Lewis Maudlin
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Posts posted by Lewis Maudlin
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Thanks. That was what I was wondering. Whether or not there was pressure other than gravity. My overheating problems should be solved because I put a new thermostat in my car. The other would open most of the time at high temps. Most of the time isn't quite often enough, huh. Thanks again.
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I torched my engine the other day. My thermostat stuck and the stock gauge chose not to work that day. I now have autometer gauges. I am still worried that my car will get too hot this summer when I turn the AC on. I think that I need a puke tank to keep fluid levels up when the thermostat opens. Where do I put it? Any good suggestions. Does that coolant tank have to be higher than the radiator? If so, is there anyplace close to the radiator to put it? Thanks.
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I run AC and it was easy. I just hooked a Chevy compressor into the Datsun AC system. You have to fab a lot of brackets and links but other than that, it's so easy to be cool when you are driving a Z.
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Hey, I also posted this under wheels. Anyway, Z racing wheels are $199/set at Sears for 14" and $249/set for 15" any style. Does anyone know anything about these? Thanks.
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Does anyone know anything about the Zracing wheels sold at Sears? They are $199 a set on sale now for 14" and $249 a set for 15" for any style. Seems like a great deal especially considering the "Z racing" centercaps. Help, the sale last through the end of the week.
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I had a 700R4 in my 260 until I put the Edelbrock Performer RPM package on my engine. Now, I can rip out a stock 700R4 in about 20 miles. I have had to order the Raptor 700R4 for about $1700.
http://www.transmissioncenter.net/highperf700r4.htm
I am putting out around 400hp and loads of torque. The stock 700R4 just wouldn't hold. Also, if you get a 700R4 you may need a stall converter. Ask around. Most guys here feel it is a necessity.
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OK, I have finally decided to fork out the dough for a new 700R4. My old one died because of too much hp. I am thinking of buying the Raptor for $1600. Seems high. Any input is appreciated. Thanks.
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A little sarcasm, you must be new Cerebus... Anyway, my limited understanding was that the torque converter only locked up when out of the stall range. A 2300 rpm torque converter would lock up at 2300 rpm. Is that incorrect? With the electronic lockup will it lockup anytime you hit the switch? Also, a guy was wanting to build one with a valve to "bypass" the torque converter. The benefits are obviously that I would not have to have the wiring kit that has to be linked to the brake etc. What are the drawback? Will this cause the torque converter to never lock up? Will this generate excess heat? Will this cause decreased gas mileage? Thanks. Lewis
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OK, still having problems with my 700R4. I am just about to say forget it, and buy a heavy duty custom built one. If anyone knows any good source for a reliable 700R4 capable of handling a 400hp sbc, let me know. THE QUESTION IS: I have found a 700R4 with a 2300 stall converter. At what speed will I be out of stall in fourth gear with stock ZX 14" aluminum 6 spokes and a 3.55 rear end? Anyone out there a math wiz? Thanks.
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I would not go with an all aluminum radiator. They run fine for as long as they last, but they are not made for the street. They are made for the track where they are replaced at least once a year. If you plan on replacing yours frequently, I am sure an all aluminum will do fine. The Camaro radiator works great. The way to find one is to go to any radiator shop and ask for a Modine 952. Modine discontinued making them, but every other company out there says theirs is the same as a Modine 952. Just my 2 cents.
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OK, I have about had it with my 700R4. How much of a pain is it going to be to switch my originally automatic 1974.5 260Z to a T56? Also, how long before I frag my rear CV joints? I have found a LSD. Will the whole thing to the wheels fit or do I have to piece meal?
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My 700R4 has about bit it with only 8000 miles on it. Who has the longest running 700R4? Who knows where I can get the best deal on a 700R4 for my 350hp sbc Z? All help would be appreciated.
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I have a 280 system in my 260z. I ran all new lines because someone had already removed the underdash AC. My car had factory AC. Anyway, the only problem that I had was with the servo on the 260Z being in the way of the larger 280z condenser box. I set up a mechanical servo and left it at that. Any competent AC guy can run different AC lines.
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1974.5 260Z
355 sbc
Edelbrock RPM heads
Edelbrock RPM intake
Holley 600 cfm carb (Edelbrock soon)
Comp Cams lifters and cam
Hooker 2100 block hugger headers
700R4 transmission
Carter 5 psi fuel pump w/o regulator
Powermaster 150 amp alternator
84 Camaro radiator (JTR recommended)
Black Magic FLX-150 fan
FACTORY AC with Chevy compressor
Arizona Z stiffer springs
Koni D shocks all around
Original renewed fuel tank
Fully Louvered steel hood(better venting)
Cool under this hood!
