Kuro
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Posts posted by Kuro
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This rust is worrisome. Pull the front fender and check to be sure the upper frame horns are not rusted through.
(multiquote is not working for me)
Thanks, I'll check it tonight... although I'm not really sure what the upper frame horns are.... I'll look to see the extent of it though.
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Did you take off the lower valance entirely?
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Few things on the list that we haven't done yet but have the parts for:
Pallnet Fuel Rail
Xenon Air Dam
Weatherstripping (all around)
We were looking at the air dam tonight but I have some questions if anyone can help out - first off here's some pics of some of the parts of the body that need work - don't laugh!
The last couple of weeks we've just been cleaning up the engine bay a little, making sure all vacuum lines are connected or plugged, connectors are clean. Swapped out the egr manifold with a non-egr, non webbed intake. Removed stock exhaust manifold, put in headers and a nicer exhaust.
Got some nice wrap around spark plug cables so they don't have to go over the valve cover.
I had some issues with the turn signals which are now resolved, after a lot of tinkering around and testing, found out it was a connector that wasn't making a good connection, so we're all good there.
Bodywork that’s next on the list:
Blurry pic of engine bay
The carpet was already removed by previous owner, I took out all the other plastics inside (that are not in the pics).
Everything was checked here for the turn signals, my combo switch was bad, so the first thing we did was swap it out for another one. Problem was the the other one was from an older model and the connectors were different. My husband just swapped/soldered my combo switch wires to the other one and it works great.
Here's where my questions are right now. So we test fitted the Xenon Air Dam and I know in the pics it's sagging a little, it was just supported by a couple of clamps.
But I'm awaiting the arrival of a 240z bumper so that should fill in some of that empty space. What about the rest of it though...... looks like a big opening with nothing in it.
1. Is that the way it's supposed to look?
2. Am I supposed to put the little bottom grill back on?
3. Does the lower valance have to stay off with the air dam on? Reason I ask this is because the instructions say to remove it, but it seems like it would be a very good support for the air dam, so that it doesn't twist around when driving at super high speeds (lol). Has anyone left the lower valance on?
4. Are there any other "replacement" grills to make it look better, or is it ugly cause I have a stock radiator (lol again).
Also, just so it's known, I know there's a lot of work to be done before worrying about the air dam, but I want to put it on in the meantime anyway.
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What led you to the black connector on the passenger side?
The thread I referred to above in the link above and this post also was a path to follow.
http://forums.hybrid...post__p__560692
Since we had already checked everything else, and like I said, power was being supplied everywhere EXCEPT the wires to the signals themselves, something "common" had to be the culprit.
Fortunately, that connector is the "common" piece that routed the power to the signals and apparently the tach indicators also.
We would have found it next either way, since the next thing to do would have been to trace the wires from the hazard switch to the signals. Every one of those wires goes into this connector and out the other side (and though more connectors) before and after it gets separated to FL/FR/RL/RR.
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Ok guys problem resolved. The turn signals now work.
The problem was in the black connector that sits on the passenger side under the dash closest to the center console.
This thread helped also: http://forums.hybrid...-sticky-please/
I didn't have to do anything that the thread said except clean the connectors and make sure they had a tight fit. Although they didn't look corroded, I still cleaned them with electronic cleaner and hit it with a little sandpaper. I also closed up the female side connectors a little with a tiny screwdriver so that they made better contact. After that everything worked. Makes sense since I had no power to any of the lights at all, power was getting to the hazard switch, combo switch, flasher but not to signals or tach. I cleaned most of the other connectors under the dash, but I'm going to do the same for ALL of them. I cleaned one headlight connector in the same manner, and that headlight is now brighter then the other, so it definitely makes a difference.
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How was the following verified? "There's absolutely no power getting to any of the signals when the turn signals are engaged, but there is power when hazards are engaged."
Was a voltmeter used at the bulb socket to verify that +12 volts was present? From the wiring diagram it appears that +12 volts for these lights comes from the fuse panel. It therefore appears that the turn signal switch supplies a ground/return to the other side of the bulb sockets. With all the other lights that are not working it would seem that a ground/return is missing for these. Supply a temporary GOOD ground to the chassis from the switches to see if some lights come on. This assumes the wiring from the bulb socket to the cabin switches are OK. Electrical continuity from the bulb socket to the cabin switches can be checked with a Multi-Meter and long wire to the bulb socket.
Yep used a multimeter to check.
Based on info we got from several posts here.. Power for the turn signals comes from the fuse box, thru the hazard switch, then thru the flasher, before going into the combo switch wiring. With the hazards off, the hazard switch makes proper contact to complete the circuit to send power down to the flasher, out to the white wire, to the combo switch plug. White turns into green wire on the plug and I do have +12v there.
When I engage the turn signal, voltage drops to 0 on that green wire.
