zcarcrazy

I know many guys have swapped the ZX distributor for their points type 240Z units. I've swapped one into my '77 280, but I'm still running the stock ECU & EFI. I'm having a problem with the car after driving for a mile or two. It acts as if it's flooding. The more I press the accelerator, the closer it gets to choking off. I was just wondering if the module on the side of the distributor could be mis-communicating with the ECU. Has anyone tried this particular setup?

I'm digging the Green Hornet. I was always under the impression that you could not remove the stock ignition module located on the passenger kick panel. I have the 6A with the solid state coil and tach adapter, but I've not gotten to install everything yet. To the best of my knowledge, which is quite limited, you should be fine using the Blaster 2 coil with your stock ignition.

Here are some pictures of my P90 head for those that are interested. Thanks, again, for looking.

Is it complete (cam, rockers, springs, valves, etc.)? Do you have any pics? Let me know what shipping would be to 27834. Thanks.

That's precisely why I bought it in the first place. However, it's my understanding that placing it on a short block with dished pistons will actually decrease my compression ratio, thus yielding less power. Please, correct me if I'm wrong. I just feel that I would have to invest more money into a tightly budgeted project than I'm able to right now, just to make this head work. Whereas, if I were able to trade for an N42, I would be able to just bolt on my existing components and ride. Thanks for your input.

Hey guys. I'm looking for an N42 head that has been recently rebuilt, to trade for a freshly rebuilt P90. The P90 has not been bolted to a block since the rebuild. I, unfortunately, bought it before I got all of my ducks in a row. I wanted a good flowing, square exhaust port head, and it was available when I had the money. I'm not interested in adding a turbo, and at the present time I'm running the stock engine in my '77 280 (with dished pistons - to the best of my knowledge). I plan to keep the fuel injection, thus I thought the N42 would be my best bet. I just can't afford to buy one outright, and would love to trade this P90 if anyone with a comparable condition N42 is willing. Thanks for the consideration in advance.

He he he... wish I had seen this thread a week ago. I just got the rubber strips and felt strips for the door panels from Too Intense, but I realized that I don't have a stapler quite capable of installing these strips. I wasn't aware that they were held together by staples until last night. Does anyone have a good suggestion about how to install these?

I've been thinking about rewiring my Z. I'm hesitant to start because I'm not very experienced at soldering. But, after reading this thread, I've decided that I'm going to learn. I'm sure I can find plenty of little projects to practice on throughout the car before I take on any large wiring tasks. The info that I've read so far is invaluable. I would like to ask if anyone knows of a few good resourses that describe proper soldering techniques. I'm the guy that always ends up with a huge blob of solder on the end of the iron and not on the wire. I have a cheap soldering iron I picked up from somewhere, but I also have a decent Weller soldering gun that was a gift I received a few years back. I don't think I have ever heated it up. I'm looking forward to trying it out. I'm sure that with a lot of patience and a little practice (plus some detailed guidance) I'll be making some nice connections in no time. By the way, who are some good suppliers of wire, connectors, and other electrical supplies. I don't have anything close by that I would trust for quality supplies. Thanks for posting so much experience and info.

Does anyone know where to get "the squeegee part"? I don't know if it's something you could pick up at a local parts store, or if you have to order it from a special place.

Have you noticed whether your front wheel will clear the new battery box. I have a friend that is currently close to the same stage that you are. Fortunately, your car appears to be in much better shape than his. Your work looks good, BTW.

Yeah, I replaced the resistor packs (or dropping resistors) as well. I have noticed a cut, loose wire running down to the frame rail under the master cylinder. But I think that it is one of the wires that ran to the reservoir caps on the MC. I'm really stumped. I'm wondering whether the harness I'm using is from another year model. I had to take a pair of wires from the original harness and add them into the replacement. They plug in under the dash by the steering column, but I haven't traced the wires to find out where they end up. I'll beat my own head in if the problem is on the other end of those two wires. I know that one of the wires originates from the #12 terminal at the ECU. The other ties in to an existing wire. It does not have a terminal of it's own. I don't have my manual with me right now, so I don't know exactly what the #12 terminal runs to. I can check it later, though. Let me know how the megasquirt goes. I have a friend that raves about that setup. I may even decide to go that route.

I know that at least two of my injectors have 12V to both terminals. Here is a brief list of things that I have tried/replaced: ECU, wiring harness, cold-start valve, temp sensor, air regulator, AFM, TPS, thermo-time switch, FI/FP relay, fuel filter, & cleaning all terminals and connections that I can find that have anything to do with the FI. My problem started at idle. The car was idling to keep a weak battery charged. The engine acted as though it was running out of gas. The rpms went up about 300 or so & it just died. I haven't been able to get it running since. It spins freely and will try to start on starting fluid, but the injectors won't pulse.

Did you ever figure out what your problem was? I've been having the exact same problem with my '77. I've learned that at the connector from the wiring harness, (with the switch on) one pole has current and the other does not. My problem is that both poles on mine have current. This suggests a faulty ground somewhere. I've not been able to locate the bad connection. I've replaced almost every FI component & cleaned every ground source I can find. I still have had no luck. I'm about to take out a loan so that an expert can fix it. Any info I can get is much appreciated.