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Rayven14

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Everything posted by Rayven14

  1. Well I'm still looking for a set of the fiberboard panels (with holes) so I can make a template, that way if Peter Paul or Mary wants holes ... bada bing bada boom... HOLES! Unfortunately as of right now I don't have a template so I wont be shipping any panels with holes in them. Of course all things happen in time, so stay tuned
  2. Okie dokei folks,... finally started the second mold for the "Speaker Door Panels" got the pod bonded into place. I'll let it cook over night and start foaming and sanding a basic shape tommorrow and with any luck I should have a viable mold sometime next week..? More to come next week!!!
  3. Dan, Na, Im 2 hours and 115 miles from windsor. But if shes willing to come pick em up? sure why not?
  4. Anyone local to the San Francisco area? preferably San Jose, I wanna make sure I get all the clearance issues taken care of before I actually make the mold for the "Speaker Door Panel" Also, I made 5 sets of the "Factory" door panels. The one pictured is shipping today, another is being cut up and frankensteined back together with the speaker pod and I have three others for sale.
  5. Well I figured I would sale em for $1,000,000,000 but later realized that wasnt so good so I lowered the price to $250 for a set
  6. Bill seph, Great info,.. thaank you. Now I need one more measurement... I know I know. How tall/proud is the window regulator gear. The use of a straight edge should give you a pretty accurate measurement. However, also take into consideration where the panel is mounted. Does that make sense? Pics would be great also.
  7. Hey guys... I'm kinda waiting on those measurements before I start the other panels. More specifically I need to know the height of the window regulator / crank and the door pull location (measurements) Thanks folks.
  8. so whats the height of the window regulator gear 1/2 or 3/4 or so?
  9. Ok I need help with some measurements, apparently I forgot to measure the hole for the door pull. So from the front (flat area) of the door I need to know the measurements for the door pull... and from the bottom of the door ... basically I need precise measurements as to where to cut the hole. In addition, I need to know the location of the window crank.... ya know, a measurement from the bottom of the door and the front of the door... kinda of an x marks the spot kinda thing. I also need to know the height of the window crank as Im starting these panels from scratch and dont want to make a panel that doesnt clear the power window pulley. Thank folks
  10. Good news!!! and kinda sorta bad news. Ok so the pins for attaching the door panels are in fact a GM bumper clip/pin/fastener. I cant locate any info on the guy I purchased them from but I do have a few dozen laying around here and there. So after a little searching I came up with this: http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/SearchResults.asp?searching=Y&sort=13&search=gm&show=45&page=1&cat=151 It the fourth row dead center. So the pins are 1 3/4 long with a 5/16th diameter pin and a 3/4 head. They completely replace the old hook style pins that came with the car and are much easier to install IMO. So once you get everything lined up, drill out new (say 7/16th holes) install your new pins (you may wanna tape them in place so the upholstery guy doesnt lose em) get em covered and pop em in place. These pins are far superior to anything that came from the factory... Trust me!!!!
  11. ZTR, I will cut the speaker hole opening, thats a pretty standard size - I went to a local stereo shop the first time I made panels for my 510 and I noted that your everyday sony speaker was the same size mounting diameter as your high end Nakamichi. So I'll cut that hole as well as the door pull hole...those are all in the same location so thats not a big deal. As far as drilling for the push pins, I know I drilled out quite a few before shipping in the past, but that was when I had a half of a door that I could clamp the panel to so the holes lined up perfect for the end user. I dont have that door anymore but the panels themselves are opaque so you can drill them out according to your own application Rags, it wont be a big deal to drill em out... once you get the top metal part bonded to the lower fiberglass part... it all kinda lines up and you can just drill em out with your cordless Nelsonian, Thank you! I appreciate positive feedback and it means alot to me that I am able to produce a quality product. Im gonna have to find that link for those pins.... hold on a minute ...or two.
  12. Joe, Nope, not at all. Fiberglass is very very very strong! so there is no need to reinforce the speaker ring itself. Those little clips that come with your speakers will be more than enough to support the speaker. Once I get the other molds done Ill snap a picture of myself standing on top the the door panel right where the speaker mount is .... I go between 210- and 225 at my heaviest and I can stand on these things with no problem at ALL!!!
  13. Okay..... Got the plug all sanded, sealed and waxed and polished. Gonna try to lay up some glass tommorrow or the next day, let the mold cure and cool and then start a run of the factory panels. Sometime next week Ill start the panels with the 6.5 speaker provisions. So far so good!
  14. More Pics ... for those of you on the fence.
  15. Okie dokie folks, I got the plug for the factory flat panels done, just have to let em breathe a bit (gas off) wet sand, polish, seal, wax wax wax and wax before I start the mold then its on to the panels with speaker provisions. Which is similar to the process above only I'll have a much better platform to start with. Any hoot I know How we all like pics ...
  16. Plaster is a NO GO! Its very pourous so when the resin dries it actually is impregnated into the plaster and there is no way your getting that apart. IMO your gonna have to make a fiberglass mold with a gel coat finish. If properly prepared your mold should have a mirror like finish making it non pourous and your parts should literally fly outta the mold with little effort. However, if mold making were easy... all of us would be doing it. Honestly, its something you gotta love!
  17. Okay couple of things: Ive made a bit of progress... pics attached. Those panels that were donated (although a great starting platfrorm) were hammered! I bondo'ed and sanded and bondo'ed and sanded and WOW!!!! finally got em to a point where they are almost perfect. I go back and fourth with more bondo and more sanding and for petes sake good enough there door panels!!! Any hoots here are a few pics made good progress, got em pretty smooth but honestly Im not totally happy with the results. Im feelin like more bondo and more sanding. who knows! Panel attachment: I found a great source for push pins to attach the panels, Ill post his info tommorrow ...cuz I left it in my office by accident.
  18. Well now Im confused, why are the 280 guys always complaining that they get left out in the cold. Ok so let me get this straight. The lower panels are the same for the 240 260 and 280Z through 1978?
  19. So if I were gonna make a set of fiberglass door panels for the 280Z I would need a set to get started with. Anyone local (To the San Francisco Bay area) and interested in donating a set for the cause! I can of course make them with and without speaker provisions. Anyone got a pic of the 280Z panel, kinda wanna know what Im gettin into.
  20. I was going to suggest buying them and making molds but if a set already exist... why bother. Interest would be a factor also
  21. Well like I said, they're not much to look at but so far so good.
  22. Well the panels were in fact "Hammered beyond all belief" but with a little work I'm pretty confident I'll be able to pull a good mold. I managed to get there seams back together (they were in fact in two halves) glue and screw em to another board and shim the edges and corners... to get em straight and as stiff as possible. So .... so far so good. I'll post a few pics tommorrow although it wont be much to look at.
  23. No I dont have a mold for the 280, one would have to be made ... which I can do if enoughinterest in generated
  24. what does interested mean? ready to drop a deposit? I would also need to borrow a set of doors. Are the 240 and 260 doors the same? I know the 280 is a completely different animal. Someone local to the San Francisco bay would be best for borrowing those doors ....dman those things are heavy!!!!
  25. Honestly I'm sure I can make a mold from a factory door and start producing doors and skins BUT! if there isnt a market for it... I wouldnt want to spend the time or money for just a few pieces.
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