denny411

Is yours the 200 metric 3 spd or 200r4 4 spd o.d?

YES,THE 200 METRIC WAS A 3-SPEED USED IN GM MID SIZED CARS BEHIND THE N/A V-6 AND 305`S. THESE WERE MARGINAL TRANSMISSIONS AT BEST,AND BY NO MEANS SHOULD BE USED IN A H/P APPLICATION

An engine is what you make it.Change cam/intake/exhaust,ect.The horsepower possibilities are endless.Except for very high hp,the sbc foundation is basically the same it all depends on what you put in it.that`s my opinion anyway.

I`ll look around and see if I can find a pair then.Thanks for the help

Russ, check on e-bay, there are some suppliers who market the vic/brit weather stripping there and you can sometimes get a deal.(every little bit help$)

The only diference between the one from H/F,and the head is that from looking at the pic there are just a few less rods,and the spread of the rods at the tips is a smaller diameter.so i think the head for doing large areas may be a little faster.I personally like the pistol grip of the air hammer it`s all a matter of personal preference.(just some food for thought when making your decision)I know if hadn`t already found this one,I wouldn`t hesitate to buy the one from H/F

I`m in the middle of putting a timing belt and water pump on this prelude,got side tracked and started checking out the seats.These things are sweet.Has anyone here used these in your Z? and if so what do you think of them?

Craig ,Alabama`s fine, I`m just a fish out of water.I find myself paying retail for parts.Somthing completely out of carracter for me.just don`t know enough people to wheel & deal with.At home deals would practicaly find me. Hey Dave ,good deal thats the animal.have you tried any of the above suggestions?

Try looking for it at any of the parts stores that sell professional tools ex.Napa, Big A,ect.ask if they carry needle scalers,and if they can get just the head to put onto your air hammer.You could get the regular scaler,(I`m too cheap for that.(100.00+ vs.40.00) I`ll go with the 40. FYI I stripped all the undercoating from the rear wheel wells of my 71 chevelle in under ten minutes,and stripped all the loose paint on my 23 ft car trailer in less than 30 min. (WORKS FOR ME)

YEP, It`s a needle scaler head that screws on to your air hammer/chisel in place of the spring. It has about 10-12 hardened steel rods that hang loose,when you pull the trigger they randomly strike the surface to strip away whatever rust/paint/splatter,ect. that your trying to remove. I personaly wouldn`t use it to remove paint from a smooth body panel, Just on spots with body filler.You may run the risk of putting slight ripples in the panel.It doesn`t remove paint from sheet metal very well anyway,there is too much give too it,but on somthing solid like an engine block it works great for paint removal.As stated ealier,I feel it is best for under coating on floorpans firewalls and suspension parts.Just remember to use it at the same angle you would a putty knife,this way you`re skimming the surface and not hammering it

I`ve been using a needle scaler to remove under coating,it works very well If the undercoating isn`t still sticky.If it is dried out at all use the needle scaler at the same angle that you would use a putty knife(and watch the stuff just fly off)It will work on soft coating but not near as quickly.The harder the better.Needle scalers are usually anywhere from 100.00 to 200.00 bucks,but at an auto value parts store I picked up a head that you screw on to your air hammer in place of the spring.it was only 40.00 and the replacement needle sets are 10.00.These are very handy tools to have in any case,they can be used to clean suspension parts of rust and flaking paint,also to clean up your engine block (chip away any extra casting flash and paint that didn`t come off during degreasing.I`ve wanted one of these tools for years but couldn`t force myself to spend the big bucks for one.since I picked this needle head up I`ve used it on all sorts of things,ex.chip out body filler,remove undercoating,strip loose paint and rust scale from my car trailer,chip weld slag and splatter(when stick welding),clean a-arms and crossmember. I wish I had found this sooner,It would have saved me alot of time and headaches I HOPE THIS HELPS Y`ALL (I`ve been in Al. too long)

the 700r4 has no modulator on it vs. the 350/400th,it also has a more or less rectangular shaped pan.the 200r4,for lack of better description has a more elongated pan that has an extended shallow sump at the very rear of the pan.HOPE IT HELPS

Don`t forget that the late flywheel is weighted differently than an early f/w. compensating for the flange on the old crank vs the newer crank with the one piece rear seal. whatever you do, just make sure it`s balanced properly or you`ll go through bearings like mad(maybe worse)

