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ZROSSA

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Posts posted by ZROSSA

  1. Didnt mean to point anyone in the wrong direction. I guess there is a point where boost takes over from mechanical compression. Still you need the combustion chamber to burn properly, no mater what the engine. Have a look around that site James. Interesting reading.

     

    Douglas

  2. Jamie,

    Go have a play around

     

    http://www.theoldone.com

     

    Study all the 4 valve heads you can. I think you will find that you will want to keep the quench pads, particularly the intake side, so that the combustion chamber has a bias towards the exhuast valves. Get your chamber right and you can run lots of compression with a turbo.

     

    Douglas

  3. Pete,

    Does the program ask for valve timing at all. I had a breif look but didnt see them asking for it. I think its pretty important. All the issiues with exhuasts have me a little confused at the best of times. Dave Vizard doesnt seem to care a lot for custome exhuasts and has some evidence to back it up.( how to build HP vol 1). He is refering to 90 degree crank v8's only though. I tend to believe in Ed, Hytech, Burns and similar designers. I have seen 4 bangers make 15% more power with a good exhuast. Thats one thats designed properly against a custom not so well designed one, Not stock. I think that if you are going to the trouble of making headers they may as well be the best you can make.

    I also think that the reason your collecters are so long is that the program is designed to run without an exhuast. The whole length of the collecter wont be converging, a lot of it will be straight tube. Ed calls these collecter extensions. I will post the links of exhuast people that look like they know what they are doing tonight. Got to go to work now.

     

    Cheers, Douglas

  4. Joshua,

    The Headers by Ed info pack is really full of comparisons and Ed's opions but not really any hard facts on how to make headers. I think he wants you to spend more $ on his design service, then you get the real usfull info. The tape/cd is very usfull for putting small children to sleep on long car trips. I have book called " performance tuning in theory and practice" by A. Graham Bell. It has all sorts of formulas for finding the right size header for your aplication. His formulas are all based on exhuast valve opening before bdc. And then the rpm you want to tune the headers to. There is a table in the book so if figure out the opening before bdc I can look it up. When you have this info you can then figure out the size of pipe you need.

    ID=Square root cc/(p+3)*25 then *all by 2.1. CC is volume of 1 cylinder

     

    Hope that makes sence.

    There is a formula to do the tail pipe length and size as well and collecter size as well. If you want them let me know.

     

    Might be worth getting the book. Its been recently updated so some of the info may have changed from what I have here.

     

    Cheers, Douglas

  5. Toyota is a good call, I was going to suggest over bored 18r pistons as the stroke is closer. It does have a hemi head though so probably wont work to well. Also have a look at pistons for the rover v8. I think the ones for the 4.0 engine will be close. I am surprised that the engine isnt based on the existing 4 cylinders like the L20.

     

    Douglas

  6. Thanks for the replys,

    I have completed all the major glass work. I am now at the smoothing stage. There is such a large expanse to do, I am realy trying to find something that is easer to sand then fiber glass its self that will still be compatable.

     

    Douglas

  7. Howdy all,

    I was just going through old threads trying to look for easy ways to finish the body kit I have made for my old corolla. I have kind of made this like Terry O. did his blueovalz but my work is no where as good so there is going to be a lot of fiishing sanding and filling that needs to be done. I have used polyester resin to make the parts. I found a old tread by RACER-X that said to use epoxy resin with microsperes. Can you do this with polyester resin? I also remember someone saying they mixed bondo with resin but I cant find any more info about it. Anyone remember?

     

    Cheers, Douglas

  8. Pete,

    There was a guy here a while back (RB30z?) that did a na version of a rb30. He was also from aussie. Mabye the rb30 turbo that was in the c/dores has a lower head? That would still meet your objectives and probably be a lot less expensive.

     

    Douglas

  9. Thanks Mike,

    I am pretty pleased with my self. Over the last four years I have been living on about 1/4 of what I used to earn in the corporate world while I set up this farm we bought. Big lifestyle change.We have taken a bare 72 acre piece of land and planted 40 in olives for oil and 32 in grapes for wine. Built 5000 sq foot house and a 3500 sq foot house and a 1500 sq foot shed with another one about to start construction. I have been looking after the property on my own and going back to uni. part time to get a wine science degree during this time. Its been a real 24/7 effort but its beginning to pay off now so I think I deserve a little treat.

