MaximumHP

I have a 73 Shell with: Solid body, some rust, mostly surface. Sub frames Welded in bolt in roll cage LSx motor and tranny mounts spare tire well preped for fuel cell Rolling chasis, includes mechanicals Can include 72 dash, wiring, seats, etc with this Located near Green Bay, WI Looking for around $800 obo photo gallery: http://img69.imageshack.us/g/pict0015l.jpg/

I bought a special blade made specifically for cutting aluminum (or any soft metal), it has some modified tooth angle or something for soft metals. Cuts through like butter. Like mentioned above I use wax on the blade as a lubricant. You can use a regular blade too I've heard...

Thanks for the pictures. I have the exact same welder and this is making me think about trying this out.

What do you want for the body? Save me a whole year of work. I'm local too.

I could use those floors and rockers...

Wow, very impressive project, great work!

I think your right hoov100, I'll need the whole thing blasted. If the rockers weren't so bad I wouldn't be so concerned. the trans tunnel and roof is about the only thing holding the front and back together.

Very little. I was hoping to make my own floors and make rails/subframe connectors from tube steel and lots of my free time.

A while ago I got a couple 240’s and tons of parts and finally brought one home on Friday. I live in WI and the car spent most of it’s life in Chicago. It’s got some pretty bad rust down low, but I’ve seen some pretty bad stuff restored on here, so tell me what you think, restorable, or more work than it’s worth. Just looking to get an idea of what I’m getting into before undertaking this. Am I OK to drive this as is with the frame rails and rockers so bad? Below are some pics: Floor boards: Some pretty good holes, all rust, they will have to go for sure. Rockers: The guy cut the outside off, so this is what it looks like on the inside of the rockers. It’s running short on good metal to weld to. Frame Rails: On the passengers side I can wiggle the end of the frame rail with my hands. The rusty chunk in the picture is what’s left of the frame rail Undercoating is cracked and bulging, so likely there is ton’s of rust under there. Rear Quarters: The last guy cut out the rust and hacked in these panels. I think what he’s got is salvageable. There’s some other rust around this area, but nothing too terrible. I have full rear quarters the guy gave me if I need them. The good news is forward of the firewall things look OK except the right side strut tower has some rust. Under the cowl, battery tray area, upper rails under fenders, and front frame rails all look OK. Rear hatch deck looks OK, there is some pretty decent rusting going on around the fuel filler tube (Can I get to this from underneath?) Car:

Parts are looking nice. I hear ya on the weather, need some decent weather to get mine home and start working on it.

Looks very nice, good job! Kinda OT, but what kind of steering wheel are you using?

Does Hagerty have a plan so you can drive it around town and stuff too.

I have this on my to-do list in the future. I was going to monitor the two carbs separately. I only have one sensor and planned to swap between two bungs. Might not be necessary, but I'm anal. Kinda OT, but what kinda ratios are you shooting for?

Unless you have a trailer queen that's a little restrictive.

What do most of you have for insurance on your Z. I plan to put mine on the road this summer, so have started looking around. My options appear to be: 1.) Normal insurance through typical company. I can have the vehicle appraised to determine value (not necessarily agreed upon) 2.) Use collector car insurance with an agreed value, but have some limitations, and modifications get a little fuzzy then for coverage. 3.) sport/hobby car insurance, which is pretty much like collector car, but more tailored towards hobbyist cars and corvettes and stuff that don't fall under collectable (typically due to age), but are still limited use, mostly cars for enjoyment rather than transportation. Not that it will ever compare with a Hemi Road Runner or anything, but there is some value in the difficulty in finding a series 1 complete in good condition. For example, what if someone breaks into my series 1 and ruins my dash trying to steal the radio, or someone just bumps into me ruining both bumpers, or hatch glass gets broken etc. Even though the car as a whole isn't worth that much, parts of it are. The other side of the coin is modifications. What if it gets totaled with a LS1 and 6 speed in there. Do you get coverage for the extra replacement costs? There's also the racing aspect as well, which most don't cover I know. Anyway, just some thoughts running through my head. What are your experiences or suggestions?

Mine needs the same treatment, hope it turns out that well. Nice job!

I get their e-mail coupons, and they seem to have about the best prices you can get if you know what your looking for (Not all are good deals, but some are).

I'll have to see if I can find those ruggles some where. I don't think I'd weigh enough "hanging" stuff to justify 300+ bucks, although I agree it's the way to go. Honestly I figured something like this existed cheap, just that I couldn't find it. I can come up with something for that for a couple instances where it's needed.

I've never seen those ruggles, but they are pretty nice. Here's sort of how I had done it in the past (not my car or picture). Here's what I was thinking I'd do with a scale like the one I posted, similar but probably something I could drive onto: use spacers on the onther wheels, roll the car on the scale, get the number, roll it back, move scale, repeat. I don't know about engine. Even a pad that size might be tricky to get an engine to sit on it.

I didn't mean to sound pissed off or anything, just didn't think people cared that much or knew of a cheap scale. In the past I've gone to the dump and drove on the scale to check my weight, but I don't think they like that really and if the car isn't driveable... I have used bathroom scales too, but my last car was so heavy I had to 1/3 the weight with a lever and that means 3 times the error, and if the car wasn't sitting on the lever just right or the lever on the scale introduced error, was cumbersome etc. I was going to make shims and shift the scale from the link from wheel to wheel to get total weight.

No one seems to care, but this isn't too bad if you are looking for a scale: http://www.amazon.com/Siltec-WS-1000L-High-Capacity-Scale/dp/B00029P3PG Move it around from wheel to wheel car weight or throw an engine/trans on it, etc.

I've been trying to find a cheap scale that can measure up to around 500lbs, preferably up to 1000. I'd be happy with +or- 10 lbs, maybe even 20 lbs. They exist for 500+ bucks, possibly as cheap as 300, but I'd like to find something in the neighborhood of $100. Ideally, I'd like a flat floor scale if something exists and I would be willing to pay more for something like that. But I was hoping there was something cheap at least in a hanging spring scale, like in the old school barns, something simplistic, approximate, but functional, and likely repeatable at least. I'm thinking they must exist, but can't find anything. -Eric

I was planning to make one, but figured if you were ditching yours save me the time. No problem. I'm in Appleton, some time we should hook up, I'd like to see your project. (saw it in some other subforum on here) (Sorry to the OP for the OT discussion)

Where you located in WI? I'll be needing one of these in spring...