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Posts posted by Lewis Maudlin
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The headers are Hooker block huggers part number 2100. I did see in a hot rod magazine many advertisements for block huggers much cheaper. I should have gotten coated ones since mine have already started to rust. I have to hit them with a little paint now and then. I have a trans cooler. I needed it since my dual exhausts necessarily went close to the tranny. I have done the Toyota 4x4 front disc conversion. Skip the proportioning valve unless you need it. I also put the 79 ZX discs on the rear of my car. The rear discs were a little bit of a pain to get on. Actually, a lot of a pain but they are worth it. The fronts were easy.
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A LITTLE NOISY?!? I have heard trains that were a little noisy. The Holley blue sounds like a hive of bees in my car. That is the main reason. Hopefully, the Carter is quiter. My car is a daily driver. I have a 355 sbc with a 700R4 automatic, Edelbrock heads, Hooker headers, a fully louvered hood, nice stereo and air conditioning going in next week. I have had it a couple of years and drive it daily. With a smooth setup, the noise was getting to be too much.
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I am working on my tank. I cleaned it and switched to a Carter pump from a Holley blue. While I have everything off, is there any reason not to remove the vapor tank and all associated plumbing? I have a 74.5 sbc. I will of course plug everything then vent my gas cap with a very small drill. What do you think? Saves weight, gets rid of unnecessary items and gets the vapor tank out of the car.
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Ok, still working. Does anyone know if I need to keep the vapor tank or can I trash it. My idea is to close off all of the outlets on the tank except the one going to my pump and to drill a small hole in my gas cap to be a breather hole since I don't have a vented gas cap. What do you think?
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OK, replace "carbon canister" with "vapor tank". Do I need the vapor tank for anything? Does anyone know?
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OK, replace "charcoal canister" or "carbon canister" with "vapor tank" in my previous ramblings.
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OK, my fuel pump problem was from tank rust, but I already knew that. I had a POR-15 tank liner kit laying around. I have a Carter 5 psi pump on the way. I think that is enough to fuel my 350hp sbc. When I took the tank down to line it, I ran into the carbon canister on the back. I have a 1974-1/2. I don't think I need the carbon canister or any of the lines. Is there any reason that I can't just run a line directly from the tank to pump to engine? Do I need some sort of breather and if so, what do I do? Tomorrow, I am finishing the lining of my tank, installing the new carter pump and maybe throwing all of that carbon or charcoal canister away. Please help!
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OK, I was out driving today and getting on it a little. My car was cutting out and dying a little. I got back to town and it kept dying. It acted like it was out of gas. I looked in the engine at the clear fuel filters just before my carb and noticed that no fuel was pumping. I waited about 5 minutes and the car started pumping fuel again. I have a Holley Blue pump that is very loud and it was very quiet and barely pumping. When I got it home, it quit pumping again. The trip home was about two blocks. After a while, it started pumping again. I checked to make sure that I had gas and disconnected everything at various locations to make sure I was getting gas. I was getting gas so I started it and it quit pumping gas within a minute. The pump was still whirring only quietly. No fuel was coming through. I noticed quite a bit of rust in the fuel filter so I even blew out the line. What do you think? Is my pump biting the dust? Which pump is quieter? Does anyone have a pump that does not sound like I have a beehive in the hatch?
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I was at the local boneyard the other day and saw several 87-89 300ZX's. Which ones have the LSD? How tough is the switch from my 1974-1/2 260Z? I don't know which diff I have, but it has been holding up pretty well under my 350hp engine. I still have the original equipment and don't want to start changing stub axles especially after I spent all last week putting the rear discs on.
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OK, my drum brakes need constant adjustment. My little Z is a 355 with Edelbrock RPM Heads, Intake, Comp Cams Cam, etc. Probably a little over 350 hp. I need discs. What is the most cost effective way to go? I saw a set-up using 79-81 discs that I could get cheap and complete. The calipers don't have a piston on both sides however. The 82-83 is a 4 piston, I think. What are the pros and cons? Is the 79-81 effective? If so, I can get it cheap. Suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Vapor tank - Do I need it? HELP!!!
in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
Posted
OH, I forgot to mention. I used the JTR book's cooling recommendation and it works well. I have the 84 Camaro (small) radiator Modine part number 952 and the Flex Lite Black Magic 150 cooling fan. As far as I can tell the 150 is about the biggest fan you can get.
Best thing I did to displace heat though was louvering the hood. I have 82 louvers in my hood like the one MSA sells. I picked up a hood at the local pick and pull, stripped the paint, and took it to a hot rod shop. The hood cost $20 and the louvers cost $82. Not bad for an MSA $399 hood.