denny411

Where`s a good place to get it? I`ll pick up a gallon and see if it works.If it doesn`t I`ll save it for a "normal job"

Does anyone have a strong preference on paint stripper? I`m not sure but I think this stuff is Imron(polyurethane)and its pretty thick. I`d like to have this thing ready to paint by spring,so I can send it to the paint shop when the 280 is done.What is the best you can get?

The cost of converting to a 305 vs. 350 is basically the same,I`m not sure what the JTR kit cost.I`m only going to use bits and pieces of it because I`m using a motor plate.As stated earlier,your best bet is to get the JTR manuel,study it and look for a doner car for the engine ect.Look for something that someone has lost interest in,but have put lotsa goodies on it.this will be much more reasonable than buying retail.Also check classified papers ect.The best thing about a doner car is that it gives you some hands on experience.Taking something apart is the best way to learn how and why it works(and hopefully how to put it back together.As far as total cost of the conversion,it depends on what you want.There are z`s out there that cost 30k+ and some for only a few thousand or less.The most important thing is to be realistic about it,ex.caviar taste and a bologna budget

patience..patience..patience,I remember being 16 very well.by that age I had taken two automotive courses,and had already rebuilt a 454,numerous vw rabbit heads,and a 2300 Ford 4 cyl.All with other peoples money.The problem being,I had huge dreams of what my first car was going to be.I had no idea what parts in the real world cost.I worked 20 hrs a week during the school year,and 40 during the summer. That didn`t leave much time to work on the car(except to just keep it running) My point is,if the car runs well now,leave it alonefor now and work on accumulating the parts for the conversion.This way when you`re out of school and have more spare time to work on your ride you will have all the parts,instead of being 16 and no wheels cuz it`s sitting in the driveway in pieces (like mine was half the time).besides,you`ll gain alot of practical knowledge just keeping it running normal.You will also get the driving experience you`ll need to handle that V8 monster

My Z is still in Oh,scheduled to be painted sometime in the next month or so.I still have to take it to the inspection station before I can install the 383(I don`t think the statey`s would be as encouraging as the guy`s on this board)I brought a 71 chevelle w/ me that I`m in the middle of a frame off on.I`ll tell ya,cars are alot easier to move in one piece.I should have the chevelle ready for paint by spring or eary summer.Then I`ll bring the Z down,and start the project I really wan`t to work on.

COOL.. When I get a little further along in my projectI`ll get with ya,I`ll be coming to Pitt,to visit my Brother...I`ll let you know ahead of time and maybe we can get together

Russ,my project ideas started at a salvage auction with a buddy that owns a yard.I saw a 77 280 with 2 dings in the hood and a tailight broken out.It looked like it had been rearended and pushed into the back of a p.u with tow hooks.I crawled underneath it,and found the floors and all visible points of the frame to be rust free.So...135.00 later I drove it home.With a salvage title the car would never realy be worth anything as a classic, so let`s cut it up and race it. By the way,I`m currently living in Oxford Al.(just for another year or so)My wife is down here at Lincoln training new team leaders at the new Honda plant.I am looking for a solid 240 to build in addition to my 280, would you happen to know of any off hand? 256 832 5366 I`ve been having trouble with my e-mail lately.

Did you see the price of that billet convertor? 800 Bucks,and the tranny?almost 2k,I need to sell some stuff to pay that much.I know...I could get one cheaper someplace.I`m probably better off getting the parts and putting it together myself,cuz the wife would string me up by my scrotum if she saw that on our credit card bill, ouch I`m actualy in Alabama right now,but i`m from Wapakoneta Oh

ALSO napa and most radiator shops carry a sealer called Red Kote. I`ve used this on a 65 corvair(they don`t make new tanks for them)and an 85 GPZ 550 Kaw.It worked very well on both,just remove and drain the tank flush it out with dawn dish soap and hot water(you could also use the engine cleaning setting at the car wash)let it dry for at least 24hrs.pour the sealer in slosh it around,Pour off the axcess,and let it set up for a day...viola,Good as new,for about an hour and a half labor and 25 bucks

---WOW---

With a torch and a welder...anything will fit

Scottiegnz,or anyone else who might know. How much would a bullit proof 200r4 cost?and who makes a good 3k stall convertor w/ lockup for for one ----------

I think I have a perfect 73 240 console in my attic.One problem,it`s in oh,and I`m in Al,(relocated till mar,03) But next week I`m heading north to transfer and register a 99 explorer I picked up on E-bay.If your interested I can take a look.

IMO balancing is cheap ins. When you rebuild an engine it`s pretty easy to have it balanced then,rather than getting the car finished and on the road,and deciding you want more power later.I`ve been there before and with the benefit of 20/20 hindsight I don`t think I would ever put a performance engine together without balancing.

I like the design alot.It looks very functional.Is that a prefab kit? or did you have it made special?--------VERY COOL-----------DENNY

If anyone is interested,A good site to search salvage yard inventories nationwide is http://www.car-part.com/works.htm go to the buyer services link.You can also search by state.I`ve been using this site for a while now,and it has saved me alot of time and gas----------DENNY

Thanks guys.I kinda thought that might be the case,but wanted some first hand input.Can the 200r4 handle 500+ hp? or are certain years better than others.-------------------DENNY

I was wondering if anyone had heard of or seen anyway of lowering the second gear in a 700r4 I`m looking to put one behind a 383 that I wan`t to run on the street and strip but,I`m concerned about RPM drop when I hit second ---------DENNY

A good way for a novice to get some good food for thought,would be to go to a book store or library and,and pick out some of the Hp books.A really good book is 1001 high performance tech tips,also David Visards... how to build horsepower.Both are very good books that have alot of general info that I wish I had 20+ years ago when I started tearing things apart and "trying" to put them back together.The tech tips book would be the most useful because it has information in all areas,such as trans,axles,brakes,paint,body,electrical,ect.------------THAT`S WHAT I THINK ANYWAY.......I`M GONNA TEACH MY SONE TO READ WITH THE TECH TIPS BOOK..TO GIVE HIM A LITTLE HEAD START-------------DENNY

I`ll bite too. how do they hold the balancer on?-------------------DENNY

THANKS FOR THE INFO,GUESS I NEED TO KEEP LOOKING GOOD NEWS ABOUT THE G-NOSE THOUGH .------------THANKS AGAIN DENNY

will a hatch from a 75 280 2+2 fit a 77 coupe? I found a perfect 2+2 one in a yard in alabama,65.00 with glass.i thought it was a deal but wasn`t sure if it would fit mine or not.also curious about the doors(also perfect). another question,has anyoneseen or heard of anyone using the g-nose with the subtle-z kit.my concern is air flow through the radiator.------------------------DENNY

Yes,you have a problem.the flywheel you have from the 89 sbc is counter weighted to compensate for the one piece rear main seal.I am not sure whatflywheel will work for you,but if you know someone adventureous at a machine shop you might be able to pursuade them to mill the counterwieght off.just make sure they can balance it afterwerds.I have done this with flex plates for early to late model ford and chevys DENNY