energy has been lavished on the RX7 this summer, but the Z has been running so well our neglect hasn't been
  11. Unscrew your brake light switch and see if it fits. Those things are like 2 bucks at Rock Auto.
  12. clocker


    Work has continued, albeit slowly. Installed a revamped gauge cluster- water and oil are VDOs under Miata dials and needles and to heighten the Christmassy effect, the small gauges got red needles... Fitted a BMW ebrake handle cover and snood...now the button needs attention: Finally fitted the Kia hatch release mechanism: And the headlight covers: She is functionally complete and runs beautifully. I'm in love.
  13. clocker


    The modded heater core was installed and is leak free, so my interior punchlist is down to three items. -Still need a hatch release lever/handle/knob/whatever. -Find a timed relay for the rear window defrost. Most of the wiring is in place (the Miata heater control panel has a switch for defrost), I just need the relay. -Get the turn signals to self cancel. For no particular reason, I started with #3. This will be the fifth attempt at the steering wheel>switchgear interface, which has proven to be far more finicky than expected. The problem is the geometry of
  14. Looks totally doable. Probably the simplest path is to start with an aftermarket adaptor hub (like a Momo). Depending on how you want the wheel to sit, you may use the new hub as is or if that puts the wheel too close, it may need modification (basically, removing the "crush zone" and using just the splined bottom section. Lathe access would be handy if that's the case. Don't see any reason the Lucas horn button couldn't be used.
  15. As long as that center part unbolts, you're in pretty good shape. Can we see a pic of the wheel center with that part removed?
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