240zip

This makes me sick ... http://melbourne.craigslist.com.au/car/485931210.html 1998 Nissan Skyline GT R34, COUPE, - $7500 AUD

I'm looking at a 1978 Datsun 280Z with a L28ET motor and 5-speed manual transmission (original to the 280Z). The car has 82k miles on it with the original drivetrain. The turbo is upgraded to one from a 1987 300ZX and an intercooler was added. The ECU is stock. According to the owner, the engine starts up every time and runs strong after warming up. The owner recently replaced the spark plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, and fuel pressure regulator. The passenger side door is slightly rusted and the frame rails are a little rusted as well though there isn't a significant amount of rust in any given area of the vehicle. I already own a 240Z with a stock 2.4L and was interested in L28ET upgrade. I could get the above set-up for around $1K. What are people opinions on the price? Anything to look for when checking out the car? I know that when swaping a L28ET into a 240Z you need to replace the fuel tank and many other components so having one already in a 280Z and running seems to have its advantages.

I believe the LEngine.exe application has errors, but perhaps folks can help. L28 (F54) block, .5mm overbore, flattop pistons, std gasket, E31 head, L28 rods, and L28 crank. It claims I have a CR of 10.32:1 ... but it also claims I have a deck height of .030" (mine appears to be -.020"). Given I drive this car on weekends and infrequently, using 91 octane gas is no issue. I'm also OK with grabbing some aviation gas if that's needed. I'm just worried that I'm looking at an 11:1 CR or something like that with my set-up. I'm at 5,400 feet (Colorado), so I've been told a 11:1 CR is like a 10:1 CR at sea-level. Perhaps this is also another myth from my time spent on the ZCAR forum. From what little I know about quench, it seems I should have a decent set-up with a nice 'squish', but the CR is of great concern. If I was doing this from scratch, I'd likely select a different head / block combo, but all the work has already been done. I'm just at the assembly point now. I just want to see if I'm totally screwed.

I have a L28 F54 block that's been bored .5mm over in which I installed flat top pistons. I've searched the forum and it appears this set-up results in the pistons protruding above the deck .021". I measured my #1 and #6 pistons at TDC and they were indeed .020" above the deck. I have a NAPA (Victor) head gasket on order. I believe it's a 1.6mm thickness gasket. The head being used is an E31 head. As far as I can tell, it was never shaved, but has been completely rebuilt. I'm using ARP bolts (main, rod, head). Any recommendations on gaskets? The set-up is what I'd term a mild street engine. Headers, Triple 42DCOE-8 Webers, moderate cam, etc.

What are peoples opinion of various engine management system options for the SR20DET? This would assume a SR20DET running less than 20psi tuned for 91 octane gas. I've been leaning towards the FC Commander set-up. I'd like a 'set-it-and-go' arrangement.

Are there any individuals / shops in Colorado who've done a RB swap?

Anyone have a phone number or website for this "Venus-Motorsport" ?

I called Delta Cams, they have a 270 / .44 lift and a 280 / .45 lift re-grind for $55 + $3.75*12 to re-do the cam followers (rockers). MSA charges $60 for a set of 12 lash pads. So the price for the re-grind, 12 cam followers, and the lashpads comes to $160. Delta Cams stated the 280 grind is the most popular street set-up and that I should use the OEM cam from my E88 or the one currently in my E31. He stated aftermarket cams are not as durable. So ... it's down to 270 verses 280!

First - Thanks for the help thus far. To recap - I have a 2.8L block with .5mm over flat top pistons and an E31 head with the stock cam. Given I want to achieve 160 RWHP with a set of 42DCOE-8 webers and a header / 2.5" exhaust, it's clear I need a hotter cam. My engine is not yet assembled. The short block is rebuilt and the E31 head was rebuilt with a stock cam. I'm looking at two cam grinds: .480 Lift, 280 duration (232 at .050) .460 Lift, 270 duration (230 at .050) CR is 10.3 to 1. I want max power around 5000 RPM 1. what grind do people recommend? 2. given my E31 is already rebuilt with better-than-stock springs, what else to I need to replace when swaping out the cam? 3. I have a used cam from an E88 and one new in the box from Federal Mogul. Which one should I use. I heard Nissan cams were forged and simply incredible whereas non-Nissan cams were not. Or should I just get a new cam (Isky sells them for about $170).

I'm sort of bummed that I have these two E31 heads (one rebuilt), an E88 head, and I think I tossed the stock head that come with the 1980 ZX 2.8L block. The more I read about the E31 heads, the more it seems that it's not such a great head without a great deal of work.

Concerning the ARP studs - already have them. The short block and the head are done. The E31 head is rebuilt - unfortunately all stock. I have another E31 head that I could (in theory) rebuild with a hotter cam, larger valves, and a mild street port / polish. Concerning the pistons - they are flat-tops, .5mm over. Concerning the rods - they are ones that came with the 280ZX 2.8L block.

I'm the owner of a stock 240Z. I read the threads on the 3.1 Stoker, 2.8L Turbo, and some comments on the 2.8L NA set-ups. It seems for a limited investment, that 1HP per cu. inch is a reasonable expectation. I'd like to get 160 RWHP from my car. My planned set-up is as follows (currently unassembled) 2.8L ZX Block (rebuilt with ARP bolts) E31 head (rebuilt with stock - - cam) 42DCOE-8 Triple Webers (cheap local find - rebuilt) My plan is to add Arizona Z's 6 into 1 headers, a 2.5" exhaust with a 18" resonator and a turbo exhaust. While it doesn't add to HP, my plans are to lighten the flywheel to something like 14 lbs. I have a 1980 ZX five speed transmission, a R200 (3.7) LSD unit from a 1989 300ZX turbo, the CV shaft conversion adaptor, and the 300ZX turbo half shafts. The suspension was completely re-done with new struts, springs, sway bars, bushings, bearings, etc. The brakes were upgraded to cross-drilled rotors and the 4-piston MSA calipers upfront. The rear brakes are stock, but newly rebuilt. The master cylinder is from the ZX. Current plans call for upgrading the radiator to either an aluminum or at least a 4-row version. I have an electric fuel pump and a Filter King fuel filter / regulator. I have a Pertronix Ignitor set-up. All the smog items are going to be removed (no emissions in my county). Right now the CR for this build-up is about 10.3 to 1. That's due to a .5mm over bore. Do you think I can achieve my goal of 160 RWHP? Do people have any suggestions? My goal is a streetable, fun-to-drive weekend car. I know a stroker will make more and I also know that a turbo makes more for less, but I already have nearly all the components that I've manage to collect over the years.

How come I don't see this message tool in the classified (buy / sell) section of the forum?