For just a standard swap(unless you want posi),there is no reason to change the differential.The r 200 is more than strong enough to handle 400hp with no modifications necessary

Russ I`ve got 2 700r4`s in my garage in Oh, If 125.00 sounds good I can bring one back with me next weekend,If you have`nt made a decision yet just let me know. I plan on going back and forth quite often, It`s an option if you can`t get a deal around here

I found another type of stripper that works very well. It is also made by Kleen Strip (premium stripper) This stuff took off a very heavy coat of Imron(polyurethane),and the original coat of paint in one application. On the can it says it is for removal of epoxy and polyurethane in addition to latex and enamel. Now for the icing on the cake, an 18 oz. can is only 3 bucks!! at wal-mart,thats less than half the cost of the other things I`ve tried, and with only one application instead of two,I think it will not only save me time but money I`m not sure if it should be used on fiberglass though.since it says for epoxy,it may attack the gel coat --- JUST A LITTLE EXPERIENCE I THOUGHT I`D PASS ON

I need the MEK to absorb water from fuel tanks.-----------(HERE IS SOME HELPFUL INFO FOR ANYONE WHO MIGHT THINK THEY NEED A NEW GAS TANK)--------I use Red Kote gas tank sealer,and it is thinned with mek.that is the only thing they recomend thining it with.Also,if you don`t want to wait at least 24 hrs after washing the tank out to seal it, you can pour a quart of mek in after draining as much as possible, It will absorbe as much as 5 oz. of water. this can be saved and used again later or use it for cleanup.Red Kote is excelent for coating and sealing rusty tanks, it will also seal pin hole leaks and leaky seams.All for a total of less than 30.00 WHAT A DEAL

I`m looking more for the wide body flares for the rear.kinda like the ones in the members rides board on bobs 2FORTZ 74 260.I love the smooth look of them...Hey,Les you wouldn`t happen to make anything like that would ya?

These joints are only about 15 bucks each.For that, I`d give it a shot before the cost of custom fabbing.the worst that can happen is that they wouldn`t work.In my opinion they would hve to be better than stock.HEY...they`ve got a lifetime warrantee.if they break return them,then your only out the labor.(just don`t tell`em what you were doing with them)I dunnit ba`for

They are solid joints with no grease zerk on them.my friends usually get them at the shop where they get shafts cut and balanced.I`ve gotten them at advance auto parts,for my chevy truck,the front shafts in my 4x4 ranger,and the front axles in my explorer.Even if they don`t list a part# for the Z,you should be able to measure them and have them cross referenced.If you get some and they work well,be sure to list the part#`s for all to see.If you have any problems crossing them, list the measurments and I`ll have a friend(advance store magr)see what he can do.He`s found things for me before that other advance stores swore wern`t available or didn`t exist

I`m too cheap to throw anything away.especialy if I had to pay for it.I figure on using it on the first coat of paint, it`s the original paint.Thanks for the motivation though, I`ve been dreading stripping this thing cuz I knew it would be a bear,but once I got started I kept going till I found something that would work.I`ll finish stripping the entire car this weekend

Have you tried brute force u-joints? Many of my friends using nitrous and or trans brakes have yet to brake a joint.The driveshaft has twisted off first.

Are yours the same as bobs2fortz 74 260z in the members rides section?I`m not sure what you could do,I would realy like to get ahold of a pair for my Z.I was hoping that someone was remaking them

does anyone reman, the scarab rear fender flares? I would realy like to get a pair.

You ain`t kiddin. Man this stuff sucks.I started with the "Peeler"(this softened it a little)Then went to the "Aircraft stripper" On the other Quarter,and used a coarse scotch bright pad to scuff the surface.This worked a little better,but still took three applications.I used half a can on just the top half of the Quarter.At that rate this could get costly.Finally I went to Lowes and asked what the strongest stripper they had was.I bought one gallon of Strypeeze for 15.00,THIS STUFF KICKS A$$.It is a paste that you brush on.I put it on pretty thick,and to keep it from evaporating,I covered it with seran wrap.I let it set for about half an hour.It blistered the entire deck lid.It only took one coat to take off the IMRON and one to take off the original paint.Unbelievably it left the original primer in almost perfect condition. Hey I`d like to get ahold of a gallon of Methel Ethel Ketone,where can you get this stuff?I`ve looked every where.