Dual 2-1/4 exhaust
79 Toyota 4x4 calipers with ZX rotors (front)
79 ZX calipers and rotors (rear)
14" ZX 6 spoke rims
Grant Mohogany steering wheel
MSA strut bar in rear
Polyurethane bushings all around
Top Speed with 3.54 rear end = 167 mph
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You got a problem if your Z topped out at 110. Even if it had a 4.11 rear end, which it doesn't, it should go a lot faster. Maybe a 350 turbo transmission, a 4.11 rear end, and 13 inch low profile tires with a dead 350 that redlines at 4500 rpm? If these aren't your specs, something is wrong. Have you ever thought that your speedo may not be accurate since you changed everything?
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OK, here is a website with the run down on GM crate motors. Not bad deals, comparable to hot rod mags.
$3062.00 for the 330hp deluxe complete with carb and all.
$3456.45 for a reasonably decked out ZZ4 small block engine.
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OK, I have a 700R4 in my 355sbc 350hp '74.5z. The shifting never has been right. If I adjust the kick down for decent shifting through the first three, then I can't get it to stay in 4th without downshifting. I even ended up getting embarassed by a 1994 corvette. I had him until I redlined in 3rd (you do the math, 3.54 rearend), then I couldn't go to fourth without downshifting. He eventually left me screaming down the road in third. How embarassing.
Anyway, my transmission guy suggest a governor off of a corvette. Would that help tighten up the first three so I can loosen the kickdown for fourth? Anyone know?
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I concur with Tim240. I had the same problem. The float was not sealing. I had a little dirt in there, but the main problem was too much fuel pressure from the Holley Blue. How much pressure are you running? I finally got rid of the dirt (rust) and put the Carter pump on. Now I idle about 800 and cruise smoothly down the street.
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My digital camera is down until I find the memory disk. I have to clean today to see if it is around so I can post more stuff on Ebay. However, my hood looks just like the hood contained in the Motorsport Auto catalog for $399.00. It has 82 louvers which have the same slant as the raised portion of the hood. I will post a pic when I get my camera going.
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Different answer - Instead of checking the carb, check the fuel pump. It is located next to the gas tank. What kind do you have? If you have a Holley with a blue label, it will put out way more pressure than your carb will accept. You need to adjust your regulator. See if that is the problem.
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I posted a rather popular topic when I started questioning the need for the vapor tank. Well, I took my tank off and relined it with POR-15. I also pitched my HOLLEY BLUE FUEL PUMP because it was too darn loud. Instead, I got a CARTER 5 psi pump. Many people commented on the merits of each. Having owned both, I think that I am now qualified to give my opinion. THE CARTER FUEL PUMP IS UNQUESTIONABLY BETTER FOR A STREET DRIVEN CAR. The Holley was at least 5 times as loud as the CARTER. Yes, the Carter only has 5psi, but Holley carbs run great at 3 psi. anything more than 5 or 6 and you have too much. That is all of the pressure that a normally aspirated car wants. Again, the HOLLEY WAS AT LEAST 5 TIMES AS LOUD AS THE CARTER!!! Also, with the 5 psi CARTER, I could clean up my engine compartment by removing the Holley regulator. What a deal. If anyone is interested in a slightly used Holley fuel pump, I have one to sell. I am sticking with CARTER. By the way, I don't have stock in either company and I like my Holley carb, I am just so much happier with my Carter pump than that super loud Holley.
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Yes, Carter has a street/strip pump that runs 7-8 psi part number P-4594 but who needs that pressure for their carb? My Holley likes low pressures and Holley doesn't recommend using anything over 6 psi. Even at 7 psi, my pump was causing my Holley to flood at idle. It was blowing gas past the float valve. Bigger isn't always better. I will let you know how much quiter the Carter is. I am mounting it today. I will also try to post picks of Edelbrock Performer RPM straight plug heads with the Hooker 2100 headers. Plenty of room with the JTR setup and I cleared the steering rod with plenty of room.
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OK, my fuel pump problem was from tank rust, but I already knew that. I had a POR-15 tank liner kit laying around. I have a Carter 5 psi pump on the way. I think that is enough to fuel my 350hp sbc. When I took the tank down to line it, I ran into the carbon canister on the back. I have a 1974-1/2. I don't think I need the carbon canister or any of the lines. Is there any reason that I can't just run a line directly from the tank to pump to engine? Do I need some sort of
breather and if so, what do I do? Tomorrow, I am finishing the lining of my tank, installing the new carter pump and maybe throwing all of that carbon or charcoal canister away. Please help!
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blkmgk - I have the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads. They are straight plug. They rock. No header interference whatsoever.
Road Demon vs. Street Avenger
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
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OK, I have a 390hp 355sbc with the Edelbrock Performer RPM set up. I had a Holley 600 but I didn't like the gas smell all the time. I switched to a Carter 625 which doesn't smell as bad but is old and doesn't have the WOT punch that the Holley had. Also, it doesn't fit under my hood as well as the Holley. I am thinking about either one of Barry Grant's 625 Road Demons or a 670 Street Avenger. Do the Road Demons have the power valves that blow out? The price is relatively the same. Does anyone know which works better and needs the least attention? Any suggestions?