Zmanco

Steve, are there any references that support the claims from independant sources without financial interests in the process that you can point me towards? I've heard and read of the benefits of increased parts durability before, but they always read, at least to me, just like the claims for the miracle widgets that automatically give you 25% better fuel economy in your engine, or the widgets that give your cell phone antenna greater range just by applying their sticker to the battery. Not trying to start an arguement with you as I know quite a few people who believe in these processes. Just trying to learn more about the sources of the claims.

I am very suspicious of these claims. The cryogenic processes I have seen advertised for this slowly reduce the temperature, hold it for some period of time (hours, or maybe a day) and then slowly bring it back up to room temp. This by itself is NOT going to improve hardness of the metal. The lower the temperature of a substance, the LESS mobile the atoms/molecules become. This is not going to cause them to align, or otherwise become harder. It will llighten your wallet. I have yet to see any experiments subjected to peer review and/or reproduced by those without a financial interest in the process that support the claims. All I have seen are stories that are "one offs" i.e. I have friend who did this to his cam, and since he didn't have any problems, that proves it works. To Jon's point earlier, save your money. That's my $.02.

That's exactly what my previous valve train sounded like. Now I wish I had checked the wipre before I took the cam out. I'm curious what the wipe pattern would have looked like.

I had them resurfaced.

Ha! I was about to use a sharpie myself, but not having done this before, figured I should do it the "right way". Could have saved myself a trip to Napa...

Wow, I fired the motor up tonight to break the cam in and was amazed at how quiet the valve train is compared to my old cam. I forgot how nice the L6 is! Unfortunately she's still on stands waiting for a replacement strut, so I don't get to try out my handiwork But in a few days... And a hearty thanks to all of you on this board who share your experience. For a person like me who "plays" with his car on the weekends, there's no way I could accomplish the improvements I've achieved without this group's advice and assistance. This is without a doubt the best of the Z boards out there!

Karl, The most likely issue is that you have the diode in backwards. Double check that and I'll guess that will solve it. Let us know how it goes.

Thanks Chuckie, I was drawing the top line farther up the pad, and was worried if I ever had my valves too tight, they might hit before the pad, and bye bye cam.

I'm getting ready to install my reground cam and as this is the first time I'm doing this, wanted to get inputs to see what you think of the wipe pattern? These are from two different lobes and lash pads. Cam is a 284/.480 regrind from Delta Cams, and the lash pads are 0.180. Edit: I forgot to set the valve lash before I took the original pictures. Here are the wipe patterns with an exhaust on the left, intake on the right. Lash is .010 exhaust, .008 intake (cold of course ) I'm worried it's a bit too close to the top.

Check out the sticky in the brakes section, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=104735. It lists all the specifics on which years, etc. I would be very cautious of using the pads that came in "loaded" calipers. I'm guessing they are generics designed for mildly driven cars. I had a pair of Napa generics I put in my S12-8 calipers. I put them on Friday night before a track day since I didn't have time for good pads to be shipped. At the end of the day (5 sessions) I had almost no pad material left. Not bad for 100 miles. BTW, I have those calipers available - PM me if you're interested.

My experience is all with the early Zs, so I'm afraid I can't help you much on the fit with later 280s. BTW, just clicked on your "My Z" link. Please tell me you made up the 154.8 dB SPL figure.

It makes a big difference to your diameter in that now you're a calculated 0.1" smaller than stock. That's completely insignificant. Depending on how soft your rear springs are, and which brand of tire you choose, you may have some small rubbing between the outer edge of the tire and the inner lip of the rear fender when going over big bumps/dips. The tire width number, 225 in this case, is the maximum width of the tire, not the width of the tread. The old 215 Goodyears I took off were just as wide as the 225 Yokohamas I put on. Those wheels do look pretty sharp! But what's up with the 8 holes for the wheel studs?

