Lewis Maudlin

The car is a rolling chassis without an engine. I don't know about shipping to Houston. I have never shipped a car. If you find out, please let me know.

I have run out of patience and time to work. I don't have a garage. I figured that with my skill level, I would need to invest 1 day every other weekend for a year to get my car done. I may build another V-8 someday, but I don't have the time to do a GTO kit right now.

Check it out. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2407347600

After long thought, I put my Stable Autoworks kit on ebay. Check it out. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2407347600

I have a GTO dash for sale, what are you willing to pay?

The GTO kit is on a nearly rust free donor. The other sbc is rusted beyond belief.

The gto kit is in good shape. There is only one small rust spot on the donor car. Not a big deal. I just have no good ideas for finishing the car. Any suggestions on how to get the work done. Most body shops would charge $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ to touch the car.

I have a 1974.5 260Z that I built into a nice car. When I went to have it painted, I found a little more frame rust than I thought. It was running great, but I chose not to paint it. It has: 355 sbc Edelbrock Performer RPM aluminum heads RAPTOR 700R4 that I paid $1900 for built to hold 600 hp with a 2800 stall converter B&M transmission cooler Powermaster chrome $300 alternator Griffin $300 1.25 dual core aluminum radiator Air Conditioning set up and working Toyota 4x4 brakes up front ZX disc brakes in rear Koni D shocks Arizona Z springs Roller rockers Comp Cams extreme energy cam Fully LOUVERED hood (82 louvers in the metal of the hood) Autometer gauges Grant steering wheel Polyurethane bushings New gasket kit (not installed) Rear strut tower bar Carter carb Carter electric fuel pump Re-lined fuel tank New H4 headlights 14x7 slotted mag wheels So I got this car built then had frame rust problems. So I bought a 1977 280Z with a Stable Autoworks Ferrari GTO kit sitting on it. The car was set up for a sbc but the drivetrain was removed. I was planning on moving everything from the one car to the other, but I think I bit off a little more than I could chew. Between the body work to complete the GTO kit and moving everything over, I am looking at 100+ hours of work that I don't have time to do. I also have a spare 1972 240Z with a good engine, good SU carbs, and a 6 to header. I bought it for the wheels, but the engine is great. So what do you guys think? Should I bail? Is anyone interested in any of this stuff? Could I get out with my shirt? I have over $15000 invested and I know I can't get close to that, but do you think that I could sell some of this stuff? Anyone want to buy anything? Anyone want to do some body work at a reasonable price? Maybe I could just pay someone to finish the body work on the GTO kit... What do you guys think?

I am losing patience. I am thinking about selling my sbc Z, my stable kit sitting on a donor, and a junk parts car. The stable kit is sitting on a nice donor. It has been fitted to the car waiting final bonding. The donor is a 1977 280Z. The car did have a 400 sbc in it. It used the Jags that run mounting kit. I will entertain any offers on the kit and donor. I also have a 1974.5 260Z with a 355 sbc in it. The sbc has edelbrock heads a chrome powermaster alternator. A $300 griffin 1.25 inch radiator, etc. All the best stuff. It also has a polyurethane bushing kit, partially installed, and a new door/window/taillight gasket kit. The frame is kinda rusty, so i was going to move everything over from it to the stable car. Let me know if anyone is interested at lewismaudlin@yahoo.com. Thanks. Lewis.

I got an e-mail from him the other day too. I ordered a manual about a month ago.

Putting a 12 bolt rear end in your car defeats one of the purposes of using a Z. One of the best features of the Z is its independent rear suspension. When you break traction, you can still control the car. Also, 12 second quarters are realistic with a 350 hp Z car. The cars are so light that the issue really becomes traction. A T-56 will run a slower quarter than a 700R-4 because of traction issues. The automatic hooks up better. You might look into a LT-1 with a 700R-4 attached.

Yes, but all the wires are gone, including interior, relays, fuse block, tail lights, etc. Am I sunk? Won't one of those fuse blocks run everything? Or will I have to put in relays too? How big of a chore will this be?

