ktm

I periodically check in to see what's up. I agree with Derek about the death of forums like Hybridz. This place has/had a wealth of knowledge and incredibly helpful members. Sold my Z a few years back and recently entered the P-car world.

Thanks! I thought I recognized the name bidding. The buyer already contacted me, but the sale is not complete until the funds are transferred. For those curious, the car "sold" at $19k.

Don't know yet, my wife was asking the same question. I am done with Zs for now, but am thinking of doing an electric conversion of some sort. I don't know yet.

The time has come to sell my car and I have listed it on Bring A Trailer. The auction is NOW LIVE at the following link: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-88/ Spread the word if you know people who are looking for such a swap.

I can only talk about street use. I bought a B&M oil cooler when I was doing my build 8 years ago.....and never installed it. It the car is for street use, you will not need one. A good radiator with the appropriate frontal area blockage will keep the engine very cool. All I did was block the large holes in the core support save for where my CAI enters from the passenger side. I never see anything over 190 degrees unless I am in stop and go traffic.

What trackzpeed stated. I am using the JCI kit with my 4L60E and the mount is, quite honestly, simple. It is a bar that runs through the transmount with holes on either side. You drill through the floor pans and then use the two plates that come with the kit (that have bolts/allthread) welded to them.

JCI's kit is tried and tested. No welding, all bolt-in, and there are numerous installs using it. I don't believe that the JCI kit allows the use of the recent long tube headers, but unless you are at the point where you are chasing EVERY LAST HORSEPOWER, the shorties from JTR are more than fine. With that said, the Hybridz mantra is still in effect......there is no best.

When I was running 245/50s I had to trim the spring perch just a tad to allow clearance (the tires came with the wheels from a Hybridz member). With my 245/45s and the stiffer sidewall, I do not have the tire bulge and probably would not have had to trim the perch.

Although s30 wear seventeen's very well, the suspension is crucial. It really relies on the tire profile to help absorb all the smaller bumps. I'm got fairly stiff sidewall tires, then with a standard ToKico spring setup my Z crashes over bumps.

Correct. The coilovers are what allowed him to run 275s along with a higher positive offset wheel. Everything else (wheel offset, 5 lug conversion, etc.) just plays with the effective offset.

Mine is mounted on the firewall right at the passenger's feet. I have my supplemental EFI power center (ancillary fuse box, relays, etc.) right above it where others mount their PCM. I was able to use the stock GM harness in this location as well.

Correct, 16x8 +10. The whole issue of stuffing more tire under your car is more than just tire width. Even Clifton had the same issue with his car. It is a combination of tire width, the tire itself (they are not all the same), and wheel specs. A 16x8 +0 will not support 245's without flares. Granted, I am running +10mm spacers in the front (which makes mine +0 effectively) for brake clearance, but the rears won't work. Clifton was running higher positive offset wheels to stuff 275s without flares. You can't push the wheel out, you need to suck it back by running higher positive offset wheels.

I am running 245/45 R16 Bridgestone Potenza RE11s on my car. I do not have fender flares and I have stock (well, Tokico springs) suspension. I also have an LS1 with 370 gears.

A bit late, but something like these? They were selling from a vendor in the Phillipines for like $80 a pair.

Smart man, doing it off the car. When I first installed my WC kit, I thought it was only going to take me a few hours to do both sides......8 hours and many puncture wounds later I had them installed.