Lewis Maudlin

OK, here is a website with the run down on GM crate motors. Not bad deals, comparable to hot rod mags. http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ $3062.00 for the 330hp deluxe complete with carb and all. $3456.45 for a reasonably decked out ZZ4 small block engine.

OK, I have a 700R4 in my 355sbc 350hp '74.5z. The shifting never has been right. If I adjust the kick down for decent shifting through the first three, then I can't get it to stay in 4th without downshifting. I even ended up getting embarassed by a 1994 corvette. I had him until I redlined in 3rd (you do the math, 3.54 rearend), then I couldn't go to fourth without downshifting. He eventually left me screaming down the road in third. How embarassing. Anyway, my transmission guy suggest a governor off of a corvette. Would that help tighten up the first three so I can loosen the kickdown for fourth? Anyone know?

I concur with Tim240. I had the same problem. The float was not sealing. I had a little dirt in there, but the main problem was too much fuel pressure from the Holley Blue. How much pressure are you running? I finally got rid of the dirt (rust) and put the Carter pump on. Now I idle about 800 and cruise smoothly down the street.

My digital camera is down until I find the memory disk. I have to clean today to see if it is around so I can post more stuff on Ebay. However, my hood looks just like the hood contained in the Motorsport Auto catalog for $399.00. It has 82 louvers which have the same slant as the raised portion of the hood. I will post a pic when I get my camera going.

Different answer - Instead of checking the carb, check the fuel pump. It is located next to the gas tank. What kind do you have? If you have a Holley with a blue label, it will put out way more pressure than your carb will accept. You need to adjust your regulator. See if that is the problem.

I posted a rather popular topic when I started questioning the need for the vapor tank. Well, I took my tank off and relined it with POR-15. I also pitched my HOLLEY BLUE FUEL PUMP because it was too darn loud. Instead, I got a CARTER 5 psi pump. Many people commented on the merits of each. Having owned both, I think that I am now qualified to give my opinion. THE CARTER FUEL PUMP IS UNQUESTIONABLY BETTER FOR A STREET DRIVEN CAR. The Holley was at least 5 times as loud as the CARTER. Yes, the Carter only has 5psi, but Holley carbs run great at 3 psi. anything more than 5 or 6 and you have too much. That is all of the pressure that a normally aspirated car wants. Again, the HOLLEY WAS AT LEAST 5 TIMES AS LOUD AS THE CARTER!!! Also, with the 5 psi CARTER, I could clean up my engine compartment by removing the Holley regulator. What a deal. If anyone is interested in a slightly used Holley fuel pump, I have one to sell. I am sticking with CARTER. By the way, I don't have stock in either company and I like my Holley carb, I am just so much happier with my Carter pump than that super loud Holley.

Yes, Carter has a street/strip pump that runs 7-8 psi part number P-4594 but who needs that pressure for their carb? My Holley likes low pressures and Holley doesn't recommend using anything over 6 psi. Even at 7 psi, my pump was causing my Holley to flood at idle. It was blowing gas past the float valve. Bigger isn't always better. I will let you know how much quiter the Carter is. I am mounting it today. I will also try to post picks of Edelbrock Performer RPM straight plug heads with the Hooker 2100 headers. Plenty of room with the JTR setup and I cleared the steering rod with plenty of room.

OK, my fuel pump problem was from tank rust, but I already knew that. I had a POR-15 tank liner kit laying around. I have a Carter 5 psi pump on the way. I think that is enough to fuel my 350hp sbc. When I took the tank down to line it, I ran into the carbon canister on the back. I have a 1974-1/2. I don't think I need the carbon canister or any of the lines. Is there any reason that I can't just run a line directly from the tank to pump to engine? Do I need some sort of breather and if so, what do I do? Tomorrow, I am finishing the lining of my tank, installing the new carter pump and maybe throwing all of that carbon or charcoal canister away. Please help!

blkmgk - I have the Edelbrock Performer RPM heads. They are straight plug. They rock. No header interference whatsoever.

OH, I forgot to mention. I used the JTR book's cooling recommendation and it works well. I have the 84 Camaro (small) radiator Modine part number 952 and the Flex Lite Black Magic 150 cooling fan. As far as I can tell the 150 is about the biggest fan you can get. Best thing I did to displace heat though was louvering the hood. I have 82 louvers in my hood like the one MSA sells. I picked up a hood at the local pick and pull, stripped the paint, and took it to a hot rod shop. The hood cost $20 and the louvers cost $82. Not bad for an MSA $399 hood.