I just got a ferrari kit that was in the process. All wiring has been removed from the car. My last V8 conversion did not involve a lot of wiring. I left everything in tact? Can anyone recommend a good wiring harness? After I get the harness and fuse block, will it be a big paid to re-wire everything? Is there any harness that is better than others? Any help is appreciated

Are there any Stable kit builders or any builder or any V8 Z'ers in Southern Indiana or Louisville, KY? Or anyone in southern Indiana or Louisville, KY for that matter?

I would stay away from the TH350 if you plan on driving the car anywhere other than the track or where there is a 30 mph speed limit. You will be turning out way too many rpms for comfortable highway driving if you don't get something with overdrive.

Aluminum heads are nice. They shave quite a bit of weight off of the front of the car and it can be felt in the steering. Also, if you go with that tranny, I would choose the one with the .62 overdrive and 2.77 first gear. My reasoning is that you won't be pulling anything bigger than a house with your z so you don't need the granny gear. Your Z will shoot off of the line with the 2.77 first gear just as quickly as it will with the granny gear. Also, the .62 overdrive will conserve gas and give you a much higher top end. At 65 miles per hour you will be turning out 1940 rpms with the .62 overdrive as opposed to 2379 rpms with the .76 overdrive. The nearly 20% increase in rpms at cruising speed can really be felt. If you are going to have a daily driver, I would seriously consider an automatic transmission. They tear up easy, but you can get one that will stand up to anything for under $2000. Whichever you choose, the more overdrive you have the better.

I remember some discussion on here about putting a Honda CRX blower on your engine, er, I mean A/C. As I recall, it took a little fabbing but horsepower, er, I mean cold air increase was supposed to be the best.

I made several comfort mods. I put in factory A/C with a Chevy compressor. Very nice addition though it wreaked temporary havoc on my cooling system until I got the bugs worked out. Also, I agree, the double sided aluminum padding to keep heat out and deaden noise. You can buy it by the roll. I put it in the engine compartment, on the inside of the firewall and under the carpet. While I have my car apart, I am also putting it or some other sound deadener on the inside of all of the metal panels. Oh, and you have to have a good stereo system, that's a given.

I have a pair of fiberglass fenders and buckets that I am not going to be using since I am now building a Stable GTO kit. I am in Indiana, how about you. Mine can probably be bought reasonably. Let me know. My e-mail is lewismaudlin@yahoo.com

What have I gotten myself into? How much work is building this 250 GTO really going to be? I bought someone elses kit. The fiberglass was screwed to the donor body. How much more work will there be? I have a stable kit. I am moving my everything else over from my 355sbc datsun.

I feel bad that you have to go to jail, BUT I own a few assault style weapons which are legal, I would like to keep it that way. I agree that the assault rifle laws are confusing. Everyone knows that a shotgun barrel must be 18". Either you or someone else modified the gun. Sounds like that is the one that got you in trouble. Because of people purposefully violating gun laws, those guys in the black jackets will be coming for all of our guns, and I like mine. I sympathize with you but it hurts my feelings that you would intentionally jeopardize all of our rights.

I have some springs that I like in my Chevy converted Z car. I kept it running while I was changing it over. This one, however, like you said is one of the light at the end of the tunnel problems. I also already have the rear disc brakes on my other Z. It was done right with just about everything I could need. The one extra that I will have to buy is new Koni-D shocks. Does anyone know a source? I suppose that I could go with the Tokica Illuminas. Anyone else with more suggestions?

OK, I am building a Stable Autoworks GTO with a 350 chevy conversion. This will be my second chevy powered datsun. I hope to get to work on it once the weather warms up.

OK, I have a completed 350 chevy that went to the paint shop to be completed when I found some frame/structure problems. I bought a GTO kit that was sitting/screwed on a donor that had been completely stripped of all wiring, dash, everything but the wheels. Does anyone have a good plan of attack? Where should I begin? I was thinking about doing the wiring first, then the body, then the paint, then dropping my drivetrain in. What about lights? Before or after paint? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Yes, I was talking about the GTO kit. I hope to have one that looks as nice as speedracer's. Any pointers would be helpful. Thanks. Lewis.