essdeezee

Good luck with that miata IRS swap. Some considerations that you'll want to take in to account: Overall width hub-to-hub Available gear ratios in the rear end Ride height and its effect on suspension geometry (compared to front that you use) Bolt pattern/Intended wheel offset for suspension design (miatas like high positive) Mounting points (miata uses a power plant frame thingy) I'm sure there are plenty of other things you'll run into, but that was what came off the top of my head. I love miatas (the family autox car is a '94), and would love to see you succeed!

You must realize that that area is the bottom of that distribution chain. The endpoint of general sale. The real "Dons" wouldn't have anything to do with that particular area. They operate far higher on the distribution chain. A dime? pssh. You don't sling a quantity of stuff to support that lifestyle down on the corner. The big players buy wholesale and break it down for distribution. No dirtying of hands, or spending any time in the ghetto. That's straight up business.

I saw in the first post, you were talking about a newer miata rear end. Why? Specifically, why the Miata rear over either a longnose r200 or even a shortnose? I'd understand wanting the Miata suspension, but the rear end?

..... SO Cash

That pedobear charm had me laughing randomly all day long...

Whichever one gets me neutral. Beat looking fast car or beautiful slow car?

Hobart 185(need to check in the garage) here, and it works well. Happy with it. Only wish it was infinitely adjustable voltage like my dad's Miller. I can't complain though, because of what I paid for it.

Quick version: Girlfriend's car ('96 Civic EX) was heating up when not moving. Slow, steady coolant loss. No visible leaks. Rad. fan would only come on with AC. Easy fix, ECT switch. The civic was operating normally after the fix, but still lost coolant. I added leak detection dye, and was planning to test her car soon. She was driving, and began to heat up even while driving. Fan was on. She left it running, popped the hood, and the overflow was overflowing and bubbling. After sitting to cool, radiator was near empty. She happened to be near her family's mechanic, and so took it to him. He diagnosed a head gasket failure, and wanted about a grand for the fix (including valve job). Not a bad price, but still a grand. I offered to do the fix. Mechanic said he'd checked compression, and found cylinder 3 low. This, combined with an over-pressurized cooling system, and steady coolant loss with no visible leaks sounds like a HG failure to me too. So, I take the thing apart and the head gasket appears intact. There is no "steam cleaning" effect on the cylinder in question. I made a huge mistake by not performing my own compression check before tearing it apart. Here's my question for you guys. Do you regularly see HG failures where there is no obvious sign of the failure itself? The two I've seen (fixed) were of the "spectacular" and obvious type.

As if we didn't get enough people saying "Nice Porsche bro". Those Taurus lights just seal the deal.

Go figure, mine came today too. I am pleased with the quality, and my gear was delivered as ordered.

They were Konig Rewinds, which I believe for our bolt pattern and a 14" rim were only ever available with the -9 offset. Easy way to find out how the rim will sit in relation to your fender: Remove wheel, use framing square (metal "L" shape) against the mounting surface. 7"/2= 3.5" 9 mm= .354" So, take your square, and measure 3.354" from the hub face. This is how far your wheel will stick out. You can find your overall diameter based on your tire choice, and search to find actual mounted and inflated width of the tires you would use. Measure up half the overall diameter from the center of the hub and out your 3.354" + however far the tires stick out beyond the rim. Compress suspension and measure to see if you'd rub. Make sure you try it with the wheel turned both directions in the front. Ok maybe not EASY, but easier than reselling wheels you just bought because a intarweb stranger said they'd fit.

I have seen a z locally with the 14's. It looked good, and he said there were no rubbing issues. I do not recall his tire size. YMMV. And FWIW, positive offset on an s30 makes me sad. Unless you're trying to stuff huge meats under stock fenders.

Why wouldn't they? Those wheels work on a stock application, and coilovers give you more clearance from suspension to the wheel. On top of that, those new ones are negative offset, which would move the inner part of the rim even further from the suspension. Should be just fine.

I ordered one for a '77 to stick into my '71 when mine went bad. Same mounting holes, but it hangs below the core support. Just don't run anything over

I've also had good experiences with the cheaper horizontal metal cutting bandsaws. Slow, but accurate and safe (ie: no chips flying like .22's!). I use the Nikx Stix (something like that lol) for lubricant, and it makes a world of difference.