The headers are Hooker block huggers part number 2100. I did see in a hot rod magazine many advertisements for block huggers much cheaper. I should have gotten coated ones since mine have already started to rust. I have to hit them with a little paint now and then. I have a trans cooler. I needed it since my dual exhausts necessarily went close to the tranny. I have done the Toyota 4x4 front disc conversion. Skip the proportioning valve unless you need it. I also put the 79 ZX discs on the rear of my car. The rear discs were a little bit of a pain to get on. Actually, a lot of a pain but they are worth it. The fronts were easy.

A LITTLE NOISY?!? I have heard trains that were a little noisy. The Holley blue sounds like a hive of bees in my car. That is the main reason. Hopefully, the Carter is quiter. My car is a daily driver. I have a 355 sbc with a 700R4 automatic, Edelbrock heads, Hooker headers, a fully louvered hood, nice stereo and air conditioning going in next week. I have had it a couple of years and drive it daily. With a smooth setup, the noise was getting to be too much.

I am working on my tank. I cleaned it and switched to a Carter pump from a Holley blue. While I have everything off, is there any reason not to remove the vapor tank and all associated plumbing? I have a 74.5 sbc. I will of course plug everything then vent my gas cap with a very small drill. What do you think? Saves weight, gets rid of unnecessary items and gets the vapor tank out of the car.

Ok, still working. Does anyone know if I need to keep the vapor tank or can I trash it. My idea is to close off all of the outlets on the tank except the one going to my pump and to drill a small hole in my gas cap to be a breather hole since I don't have a vented gas cap. What do you think?

OK, replace "carbon canister" with "vapor tank". Do I need the vapor tank for anything? Does anyone know?

OK, replace "charcoal canister" or "carbon canister" with "vapor tank" in my previous ramblings.

OK, my fuel pump problem was from tank rust, but I already knew that. I had a POR-15 tank liner kit laying around. I have a Carter 5 psi pump on the way. I think that is enough to fuel my 350hp sbc. When I took the tank down to line it, I ran into the carbon canister on the back. I have a 1974-1/2. I don't think I need the carbon canister or any of the lines. Is there any reason that I can't just run a line directly from the tank to pump to engine? Do I need some sort of breather and if so, what do I do? Tomorrow, I am finishing the lining of my tank, installing the new carter pump and maybe throwing all of that carbon or charcoal canister away. Please help!

OK, I was out driving today and getting on it a little. My car was cutting out and dying a little. I got back to town and it kept dying. It acted like it was out of gas. I looked in the engine at the clear fuel filters just before my carb and noticed that no fuel was pumping. I waited about 5 minutes and the car started pumping fuel again. I have a Holley Blue pump that is very loud and it was very quiet and barely pumping. When I got it home, it quit pumping again. The trip home was about two blocks. After a while, it started pumping again. I checked to make sure that I had gas and disconnected everything at various locations to make sure I was getting gas. I was getting gas so I started it and it quit pumping gas within a minute. The pump was still whirring only quietly. No fuel was coming through. I noticed quite a bit of rust in the fuel filter so I even blew out the line. What do you think? Is my pump biting the dust? Which pump is quieter? Does anyone have a pump that does not sound like I have a beehive in the hatch?

I was at the local boneyard the other day and saw several 87-89 300ZX's. Which ones have the LSD? How tough is the switch from my 1974-1/2 260Z? I don't know which diff I have, but it has been holding up pretty well under my 350hp engine. I still have the original equipment and don't want to start changing stub axles especially after I spent all last week putting the rear discs on.

OK, my drum brakes need constant adjustment. My little Z is a 355 with Edelbrock RPM Heads, Intake, Comp Cams Cam, etc. Probably a little over 350 hp. I need discs. What is the most cost effective way to go? I saw a set-up using 79-81 discs that I could get cheap and complete. The calipers don't have a piston on both sides however. The 82-83 is a 4 piston, I think. What are the pros and cons? Is the 79-81 effective? If so, I can get it cheap. Suggestions are greatly appreciated.