Jump to content
HybridZ

ZROSSA

Members
  • Posts

    882
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by ZROSSA

  1. Went fot a ride in one the other day. It scoots. The engine is the the latest version of the old Aussie straight six. They have been making it since the sixties at least. I think its actually based on a US design. Ford made a 250 ci straight six didnt they? It doesnt rev high but has a ton of grunt. I think it lighter that a v8 as well. Not shure about that though. The motoring writers always seem to prefer the handeling of the six to the v8 falcon.

     

    Douglas

  2. Thanks again,

    Very interesting, So buy the "sounds" of things instead if spliting the pulse in to 16 you are actually combining them in the secound set of x-pipes. Do you think a x- pipe into a y-pipe would get similar results? I am only looking for around 400 hp at the fly wheel so it think twin 3 incher is a bit much. I notice you say its not perfect, What would you do different next time? I find the whole concept of your exhuast very interesting, never come across it before and i have talked and searched a hell of a lot.

     

    Cheers

     

    Douglas

  3. Thanks for the reply Grumpy,

    I am still trying to get my head around the concept of the dual x-pipes. Does the first set create the vacum at the collecter then the second set work as a noise reducer? I was thinking that in 2 revolutions of the motor you would get 4 exhuast pulses at each collecter, The first x-pipe would even this out so you would almost get 8 smaller pulses in each pipe but spaced equally apart. Then you hit the next x-pipe and you could get 16 smaller pulses out of each pipe, this could posably make the exhuast sound a lot smother and posably quieter. Am I on the right track? Does your Vette sound like a v8 or a little more european?

     

    Cheers

     

    Douglas

  4. Rodger,

    Have you changed the locating points where the trailing arm meets the chassis? 3.5 inchs is a big drop for a semi trailing arm. I think you will need to get it set up do that you have very little camber at that ride height and then make it stiff so the camber curve cant change around. I saw a photo of a racing 510 that had the inner rear link made adjustable for up and down movement. May have been in "how to hot rod your datsun". I though about how to acheive the same adjustability youing rose joints for my race car but never came up with anything strong enough. I was trying to put a independant rear in my old corolla race car. I had a early 80's rear end out of a supra but in the end it was much easier and lighter to use a beam axel. I am not sugessting you do that. Your damper double or triple adjustable?

     

    Douglas

  5. Howdy Grumpy,

    Whats with the dual x-pipes? I dont see what it acomplishes? Does it sound better than a single x-pipe? I still cant decide to do a sigle pipe or duals with a x-pipe on my sbc. A lot of the Jet boat guys are begining to run BIG singles and same with some of the muscle car racers I know. I also know that the top trans am guys are running singles. What gives? :D

     

    Douglas

  6. Roger,

    This is going to depend on you applicaton of coarse. I away read that when road racing, cars with semi trailing arm rear suspension needed to be set up stiff to minimise the camber and toe changes that happen with that design. Some even went as far as changing the inner locating points to make it work more like a trailing arm then a semi trailing arm (Look at the rear of a RS500 or first gen M3). What I am getting at is that spring rate is depending on the extent of the modifications done already. If your locating point are standard then you may want it much stiffer then the front. Becuase the weight is neer 50/50 you will want to run aleast 25 lbs up on the front rates any way to stop a spring frequency imbalance. I would have a bit of a search around on bmw m3 sights and see what they run. Hopefully some of the guys here will have more specific info on the ZX.

     

    Cheers

     

    Douglas

  7. Aux,

    I dont think spring rate has anything to do with your ride height problem. The installed lenght of the spring is just to long. It sounds as though you have coil overs and i take it you are at the end of your ajustment. You just need shorter springs or modifiy how they are mounted. Lower the bottom spring purch, Get ride of the isolaters and run camber plates, Shorter springs with a helper spring, section the stuts and run a shorter spring. You could run a super soft spring but that wont cut it in the corners.

     

    Douglas

  8. Mike,

    I have a supra 5 speed behind my small block. W-55 Ithink its called. Was behind the 7m turbo supras. Bloody nice shifting trans and you could pick them up dirt cheep in the states. They are rated to 400 lbs torque from the factory, a lot more if you up grade some of the bearings (I think its only the tail shaft ones at that. You can get different shift remotes as well to place the shifter where you want it. I would guess that you could put it in a lot cheeper then the tremec.

