denny411

what type of belts do you have?serpentine/v-belts If you have v-belts, check to make sure that you have the proper width of belts. If they are too wide/narrow they will slip at higher rpm`s.it also could be your lower radiator hose sucking shut, make sure it has a spring in it to prevent this. If it is a serpentine belt,it is possible that you have too long of a belt, this will cause excess deflection and possible slipage. also be sure that the water pump is turning in the proper direction.somtimes when picking and chosing pulleys/belts and tensioners and figuring out where to put them,people can get the water pump turning the wrong direction. It also could be a problem with the thermostat.if it sticks open or opens too quickley it may circulate the coolant so fast that it doesn`t have time to disipate enough heat while passing through the radiator. this is the problem with not running a thermostast at all.if I think of anything else I`ll let you know

also use tie down straps from the engine to all four corners of the bed to make sure that it goes when you go and stops when you stop.

If you have a blow torch handy. heat the center of the drum in between the studs and around the very center of the hub,get it as hot as possible,smack it a few times with a hammer between the studs.if this doesn`t work the first time,repeat and follow by quenching with a liberal flow of water from a garden hose until completely cool,then smack it again

I`ve got my 71 chevelle on the rotissurie that I built a couple months ago.It`s alot bigger than what most guys on Hybridz use for their Z`s.It looks like two very large engine stands facing each other and connected by a telescoping piece in the center,and has large casters welded on it..I built it this way to transport the car on my 23 ft car trailer(that I also built)from Ohio to Alabama,I have a winch on the trailer that I hook to the rotissurie to pull the car on. you would not believe how well it works my z is in paint jail in oh,right now it`s in primer and should be painted sometime in the next few weeks,If I can decide what color to go with .I hope to bring it down with me this spring or early summer,when I come back down from planting corn and beans

That`s good for you and bad for me I wish I`d seen that sooner,I paid 40.00 for mine.But at least I know where to get another if I ever need one.Thanks By the way...I was in Atlanta today went to the mall in Alpheretta,was going to take my son to the zoo but got a late start.They were closing when we got there.damn time change

My thought was, If the pinion nut is overtightened the bearings may howl from too much pressure on them.

If you only removed the pinion nut and did not remove the carrier,all of your other clearances should be O.K (pinion depth/backlash)

Did you replace the crush sleeve? They must only be used once.also did you use an impact gun to reinstall? The proper way is to tighten the nut a little at a time, and alternatly turn the pinion with an inch pound tourque wrench to insure that you have the proper preload on the pinion bearings.If you over tighten it you will have to remove and replace with another sleeve.these sleeves are about 5 bucks at a gm dealership,so it pays to be patient. The only short cut to this would be to mark the pinion and nut before initial removal.and tighten till the marks line up but you must still replace the crush washer.It has spring tension against it and will not hold proper prelooad if reused.this will cause your pinion bearing to loosen and possibly make noise and wear out prematurely. Good luck

for the starter getting hot,I`ve used the aluminum adhesive tape that you can get at parts stores.6 or 8 in wide.The same stuff that some pretty crafty people use to rerair rust holes peal off a strip and wrap the starter,thi will reflect alot of heat and may solve your problem.You may want to use a thin layer of fiberglass insulation between this and the starter,It will look similar to what chrysler used on their K-cars w/ 2.2 turbo-2.5 4cyl starters that were tucked in behind the engine and under the exaust or turbo.I`ve seen these starters last well over 100k mi, so it must help

9 volts should fire it just fine for start up.It sounds like your module to me maybe

Be absolutely sure to do this in a very well vetilated area.The fumes from this stuff will knock you on your butt also have some acetone handy for cleanup.You will want to be sure to wear gloves ect,and mask off anything you don`t want covered(bolt holes and flanges where suspension parts bolt up)A 3m paint mask might be a good idea also. Good luck

I`ve used mine to install cab corners on my extended cab truck and it worked very well.When you weld the Quarters on be sure not to use anything over.023 wire unless it`s gasless or fluxwire any larger will require too much heat and will burn through or warp the panel

TRY THIS go to wal mart and pick up a gallon of the dupli color rubberized truck bed coating and get the roller kit to go with it. Then put the car as high up on stands as you can get it,and rollit on.You`ll have to use a brush in the tight corners ,but it looks nice and will cost a lot less than rhino does. (About 50.00 bucks)I used this in the bed of two different trucks and both are holding up very well I`m planning to use on my 280,and my 71 chevelle.I figured if it can hold up to all the crap I throw in the bed of my truck,It sure ought to hold up to a few stones that get kicked up here and there.

The locking collar would explain the "wobble" in the shaft while priming. Coolant from the failed head gasket also would not be good for the bearings.More experience for everyone to learn from.Too bad it was at your expense The lesson here is that the oiling system in an engine could be compared to the body`s blood stream,running an engine with eratic oil pressure could be compared to jogging while having a heart attack eventually it`s gonna do serious damage. Good Luck this time around

On the coler coat just enough to cover evenly,On the clear I would do at least two and put the second on relatively heavy.That`s the great thing about clearcoat,you can wet sand out any runs and it allows you to put your color coat (especially metallics) on more evenly reducing the chance of tiger stripes

There is a pair of them on ebay in the mgb parts.I saw them earlier tonight

I picked up an air operated flange tool at a swap meet.It also has a hole punch on it for doing spot welds, Only about 35.00 I think northern tool has them also

very interesting grumpy, but now my head hurts.that explains completely why you suggested the cams that I have for my 355/383 would be best suited for a lower gear. Thanks for the info

Did you ever figure out what went wrong the first time?

If heating it doesn`t work,Try heating it and then using a garden hose flush water across it until it is completely cool.The expansion may help to loosen any corrosion but at the same time may make the threads grip tighter.cooling it at a very quick rate will contract the metal.I had a wagon running gear that had been sittin on the hubs in a low lying area,under water most of the time.the spindles were frozen solid and the front wheels could not be turned at all.I heated the housings red hot and tried to turn them and they still would not budge I even beat on them with a 12lb sledge still nothing.After talking to the owner of a local weld shop,I heated them and immediatelly quenched them in a tub of cold water.After removing from the water I could turn them easily by hand.I hope that someone can learn from this experience I know I did

the clearance may be misleading,remember there are no headers on it yet

try this link and see if you can find any specific info on your headshttp://www.mortec.com/sfampage.htm Good luck

try this link and see if you can find any specific info on your headshttp://www.mortec.com/sfampage.htm Good luck

that looks like a perfect candidate for a wide body kit,or maybe the subtle Z kit. Just knock out as much as you can and cover it up I`d buy it in a minute(if it was cheap enough)

Why?? BECAUSE YOU CAN!