When the turn signal is in the center position (off) the white/red and white/black wires on the combo switch have 0 volts on them, and testing with a continuity tester, those go to ground.. Could that be a short in the wiring or is that normal?
When the hazard switch is turned on, those white/red and white/black wires show +12v on them (flashing obviously). All 4 corners, and the dash indicators light up when the hazard switch is turned on.
Will check the ground to make sure that is good. But pretty sure it was ok.
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Any more progress on the situation?
So, We got a chance to take a look again at the issue. I first replaced the flasher, checked the voltage coming in and out, looked fine - 12 volts min.
We took apart the hazard switch, tested to make sure power was being supplied to the turn signals when the hazards were switched off, and it is.
There's absolutely no power getting to any of the signals when the turn signals are engaged, but there is power when hazards are engaged.
My husband checked the combo switch again just to verify what he is seeing....
He saw that the green wire in the middle of the three wires supplying the turn signals has power on it (which it should), but the white/red and white/black are showing as going to ground (always), is that normal?
He tested the combo switch for continuity (when engaging the turn signal) and it looks good.
Not sure what else to do other than trace every wire, but to me, the fact that all turn signal lights are not working and the tach light (for the turn signals) is not working, means that something that is common to all them is not right but I could be wrong also. Why is this so complicated? lol
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Rsicard, I haven't had a chance to get back under there yet, most likely Friday. I'll post back here...
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Ok thanks for the responses, we did check the switch - my combo switch was definitely bad. I had another switch from a 260, took that switch and soldered the wires where they belong, tested continuity and hooked it up, then tested for voltage. Seems to be good so, flashers will be next to check. I have been down in the "pit" and saw both flashers, the one over the steering column with points to the turn signal flasher, since I can feel/hear the flasher for the hazards when it's on (that one is closer to the front of the dash). I'll bypass the flasher and see if at least they light up.
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I have a '79 280z.... Headlights are fine ( you were mentioning headlights in your post), hazards are fine, it's only the turn signals (f/r) are not lighting up or flashing. The lights do operate as they were tested... but I still haven't found the problem.
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I know this is an old post but I have a couple of questions:
1. Does the inoperative turn signal flasher prevent the turn signals from lighting up at all?
2. Would no turn signal lights and no dashboard turn signal indicator point to anything in particular?
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That's really hard to say, whether it's worth is or not..
As far as the work that it requires, is that something you can do or are willing to take on?
edit: I was reading something wrong...
Depends on how much work you are willing to do. The further away it is from what you want, the more work it will take to get it there..
Good Luck with your decision!
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I'll take one of the:
Barbed rail with cold start, fittings, custom bent brackets, stainless hardware(no gauge and no hole).
$155.00ea Insured and shipped in the USA.
email sent.
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Haha...that's awesome! !
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If anyone has any more pics of the wide flares installed (from Justin) please post pics.... I am in the market for them. Lonestar I can ask him for another method of contact for you.
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Awesome, thanks for the response Jack!
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Pop quiz (sorry I just don't know), does anyone know what this is and if it's necessary to have? I'm swapping the Manifold for a non-egr....
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great progress! cant wait for pics! are you doing anything special with the exhaust?
Not really anything special, just getting rid of the extremely rusty one and putting in a nicer one ( I also bought used). for now......
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The brakes now work beautifully!!!! We did get new rotors also, put the rears on and when we got to the front, realized that they sent us the wrong ones. All good though, we'll replace them when we get the correct ones and grease the bearing while we're at it. The booster and the master cylinder combo worked out great and it was a breeze to put them in. No problems with the larger master either, just had to move the washer fluid reservoir out of the way to get it in.
Now we're on to swapping the intake manifold (to non-egr) and putting in the headers/exhaust. I'll post some pics shortly....
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Great, thanks for the info, someone told me I should have just gotten the 8 1/2 inch because not too many people have experimented with it and I started to question what I read.
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oh, I haven't updated in a bit, but....
We since purchased a reman master cylinder, put it all together and still no brakes. We bought a larger master cylinder (15/16), took off the old one and decided to check the booster. When we took it off we realized that the booster was full of brake fluid! So, I ordered a new one and I'm waiting for it to come in. But.......... I ordered the larger 10" one (2+2). I thought I read that it would be fit fine, but now I'm concerned..can anyone shed any light on this?
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Sorry I may have found it........
Guess I should just call MSA
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Hi all,
I'm looking to change up my rear disc conversion (currently 280zx calipers). Looking at MSAs disc conversion using Maxima (85-88) calipers. It says you need a 240z parking brake cable.
Does anyone know why? What's the difference between the two, is it length?
Just annoyed that the price of the cable is $259.
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Actually that picture was taken before we removed and flipped them. They are in the correct position now. Good catch though, thanks for mentioning that!
Christine's 280z Project
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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We removed it entirely, I haven't noticed any difference yet. I'm looking to clean up the engine bay, so we've been checking to see what else we can remove and make adjustments for without issue.