     

    Douglas

  9. Jared, Sent you a pm. Thanks for the complement.

     

    Jon. From everything I have read the spoiler on the back can actually improve the aerodynamics (less drag) and provide down force. You cant see it from the photo but, on the spoiler I am making the working surface of the wing goes from the hatch to almost vertical. The sides work as end plates. I made it for funtion first and then blended it in to the body. It looks pretty good on the 2+2. Doesnt make it look so fat the the ass.

     

    Usually if you just add a wing you get more downforce and a increase in drag. I would love to put it into a wind tunnel to see yow it works but i think tell tales and a camera will have to do.

     

    Cheers

     

    Douglas

  10. Howdy,

    I would not even bother with a auto. Dont like them and wouldnt buy a car with one. But thats just me. I live in the country and have great roads all around to play on. I also have a 2+2. In N.Z they are a lot easyer to get hold of as they were imported as used imports from Japan. I do like the look of the coupe better but as many have said before me the 2+2 s are stronger. They already have full lenght chassis rails so the only real chassis improvements are a roll cage. Mine had a lot of rust in the roof so when I was fixing it i changed the transition point from the roof to the hatch a bit. I now has a lot less of the hockey stick look and is more like the coupe. Wish the factory had done it that way. There are some photos in my gallery but they are pretty old now. The car is now a friends getting molds made up and the body work finished. I will take more photos when there is visable progress.

     

    Douglas

  11. Got to agree with John on this one. For a road car it would be for looks only. In saying that, I have made up a buck for a rear diffuser like shape to go on the back of my z but it really only picks up from the fuel tank and follows that angle to the rear. Not very scientific but might stop some lift as aposed to creating down force. I had to trim about 2 in of the rear panel and i have made up a new fiberglass bumber like device. This is for a 2+2 s30. Probably wont fit the 2 seater.

     

    Douglas

  12. I may be a little old school but here are some ideas that would be cheep and still get you past the no sports car rule:

    Mazda r100 ,rx2, rx3, rx4,rx5, first rear wheel drive 323- rotary slots in

    Toyota any early corolla or celica. I would go for te55. basicly the same chassis as the ae86, slot in a 2.4 turbo out of the truck.

    What about a pinto or vega. The chev monza, loved the imsa ones.

    Btw the first of the fw drive corolla gts is the one to have. Much lighter and seemed to be faster around the race track then the later ones.

     

    Douglas

  13. Thanks again. The photos are a big help. They will do the trick. I just did a deal with a paint and body guy and the z is off to have its new body kit made up and get painted so I need to get a move on other bits. How far off equal length are they?

     

    Douglas

  14. Cool.

    Thanks Ryan. You still in Atlanta? Looks like I might be heading that way in april.

    I forgot to ask. Do you have these headers? If so how close to the block are they on the right hand side? Are they true equal lenght? What are the collecters like, Pressed, welded up, similar to a merge collecter? Wonder if I can get them withot collecters? Better e-mail S and S, eh!

     

    Douglas

  15. Howdy,

     

    Has anyone found any full length headers that fit the sbc in a s30 yet? The big problem for me is getting them around the steering column. This is on the right side on cars down under. I have small block huggers on now and they just fit. It looked like some headers made for a 55 - 57 chevy with a sbc in it might work. Anyone have any better ideas. I am looking at 1 5/8 or 1 3/4 ones. Btw my car is set up sort of half way between a scarab and jtr set up.

     

    Cheers

     

    Douglas

  16. CZ,

    Photo shop doesnt really do it any justice. Dont forget that whatever you do you need to stay with the same style to make it look like it should be there. The aston has smooth curve with no sharpe lines. The ZX has a lot of sharp lines and you will need to continue this to make it look right. When I had a ZX i thoght about cutting down and grafting a club sport nose on it. It would look pretty good and might be a easier place to start. Now that the c/dores are using slightly sharper lines you might be able to pick up a spoiler from a body kit and make it work well.

     

    Douglas

×
×
  • Create New...