endurorider

Check valve adjustment and check to see if you have your ignition wires crossed. do you have a compression gauge, noid light, spark tester?

Does it crank over? What kind of ignition do you have? What engine?

What kind of ignition do you have? What color is the smoke blue or black? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

Lets start with a compression check. then put a vaccum gauge on a vaccum port on the intake. We want to pull all the plugs and crank it 4 times then take the reading. We want to see the compression even within 15 psi. if compression is much lower on a cylinder the drop a little oil and do a wet test. see if it comes up. If ok put a vaccum gauge on port vaccum with it idle and see if it steady. if it fluctuates real fast, its a valve. How is it after warms up? If its on cold start , could be a cold start injector not firing or idle speed controller.

Sounds like you have thrown alot of parts instead of diaging the problem. You probley could have paid the dealer the 1-2 hours to find the problem with the parts you changed. I hate to burst your bubble but if you don't know what your doing, maybe you should leave it to the professionals. Lets see now, If you want to try away way and want to learn I will try to steer you the right way. First you changed the fuel pump, did you put a fuel gauge on it to see what the pressure was or is that just a guess. Did you check spark with a spark tester? Did you check compression. You need spark, compression and fuel . You need those 3 things to make an engine start, lets start with those. When I get a no start concern, I check the three basics first.

A big problem area is the connection behind the glove box. I had on I worked on for a customer that when it rained, water would leak through the windshield gasket and onto the group of conectors behind the glove box creating a no start condition along with no lights. Found corrosion on many when pulled apart and I cleaned them and ran a couple of bypass for a couple of the 12 gauge wires. So take a look at those connections. open them up and if you see green corrsion, clean them with battery cleaner and use a small prick to tighten pin tention on them or butt or(prefered) solder and shrink tube in some bypass connections. add some dieelectric grease to the pins after cleaning.

I agree, sounds like a classic cold start problem. If that checks out, and you get a ground and 12 volts to the injector you could remove it and plug it in and see if it sprays when someone else turns over the engine , do it in a glass. and wear eye protection.

Your getting a missfire at idle. Did the tech look at the misfire counter? There is a monitor the tech can look at on his DRB (Chryslers) scan tool and see how many misfires occured on each of the four cylinders. I am suspecting a bad ignition coil. Another thing techs go by is looking at the long term fuel trim. 0% to 6% is acceptable. I perfer closer to 0%. the bigger the number the more fuel added the number goes neg fuel is taken away. If you want to throw parts, you have two coils if I remember right. It a waste spark system. Coils are pretty common on most newer cars to cause misfires. Injectors are a lot more rare. Usually in high mileage cars you'll see plugged or bad coils in them . coil should run you about 40-90 each. I don't think an occasional misfire would cause black soot exhaust pipe or poor mileage. If you had a o2 sensor on its way out causing a rich condition , I would think it would throw a code and the mil would be on. If it was me I would go back to the dealer and get with the service manger. One of the most important things to them is CSI . The survrey you get on the phone or the mail effects there bonus and what cars they get to sell. If you go to the service manger and you show your very upset and you want it fixed, they will turn your (heat) car over to a shop foreman Master tech instead of a lube tech who probleby did the service and has little experence.

If it was my car, I would think about changing that setup. They usually dont get air in them by themselves. Plus sitting for 4 years???? Plus what 20-30 year old car. OEM part ? I would not trust it. My z has been down for 3 years during the build and is getting all new brakes and clutch setup. Don't want to be 500 miles from home and have a failure.

