Zmanco

What color was the smoke last night?

I'm not sure how I would accurately measure at the roof top, but the height from the bottom of the rockers to the ground is: Just behind front wheel: 6 1/8" Just in front of rear wheel: 6 1/2"

My own experience with other cars is that adding negative camber results in the front end tracking ruts. Did you experience that when the road ISN'T smooth?

gvincent, you can usually find them on ebay, or get them from MSA. I've only seen one size which is 1". I'll guess that is because 1" is the typical drop from stock ride height when people install lowering springs. If you want to experiment, do like I did and just change your springs and struts and try it. It's a pain to put them in later, but it can be done, just don't let any women and children be nearby to hear all the cursing.

http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission.html 4400 rpm in 5th with 195/70-14 tires = ~120 mph

OTM, are the pictures how the car was set up when you had it 120 and it was scary? Just trying to understand if the airdam in the pictures or something else was on the car at that time.

This clip was from the earlier part of the session and I was still getting comfortable with my car at speed and the track. This was my first day out on a track after changing just about everything: springs, struts, brakes, engine, diff. My main goal was to have fun and drive it home that night. I agree, I watch it now and see so many things I want to do differently the next time I'm on it. And next time won't come soon enough!

Mine is a Panavise 809. I think it was about $35 online. It's good for a smaller camera, isn't big enough for large one. Just mounts on the passenger window with a suction cup.

Sorry Ryan, I wish I had! LSD is doing great now that it's broken in and I've become used to it. I highly recommend it, just realize you're going to have to deal with a push on initial turn-in when on the throttle. I'll be working on improving that next spring.

Just tripped across this thread again, for some reason I didn't get any emails that someone had replied. JessZ: as Darrel said, she was not used to driving the 350 hard. But I will say that after comparing notes with a few of the 350z drivers, we agreed that coming out of the turns in 2nd gear, I was pretty much dead even in acceleration. I think they might have an edge at higher speeds due to aero factors though. My engine is an L28: - N42 block - flat top pistons - N42 head, gasket porting only - 284/284 .480" cam - triple webers - MSD ignition - MSA headers and 2 1/2" exhaust Haven't been to a dyno since the rebuild so have no idea of power.

Search my friend: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116582

OTM, do you have anything up front besides the stock valence? I ask because I had the same kind of experience as you (albeit with less HP) until I added the BRE-style spook. Made a HUGE difference at freeway speeds, and was even noticable to a smaller degree at 40 mph. Last weekend I was on a track and saw 110+ on the straight before braking. I had no issues with wandering, front end lift, etc. I know the spook isn't everyone's favorite front end look, but I think putting SOMETHING up front to disrupt airflow under the car should be a requirement for anyone who even gets close to triple digit speed in an S30.

I don't think any of these are works of art, but every one of them makes me smile ... Credit to PrOxLaMus for giving me some good material to work with on the last two.

HP = (TQ x rpm) / 5250 200 lbft @ 2000 rpm = 76 hp 270 lbft @ 4000 rpm = 206 hp I'm sure the torque curve is still rising (or at least not falling) beyond 4k, so who knows what max HP is.

FWIW, last summer I had them regrind a cam and resurface rockers. I have been thrilled with the results. In fact, they told me what lash pads to order so I'd have those when the cam arrived. I really didn't expect them to be right, but I figured it was a good place to start so ordered a set from Courtesy Nissan. After checking the wipe and validating I was reading it correctly with the experts here, I put it all together. The lash pads were ok for all 12. My valve train has been wisper quiet for over 2k miles now, and those have not been easy miles either. I highly recommend Delta Cams for anyone considering a bigger cam for a street driven L series. Much cheaper than the new cam route via MSA too. They even threw in a free t-shirt!

Thanks David, I'm not real familiar with the Hawk pads. Are the HP+ a street or track pad? Since they are only for the rear, I'm not too worried with a track pad back there. How are they on the street besides noisy?

I had my new brake set up out on a track finally. I'm running the vented Toyota 4x4 calipers in front and 240SX in rear. I have Axxis metal master pads at both ends. We did a few accident avoidance exercises at the begining of the day and I was locking my fronts without ever locking the rears. This was mostly once the speed was below 30 mph though, so not sure if I just wasn't being agressive enough at higher speeds. I have a proportioning valve in the rear and it's all the way open. On the track the brakes held up quite well. No fade, consistent pedal for the whole day. Still, I think I could use some more rear brake bias as I never once locked the rears, even with the fronts fully locked (This happened when I picked up a 200+ lb passenger for my first ride along of the day - I guess I had been closer to the limit of my braking distance than I realized ). A thought I had was to try a different pad material in the rear with a higher coefficient of friction. Of course, not all the pad manufacturers list their values, so it's not going to be as easy as I had hoped. I found Ferodo values at http://www.raceshopper.com/ferodo_compounds.shtml. I saw the DS3000 Plus is 0.68 which is about as high as I've found. I'm wondering if anyone has done any experimenting with pad materials to balance the front rear braking with a setup like mine? If so, what pads did you try? What did you learn? Also, what do you think of the Ferodo DS3000 Plus for street use? Is it going to be terrible until warm?

