ZROSSA
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Posts posted by ZROSSA
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S15.... Just a quick non related question. What size are the rims on your car at the moment?
Douglas
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Get the bigest truck v6 you can find and put some cams in it. Toyota 4.0 or a quad camer from one of the other co.s. Rear wheel drive with tranny already there and should be pretty tough. 100 hp per liter is pretty achievable these days for the road. A lot more if you really want to spin it.
Douglas
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I managed to do it on the rears of my 2+2. Havent tried the fronts.
Douglas
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I have been wanting to build somthing similar for a while. Bike engines are expensive here though so I have been having a look around and desided to use the drive train from and alfa 33 or sud. Could also use subaru but the alfa set up is much lighter. I would take the whole subframe out of the front and use it as a jig to make up the tube frame for a mide engined flat 4. You would just have to make up some front suspension. I would be useing this on the farm and for great blasts of speed up and down the local aluvial river bed so suspension is mandatory. You can pick up whole alfa suds here for $500 odd so would be a cheep project.
Douglas
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I used foam that I glued to the car then filed and sanded roughly to shape. I then put coats of gib stopping compound ( the stuff you use to smooth sheet rock walls) And sanded it to the final finish. You then have to seal it and paint it. I had to use water based paint becuase the solvent based stuff would eat the foam I used. Just make sure you wax the hell out of it before you start laminating.
Douglas
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Put the muffler as far away from the engine as possable. It will be quieter and lose less performance.
Douglas
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Cool. Like it........a lot. Are you going to finish triangulating the Back bone?
Douglas
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Jeff,
I not to sure on the scrub radius thing (will look it up) But when you think about it a mac. Strut might be the easiest thing to use. Just set it up with as much adjustment as you can get with camber plates and you can go from street to race in no time. I think the scrub radius is where a line would hit the ground if drawn through the top of a strut then trough the ball joint. You want zero and the normal would be negative (more towards the center line)with the standard set up. I guess the wider the tyre the larger the difference. There is a way around this however. You need to space the hub away from the ball joint so you can run wheels with the offset biased towards the inside. I did this on my 75 Corolla. It has bilsten struts out of a sentra and s4 rx7 hubs. Funny combo, but cheep. We just figured out where every thing needed to be and welded up spacers from the strutt to the hub.
Douglas
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Got a grinder? Just get a thin cut of blade for it. That all I have ever used.
Douglas
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No prob. Glad my half pissed ( was Friday night after all) coments were of some use.
Douglas
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Mike,
Whats the story with your "rear arm fix". Did you run out of adjustment?
Douglas
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Hate to say but its not triangulated at all! You should have joined the firewall bars to the top of the strut. The other thing to keep in mind is that the forces involved are high. The fact that you cant bend the bars unfortunatly means nothing. Think of it this way. You cant pull or push the strutt towers but you know they move with the forces involved or you wouldnt bother naking the bars.
Douglas
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Clint, Havent done it but going to comment anyway. I tryed to put a supra rear end in my 75 corolla 4 years ago. It a circut car only and in the end it would have been much heavyer with the IRS. I was under the impression that you were going to want to drive this on the streets every so often, So you will need a cert. The subframe mounting points on the skyline dont come anywhere near the ones on the s30. I think you would need to add a lot of metal to the mounts. The other thing is that looks like a hicas rear. I guess you would have to run that locked out so then the rear wouldnt work as intended and you would have to spend a whole lot of time and money sorting it out. Its also wider. In the end it comes down to your skills and resources. It would be a cool swap but I dont think it will be any better on the track then a well modified standard set up. On the track you will run springs that are stiff enough and wont allow the standard set up to get into the range where it becomes compromised. The skyline set up will need a lot more work to get it track ready. Start buy thinking about the number of rod ends you will need.
Douglas
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Howdy,
You have still ignored what the lads have been saying. If you want this to be strong then you will need to get some triangles in there. I would do the radiator suport like a small space frame. I still dont see much of a benifit in joining the struts to the radiator support. I would drop them down to the front suspensiom mounts. Try not to join any tubes to the middle of another tube. It just creates a place for that tube to bend.
Douglas
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Very nice indeed. You wouldnt happen to know of a good place to figure out the volumes needed? I think I might do something similar for the corolla.
Douglas
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We have covered this in the past. Have a search. I put some measuremets in the old post.
Douglas
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Richard,
Are you getting tyre temps.across the tyre after a lap? I think the inflation and camber issuies are relavent but the grain patern on the ouside edge is probable a clue to the answer. Not that I know It. How do these compare to other tyres you have used? Another thing to think about is that if you have improved the tyre resently then the rest of the set up might not work with them.
Douglas
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There is probably a good reason why Johns manifold performed better. Have a look at the runners. They are straight. To do I.T.B's on the l6 would need bent runners or 6 individual bodies. Very expensive. I belive the ITB's will make more power on an engine designed to use them. That means that the port spacings would be a equal distance apart. When the world rally car f2 rules changed a few years ago, no longer alowing itb's, the cars lost about 15 h.p if I remember correctly. They were reving these things close to 9000 rpm though and I cant remember if they had to use the standard manifold.
Douglas
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I think his was a straight 6 out of a skyline import.
Douglas
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Cool, Where are you picking the car up from? Is there much of a difference between the rb20 and rb25 heads. rb20 might be a cheeper option if valve sizes are similar or if you have to do major head work anyway. It looks as though there are going to be a few fast zeds around. Might have to form a club and get in some track time.
Douglas
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911/914 with a small block. I have a soft spot for the triumph's. First car was a herald. A sedan version of the spitfire if you like. Rolled it. Wouldnt mind another. Mabye with a big four like the toyata 3rz taanji's keen on.
Douglas
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Good thinking. Might have to look into that.
Douglas
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Jamie,
I have heard of this being done but only on the exhuast valves. This will also bias the combustion chamber towards the exhuast side which is a good thing.
Douglas
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Looks doable,
I wouldnt worry about the roof line yet. You can do things with paint that can fool the eye around the wind shield that will make look more like the 575.
Before you get to into it have a think about how much lower you want to run the car. The ZX rear suspension wont want to be lowered to much unless you want to do some pretty major modifications.
Douglas
Scalloped rotors?
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
That just doesnt look right to me. Just get some lighter normal rotors. Think about it. If you made that rotor in a normal shape it would have a larger diameter and still weigh the same. You would get more brake torque as well.
Douglas