That should be ok. How many lights? The more light will work the alt. harder. I used to run 4 x 100 watt on my toyota and it would drag my voltmeter down under 12 volts. A lot of light over a long period could run the battery down. 2 lights should be fine but 4-6 light of high wattage will strain the electrical system. On multi light systems, off roader will opt for a larger alt. that has a higher amp output. or run a dual batt setup. Run short wires (larger the better) to the battery direct and control them with a relay to turn them on and off. Less loss in a shorter wire. plus you dont want to bring in heavy wiring through a firewall where it could chaffee agianst the sheet metal and ground out. I would run a single ground wire from a toggle switch inside to ground and close the relay near the lights. This is how I wired the lights on my truck and installed my HID lights on my 240z

Well, the auction does not look to bad, hes got a lot of good feedback, price is in the range. Hope you are good at rewiring a car.As a Master auto tech I know you will have lots of wiring mods to do. Will have to factor in mods to the radator hoses, motor mounts, exhaust system. will need to hook up the o2 sensor to it for feedback to the ecu. mounting up the clutch. It sgoing to run way over a g by the time your done and be very labor intensive, just looking at it.

Alot of people replied showing the virtues of the 500 cad engines and I don't dipute that they can be made to preform ,That does not mean it is the right engine to put in a z. . I'm just looking at the fact that the 500 will add weight were you don't need it, In the front of the car. If your looking for raw power why not supercharge instead?144 blower is $1500 in satin finish and $2 g polished. The sbc adds 150 lbs to the front of the z. Aluminum heads, intake ect can help. Relocate the battery to the rear helps. Having all that weight up front for a big block which weights more then a small block seems to go against the cars design. which was supposed to be a balanced sports car. Its bad enough, that the small block has a 57/43 weight distrubtion. I feel a car should be balanced. I mean, its cool guys get some power out of the old cads, people even take the 403 olds, with it hollow , weak main webbings and machine a bearing cradle so the bottom end can hold up to 6000 plus rpms, shove a steel crank in and go racing. But it cost alot to do that. So you can make anything work if you put effort, time and money in it. As far as to be different thing is cool. I just look at horsepower per dollar and I know you will pay way more to modify a 500 cad in parts ,than a sbc or sbf. By the way, For the guy who said 10 g for a 502 , Roller cammed street thumper. There is no replacement for displacement, and torque is king. These 502 c.i.d. cast iron 4-bolt mains with 1-piece rear main seals with approximately 8.75:1 compression and 450 hp at 5,250 rpm and 550 ft./lbs. of torque at 3,500 rpm. These blocks are fit with 1053 forged steel crankshafts, forged aluminum pistons with forged steel shot peened rods with 7/16 in. bolts. Hydraulic roller camshafts with .510 in. intake lift, .540 in. exhaust lift and duration at .050 in. for intake is 211 degrees, and 230 degrees for exhaust. Cast Iron cylinder heads with 118cc combustion chambers with 2.19 in. intake, and 1.88 in. exhaust valves. Rock arms are installed with 1.7:1 ratio. They are then topped off with aluminum dual plane intake manifolds and dress the engine with a cast iron water pump, 6-quart oil pan, windage tray, 14 in. flexplate and torsional damper. So, all you need to do is provide an 750 cfm carburetor, HEI ignition system, headers with 2 in. diameter by 30 in. long primaries and low restriction mufflers and a car with big sticky tires. These 502 HO crate engines require electric fuel pumps because the 502 GEN VI blocks have no mechanical fuel pump bosses. The 502 HO is not intended for marine use, and should only be used in 1978 and earlier pre-emissions street vehicles or any year off road vehicles. part number NAL-12568778 Summit Racing $6099 ships tomorrow.

why would you want to know? There pretty hidious. Fred Motorsport auto has some nice new ones.

Check the connections behind the glove box. they run back to the brake lights. Don't trust the voltmeter too much. You may have 12 volts on the meter, but that is unloaded. Use a brake, fog lamp ect bulb to see if it lights up. Thats a loaded circuit test. If it does not you have a voltage drop(bad Connection) If there is green on the terminals use battery cleaner not protector to clean them and squeeze the connector pins to increase tention Fred

I would really check into thoses 19's. I heard that anything over an 18 will suck on corners. have a pretty harsh ride too. may not clear the strut as well . My 17s look pretty big on a little 240 Fred