I found my 4.11 from a 720 pickup in a JY in Coloroado Springs. I used http://www.car-part.com to locate it.

I went along with a local group of 350Z owners to Pueblo Motorsports yesterday. Here's my first attempt at an in-car video. It was a great day, and a really fun track. I need to improve the initial turn-in, but other than that, she ran well, came home in one piece, and nothing looks to be worn or damaged (except the tires ) http://media.putfile.com/240Z-at-Pueblo-Motorsports

Dtsnlvrs, you have a setup very similar to mine. I live a little higher at 6000+. My carbs are set up as follows: Main jets: 115 Air corrector: 190 Idle jets: 45F6 Pump jet: 45 Emulsion tube: F11 Starter Jet Fuel: 60F5 Pump Spill/Drain: 50 Aux venturi: 4.5 Chokes: 32 mm I have an L28 with flat tops pistons, N42 head, 284/284 .480" cam, headers, etc. I'm running a 4.11 diff with the later (82) 5 speed, and the combination is great. I think you'll enjoy your new diff. BTW, I'm still playing around with the mains and air correctors. I may be able to go up a size or 2 on the air correctors but it seems to change depending on the day. Do you have an O2 sensor? If not, you should consider adding one. My butt-o-meter is not able to feel the subtle differences when going lean at WOT.

Gary, thanks for the comments - the previous car I had with an LSD had a setup where it was totally transparent, so I'm not sure what's normal with this one. I can say that the change in willingness to turn based on throttle is far more than just weight transfer. It happens at speeds slow enough (35mph) where all 4 tires are completely within the limits of their grip. The diff I have came from a 720 pickup, so I can't vouch for the early R180 and this LSD. Of the 2 that Powerbrute sells for R180s, I ordered the latter. The ring gear fit perfectly on the LSD.

I have not seen a float bowl drain system before. But if I had your issue, I would be focused on removing the source of the contamination rather than creating a more convenient way to drain it. You may have water in your gas tank, and once that begins to rust you're going to have a mess that no amount of carb draining is going to solve.

I took this from the Stoptech article Jon referenced earlier. This is a typical curve for a prop valve, with the knee of the curve set for~600 psi in this example. As I understand it, when you turn the knob on the prop valve, you are changing the point at which the knee occurs, but you do not change the slope of the curve after it - that is preset. If the pressure to cause lockup was always the same, regardless of temperature in the brakes, speed at any given second, etc, then I could imagine making this work by adjusting the prop valve so that the fronts would lock up just after the rears. This would be a safe system, although maybe not the best performing since in this example, we still wouldn't have the optimum rear brake pressure except at the point of lock up. BUT here's what I think the issue is in using a prop valve in the front: I very much doubt that the lockup pressure is always the same. I'm sure it moves around a lot based on the variables I mentioned, along with tire temp, stickiness of the track, etc. I can easily imagine there would be conditions where the "stick" of the tires was better than usual, and under these conditions it would take a higher pressure to lock the brakes. But since at this point you are on the right side of the knee on the curve, you are going to build rear pressure FASTER than the front, which means you are likely to lock your rears first under these conditions. I think that's the point Stoptech is making in their writeup. Having said all that, I am tempted to try an experiment of moving the prop valve into the front circuit. If I leave it all the way open, then I should have the same situation I have today where my fronts always lock first. I wonder if turning it down JUST A LITTLE might give me some improvement but still leave enough margin that the fronts always lock first? My guess is that it might help a litte. Plus, if the rears lock first, how is that different from a traditional system with an adjustable prop valve that is just adjusted with too much bias to the rear? Pete, you are the only person I've ever seen try this and am encouraged by your positive review, although still wary based on what I understand (and wrote) above. I feel conflicted so I'm going to think on this one for a while more.

I have a similar situation. I had thought about swapping the prop valve into the front circuit, but I remember a thread not too long ago that said this was dangerous, at least for the street. I believe the thinking was in a panic stop, you would lock the rears before the fronts, while at anything less than that, you would still have too much front bias. Have you had any issues like that? And how much of an improvement in stopping was there compared to before the swap?

I suppose I could go to a cable setup, but what I have works well-enough. I just want to put a little longer rod on to reduce the throttle sensitivity. You can't see it from this angle, but the throttles on the carbs would move less at tip in of the pedal if the rod was about 1-2 inches shorter. It's not a big deal, just one of those little things that would make it easier to drive smoothly in traffic and parking lots. I'm heading by a guy with a lot of old parts tomorrow. Perhaps he has a spare rod. That would give me 2 threaded ends and then I would just need the metric all-thread.