Here's a spreadsheet I built when I was planning my wheels and tires. The Error column is compared to the original stock tire that came on the 240Z. Change the values in the first row for those of you with a different size stock tire. Tire sizes - 240z.zip

In theory your offset should work out to +1 mm which is close enough to stock (zero) to not matter. Your backspace should be ok too with the stock suspension (I have 16x7 zero offset panasports that don't rub with 225/50-16 rubber). But ... I wouldn't want to run both adapters AND spacers with 17" rims. I think keeping everything trued up so you don't have any runout will be tough, especially as you put some miles on your rims and they get deformed. I'd be more concerned about your tire diameter. You're going to be about 1.2" smaller than stock, which will make your speedometer read 5% high. You have to decide if the smaller-than-stock diameter is what you want. It will be a harsher ride than you currently have, and a large pothole WILL bend or damage your rim if you hit it straight on. That thin rubber band look is not my first choice, but I know many who like that look on a Z. Plus you get an immediate 5% improvement in your final drive ratio, meaning a little better acceleration off the line. Just a few things to consider...

SR240Z, I'm interested in your brackets. You have a PM from me.

Those are capacitors. The one next to the VR helps protect the contacts of the old mechanical relays when they open from arcing as much. The one next to the coil does the same thing for the mechanical points, although on my '73 it was located on the outside of the distributor. Secondarily they help reduce ingintion noise from being heard on the radio. If you go with an electronic ignition and internal VR in the later ZX alternator, you can remove them both. I've done both those upgrades, don't have either of those caps anymore, and have no ignition noise on my stereo.

I have had fumes issues for years as well, and have done everything listed on this site and others, and just couldn't get rid of them. The strange thing was that some days it was great, and other days it was horrible. It finally dawned on me that perhaps it was due to the hatch frame flexing on the hatch seal. After a lot of trial and error, I finally landed up adjusting both the latch and striker so that it now closes without needing to be slammed and also without being loose when I try wiggling it. The result is that the fumes are gone almost always now. So the lesson learned is that the hatch seal is sensitive to how much pressure is placed on it by the hatch frame, and the alignment/adjustment of the latch/striker is far more critical than I expected. In any event, that's what finally solved it for me.

Look at his feedback. 99.3% isn't anything to be proud of on ebay. And the first negative is: Unresponsive seller. Sent wrong rotors. Called twice and emailed three times. He's obviously placed this kind of misleading/inaccurate auction before.

You're right, my bad, that's what I get for typing part numbers from memory

No, you are refering to the S12. The S12-W use vented rotors and need spacers.

I have a set of non-vented S12 calipers (if you're going to stay with solid rotors) with only a few thousand miles on them in excellent condition. PM me if you're interested and I'll give you details.

I had a '93 325 which was tons of fun once I put a Dinan stage III suspension package on it (stiffer springs, struts, bars, and lots of neg camber). With the stock suspension it's too soft. The iS package is a good compromise, but if you're serious about handling, it's not going to make you happy. Also, keep in mind that BMW parts aren't cheap, although not as bad as Porsche. I've had 3 BMWs and not one of them made it past 80k miles with the original water pump. Lastly, I don't know what used prices are like, but I think it was either '92 or '93 when the 2.5 liter engine picked up variable valve timing. It didn't change the max HP, but it gives lots more torque in the midrange. For autocrossing I would especially suggest you do what you need to do to get one with it. The non-variable valve engine is pretty torque deficient. BTW, what is a DSM? Good luck!

That's what the factory used '77 - '80 IIRC. If you use the stock dished pistons, CR is 8.3 w/stock head gasket.

Two things come to mind: 1) Did you bench bleed the MC before installing it? If not, I don't think you are ever going to get all the air out of it, no matter how many times you bleed at the wheels. I just swapped a 15/16" into my '73 and it took a long time on the bench to get rid of all the bubbles. And the hose popped off a few times spraying brake fluid all over. Quite a mess, but the good news is the pedal has been firm since. 2) Assuming you did bench bleed, have you bedded the pads in yet? I would NOT recommend you do that until you're sure you have everything bled properly, but brand new pads can feel squishy/soft for a little while until they are bedded in (if that's a term). You can speed this process up by doing a series of 5 or 6 gradual but firm stops from 50 mph. There's nothing magic about that speed, you just don't want to go too fast and overheat the brakes. This helps get some of the new pad material embedded on the surface of the rotors as well as help the pads conform to the surface of the rotors. That's where I'd start.

No, don't think so. The sound is completely dependant on the throttle position. It's only present from around 20% to 50% if I had to guess. Foot off the gas, or at WOT the sound disappears.