     

    I dont know where the hell I am going to drive this beast. It has 225 wide tyres so traction is going to be challenging at all times and I think undrivable in the wet. Fortunately it doesnt rain much here. Dont really want to go much wider becuase then I will break trans' and diff's.

     

    Got to go to work. Woo Hoo!

     

    Douglas

  10. Well I bit the bullit today and ordered some bits. The heads are AFR 195,s with angle plugs. Really liked the flow on these. They out flowed everything else I looked at by 30 cfm at .400 lift. Also ordered a 383 stroker kit that will end up giving me 10.0 - 1 comp ratio. The cam specs are 232/234 @.050, 302/300 advertized and .488 lift with 106/110 lobe sep. Crank is a scat 9000 so should be good up to 7000 rpm. Going to run a mighty demon 750 carb. This spec is very similar to the Afr ones on ryan car pages that is putting out 505 bhp. My engine builder want to play with the cam profile a bit to get it to pull hard to 6500 rpm. Might be able to even get a little more HP out of it.

    Old ZROSSA wont know whats hit it.

     

    Douglas

  11. Mike,

    They were cast in New Zealand but have now gone under, Receivership, chapter 11, What ever you want to call it. I saw some heads of there's up for auction a while back and they went for $1300 nzd. I am not sure if they have moved the casting plant elsewhere in the world hence they are still avalable or if these guys are just selling the left overs. Stangly enough I e-mailed a whole bunch of links of head auctions on e-bay yesterday to my engine builder and he became rather excitable. I think he always just used a local distributer for ali heads and paid a awfull lot more for them. Anyway, He is the guy that wins races so I will let him choose the heads and how they are set up that fit in my budget. I would love some Afr's but with the price difference I can get a forged crank, which I might do. I would love to see the other side of 7000 rpm. Woo hoo.

     

    Douglas

  12. Thanks guys,

     

    I have now found dart pro 1's for $949 assembled. These are 230cc heads with 2.08 inlets. Proabable a bit large for a 350 chev but with the money I will save I can probably stroke it to 383. Need to buy pistons and bearings anyway. Anyone seen any dyno numbers from these heads?

    Another thing thats concern is that Pro topline went into recevership here a while ago. I think you call it chapter 11 stateside. They may still be operating elsewhere how ever.

     

    Douglas

  13. Mike,

    I really dont know what shipping will be to here but its got to be at least a couple of hundred bucks. I did find some fully assembled dart pro 1's on e-bay for $1100 us fully assembled with 2.08 intake valves. If I can get them here reasonably cheeply I would be very happy. Things are expensive here. There just is not a large market to suport large sales networks and any economy of scale. The dollar here is not worth as much as the U.S. The nz dollar is worth 70 cents us at the moment which is pretty high for us. It has been as low as 42 cents, so for us now is a good time to be buying from the U.S.

     

    Douglas

  14. The quote for modifing my heads is rather expensive, so i think i would rather just get some ali heads. They are very expensive to buy in N.Z. so i have been looking at e-bay at the following heads that should fit in my budget. I am looking for fully assembled cnc ported heads or ones that flow really well out of the box. I have it down to 3 that i can afford.

     

    Dart iron eagle. Still steel but nice #'s

     

    pro topline - Used to be made here which is ironic.

     

    Renegade racing- I think its a copy of the pro topline.

     

    I think the dart head speaks for its self. Flow almost as well as Afr heads at 1/4 the price. Anyone had and experience with the other two. I could also use some good links to purcase these from. Closer to the west coast would be better for shipping.

     

    Chhers, Douglas

  15. Yes, I would be interested. It would have to be a good price though. The cheepest i have seen them is about $3100 usd. At that price landed in NZ it works out to around $5000 nzd + a computer, fuel lines, pumps, and regulaters. That would be more then i have invested in the rest of the car put together. I guess a lot would depend on how much you pay for the throttle bodies. I also had a bit of a search around for some photos of the cross ram style use on the v8 supercars but couldnt find and recent photos. Always find it difficult finding tech. info. about them.

     

    Douglas

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