240zip

I'm replacing the OEM harmonic balancer. The ATI makes a couple of different harmonic balancers (different weights, different diameters) http://www.atiracing.com/products/dampers/charts/damnissan.htm 917801 is 5.45lbs and 7.074" diameter 918040 is 3.9lbs and 6.325" diameter This is for a L28ET build. We're going to be using a SDS (Simple Digital Systems EMS) with crank ignition. So magnets will be added to the balancer. Any recommendation on which balancer to go with? Should we forego the ATI altogether?

We did an install of the Wizard Cooling Performance Radiator into our 240Z. 2.9L (overbored 2.8L) with E31 head and flat top pistons. Nice construction. https://wizardcooling.com/1970-1973-datsun-240z-aluminum-radiator/

Has anyone used the above Tach Adapter with SDS? I have the EM5-6F (from SDS) for 240Z turbo swap.

I was torn between the R200CLSD and the R180 LSD conversion from a WRX STi. For my set-up ... a 240Z with a 2.8L (E31 & flat tops) and triple webers ... the R180 route was the way to go. It was easier and lighter. I used John Coffey's stub axles and it was a simple bolt in. If I look at the cost of the cost of the R180, the stub axles, and the cost of rebuilding the 1/2 axles professionally ... it was about $1,000. So the R200 at $1000 on eBay seems like a decent deal. The R180 I have was 3.7 as well. If I were building a higher output turbo motor set-up ... I'd consider the R200 and also go with a CV conversion.

When putting a L28ET into a 240Z chassis - does the new (swapped) engine use a cable throttle or does it use the old bell-crank rod and linkage setup?

cleaned in-box

I ended up going with the non-vented hood. I now have an OEM NOS 280Z hood that's going to be sold off. Hopefully someone in the Colorado area can use one. I don't want to ship this.

we used a frame jig.

Got the complete package of reproduced rubber parts from Steve and they're all top notch and nicely labeled in their individual packages. I highly recommend these.

If you sold a two-piece JDM gnose kit for $600, someone got a steal.

Here you go ... and it's 10% off http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt46936/

I didn't mean to imply that I wasn't going to use them. I just thought the MSA vents were cool. Haven't decided on which direction I'll go just yet.

The tabco piece is smaller than what I have. If it works for you then great. I'll post my pieces for sale in a few days in the classified section

I did email you

I saw that Motorsport Auto hood vent 'solution'. I also have OEM (new) vents that came with the hood. Based on the pictures (thanks) I'll likely go with the 280Z hood. I like that MSA vent. It's a bit more of a modern look.

I understand they are interchangeable. Is there any reason you would NOT want to put the 280Z hood on a 240Z that's having a turbo (280ZXT) swap?

I was specifically interested in a 280Z hood on a 240Z. I didn't see any discussions specific to that topic. Saw lots on the factor hood scoop option for the 1973 240Z. I also looked at the magazine. I've seen the black hoods on the 240Zs (orange) but not the 280Z hood. Was just wondering why it wasn't more common.

I came into possession of an actual NOS Nissan OEM 280Z hood. It had sat in a storage shed in Pueblo, Colorado since 1986 and is still in the battleship gray primer with the Nissan part code and sticker on the underside. It does not appear to have ever been placed on a car. I'm considering putting it on my orange 240Z. I would paint the vents a satin black to match the front and rear spoiler on the car. My car is undergoing a turbo motor swap. With respect to this 280Z hood, I'm not sure if the vents are actually functional as I've never owned a 280Z. My other option is to try and fix my 240Z hood which just isn't working out. It's a bit rusty, has been worked on, and I think even with 20 hours of metal work will not be 1/2 the hood this OEM one is. I'm concerned about originality, but since I already swapped the motor, transmission, and differential - I kinda think that ship has sailed. Does any one have a picture of a 240Z (orange) with the 280Z hood for comparison? Any opinions: looks, functionality, etc.?

does the Arizona Z car set-up use the Lokar TC-1000HT 24" Hi-Tech Throttle Cable? I can't tell the length (24" or 36") What's the other piece on their website? Is it the Lokar SRK-4000 Stainless Steel Carburetor Bracket and Spring?

I was able to source one locally, thanks.

WTB: OEM 240Z hood (without the vents). Must be rust free and without damage. If anyone has a new OEM or aftermarket hood please email me. I have some rather rare parts (i.e. triple webers, race items) that I would be willing to trade.

Steve, any chance you've made extras of those rubber items that are not all spoken for?

The title says it. I got a 280ZX Turbo alternator and did the swap. I also bought the voltage regulator plug from MSA and carefully read the instructions. The car works fine ... except for some reason the headlights no longer work and my tach reads low. My set-up is a Mallory mechanical advance distributor with a Pertronix and MSD 6AL using their tach adapter. I was working before. Just prior to me swapping out the alternator the tach starting bouncing. Everyone said it's likely due to the twin fans on my radiator pulling too much on the 240Z electrical system. So I made the swap. The car seems to run much better, but now the tach only goes up to about 1500 RPM despite the engine revving much higher. Any idea would could have happened? I know doing a remote diagnostic on such a set-up is asking a great deal, but any pointers as to where to start would be great. Perhaps something simple I overlooked. The voltage regulator is completely removed from the circuit. Nothing was hardwired to it.

NM, I think (Tony) you mean a "eccentric/progressive cam on the throttle cable."

Tony, can you provide more details on the 'progressive cam' you mentioned? When I hear progressive cam I start thinking VTEC and I didn't really think that was an option for the L6.