ZROSSA
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Posts posted by ZROSSA
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Have a read of the faq's in the link that john posted. They talk a little about it. They are basiclly saying that the higher rpm you turn the closer you will want the buterflys to be to the inlet valve. Do a search on the aussie v8 super cars. They probably have one of the best manifold designs for stock style chevy heads and they dont rev past 7500 rpm. The buterflys are quite far from the inlet port.
Douglas
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Thats a fair point P j. The only thing i can come up with is that the bike engine revs a lot higher and that there is not a lot of room on the bikes for the bodies so maybe they make them wider to compensate. I have a dyno test in an old car and car conversions mag. that did tests on different bodies from converted webers to tappered 48mm ones on a 2lt vauxhaul engine. The engine made the best all round power on the smaller bodies and only a little more top end on the larger ones. All made over 100 hp per liter. I will try to find a link to the toyota ones for you.
Douglas
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I would be in if they are a quality piece of work. Close as possable to equal length, and has good collecters on them. My car is right hand drive so its really tight on the right of the engine bay. Block hugers only just fit. You have to get around the starter, mounts and the steering. Not looking forward to having to fab some myself.
Douglas
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P.J.
How big is the engine that you are building? S.B.C.'s that ran formula 5000 used 48 mm webers. The thing was that the venturi(sp?) was a lot smaller, mabye 38 mm. Fuel injection doesnt have the venturi so that a smaller body can flow a lot more than say a carb the same size. I would guess that each 42mm body would be enough to flow about 100 hp each. This is only from thing I have read so dont take it as exact, but it seems to work for smaller 4 bangers.
Douglas
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P J , The 4ag is the 16v (& 20v) 1.6 l toyota engine. The jap spec 20v engine comes with quad bodies. They dont seem to expensive to pick up.
Douglas
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PJ. The co. Thats rebuilding my sbc does a lot of work on the toyota v8s for speedway work. They have manifolds that mate the quad bodys of a 4ag motor onto the v8. Looks really cool but still expensive. If i were going to do it i would look for a constant flow fuel injection manifold or one made for downdraft webers. You could then find four stuffed webers or similar and gut them and just use them as throttle body's.
Douglas
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I think if i were going to start over again, I would go with the largest, lightest v6 i could find and run lots of boost. It would probably end up being a buick as they seen a lot lighter then the dohc engines. Just need to find a way to make them rev to 6500 at least. Also would have to be a manual trans.
Douglas
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You could use the trans out of any front wheel drive car that has the engine mounted north south. Audi 5000, Renualt 25 , cx citroen and maybe the easiest olds toranado with a big block.
Douglas
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Why do you want that weight split? If it were me i would want a little more on the rear then the front, hence i would look for the largest displacement lightest v6 i could find and turbo it. Not all that thrilled buy the rb motors. Here they are all over the place with some skinny little worms driving them with there hats on backwards, base turned up and no exhuast. They do sound good though.
Douglas
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Had my brother in law stay over new years. One of his good friends is a driving instructer and racer in the local gt3 series. Anyway he gets to drive a lot of cool cars when training people and does a lot of work on scaring the local media when something fun is imported and needs some advertising. To cut out the boring bit the in law was able to drive the atom back from Pukekohe race track back to auckland. About a 50 min drive. He said it was the fastest thing he had driven and it felt like his fford on the road. Also said that he couldnt wear a helment because it was getting ripped back buy the wind so he had to wear sunnies and continue to pick bugs out of his eyes. On normal roads it aparently is very difficult to keep in a straight line do to bumps and tram lining. Think I will stick with the zed.
Douglas
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Terry,
Thanks for the replys, I always learn something. You have the patience of a saint.
Tony, you can stop a lot of flexing buy adding local reinforcing. I have used cedar strips that you mold into the structure, also foam, carboard tube, any thing light that you can glas over the top of. This makes a tube like glass structure that is much more resistant to bending motions. Obviously you but this on the none visable side of your structure.
Douglas
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A Solid axel can work very well on a race car on a smooth surface. Four links are nice as well. If you are going to use the car on the road where more suspension travel is needed then a four link can sometimes bind and give you a bit of a fright. I think a three link can work better. On rough roads the independed will be more comfortable as well as handle better when set up for the conditions. You will also get more traction from a irs in the rough.
Douglas
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I had a couple of magazine articles on the dbv8 and the vanquish that I used a reference when making the mold for my front end. In the end it was kind of tricky to do while still blending in with the existing shape. I will try to put the old photos up again in my gallery.
Douglas
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I think you will find that the power to weight is better then anything you can curenty buy. All the top ferrari's, Aston's and so forth weight over 1700 kg. The only thing that come close are the tvr's and porsche turbo.
Douglas
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The only thing i can think off is that its to increase the spring rate. When you pul them out (and you really should) the car will be softer.
Douglas
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Leigh,
I am surprised you cant pick them up in the U.K. For a long time here (New Zealand) we imported used cars and parts from japan directly so there is a bit of a stock pile of used bits around these days. Used imports have been going you way for a few years now. There should start to be boneyards with parts in them.
Douglas
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Headers are always goingto be a prob.I guess it really depends on what side the starter moter is on on the ls1. My right hand drive z with a sbc and supra gear box leaves very little room for exhuast. I have the steering and the starter motor to get past...........wouldnt believe it. Just spent he last hour putting a FIRE in my truck out. Insurace people wont be happy. Better go. Any ?'s ask tommorow.
Douglas
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BUMP.......I know a lot of circle track guys are restricted to 600 vs carbs. Any of you out there?
Douglas
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Howdy all.
I am going through the process of having my 350sbc rebuilt. We are looking at around 450hp at the crank. I currently own a 600 vac sec holley. This is in need of a rebuild and i was wondering if it can be modified to bring its performance up to whats needed for the new build? If so, what can you do to them and is it worth it? Failing that should i just buy a 750 double pumper and be done with it? I am thinking that the later option is the more logical. Anyone got a GOOD DOUBLE PUMPER for sale?
Cheers
Douglas
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ej20 turbos have been made since the late 80's. They dont need to be expensive.You can pick them up for less then $500 nz these days. I will messure the distance between the fame rails this afternoon on my z. Changing the spark plugs on a subaru is always a pain. Thats why the have super expensive plugs that dont need changing often.
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Supra 5 speed behind my 350sbc.
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We have taled about it before so there is a thread somewhere. It would have been a couple of years ago i think. I went and measured my wifes gt legacy at the time but its gone now so i cant help with measurements. The ej 25 is about 30 inches wide. Should be the same as the ej20. If you can get it to fit above the frame rails it might work.
Douglas
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I am in on a order if you go for one. Need some brakes and wouldnt mind getting rid of the strut isolaters on mine.
Douglas
New carb recommendations (NZR):
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
Tim,
want to sell the 750 dp? I need a larger carb for my Z. Have a 600 vs now. Doesnt do it for me.
Douglas