Lewis Maudlin

Simply put, Modine 952. That is the radiator for the 1984-1986 Camaro, V-4 and V-8 not V-6, I believe. It fits well and is aluminum with plastic ends. This will last longer than an all aluminum radiator which was designed for racing. I have one in my 400hp sbc Datsun and I run air. I run a 160 degree thermostat and temperatures stay around 180 degrees stopped with the air on in the summer. Not bad.

So what I am hearing is that a few would be interested in polished stainless strut bars for $200 and a few would be interested in $100 cheap, ugly, but highly functional strut bars. I am surprised that no one seems interested in one that connects to the firewall.

So you can do polished stainless to the firewall for $200? I was talking about a completed polished stainless strut bars for $200. $200 seems a little high for a non-stainless strut bar. I could pump those out much cheaper than that.

I have a buddy with a machine shop who is making me a set of polished stainless strut bars. The front bar will fit my 355 sbc and will connect the strut towers to the firewall for extra support. Would there be any interest in show quality bars like these for $100 to $200 each? The price will depend on whether the bar connects to the firewall or just goes between the strut towers. JTR recommends the bar that connects to the firewall to reduce front end flex. Let me know. Thanks.

Will that starter work with my Z? A large starter with offset bolts came off of it. Will the straight bolt patter work where I had offset bolts?

help, I need that part number

Do you have a part number???

OK, I took the starter off of my 10 to 1 compression Z. I need a good starter that will fit my 355 Z. I will probably order from a wholesale shop. Any suggestion, including the brand.

OK, I have a 390hp 355sbc with the Edelbrock Performer RPM set up. I had a Holley 600 but I didn't like the gas smell all the time. I switched to a Carter 625 which doesn't smell as bad but is old and doesn't have the WOT punch that the Holley had. Also, it doesn't fit under my hood as well as the Holley. I am thinking about either one of Barry Grant's 625 Road Demons or a 670 Street Avenger. Do the Road Demons have the power valves that blow out? The price is relatively the same. Does anyone know which works better and needs the least attention? Any suggestions? I don't get along well with carbs so which will require the least set up?

OK, I have a 390hp 355sbc with the Edelbrock Performer RPM set up. I had a Holley 600 but I didn't like the gas smell all the time. I switched to a Carter 625 which doesn't smell as bad but is old and doesn't have the WOT punch that the Holley had. Also, it doesn't fit under my hood as well as the Holley. I am thinking about either one of Barry Grant's 625 Road Demons or a 670 Street Avenger. Do the Road Demons have the power valves that blow out? The price is relatively the same. Does anyone know which works better and needs the least attention? Any suggestions?

Thanks. That was what I was wondering. Whether or not there was pressure other than gravity. My overheating problems should be solved because I put a new thermostat in my car. The other would open most of the time at high temps. Most of the time isn't quite often enough, huh. Thanks again.

I torched my engine the other day. My thermostat stuck and the stock gauge chose not to work that day. I now have autometer gauges. I am still worried that my car will get too hot this summer when I turn the AC on. I think that I need a puke tank to keep fluid levels up when the thermostat opens. Where do I put it? Any good suggestions. Does that coolant tank have to be higher than the radiator? If so, is there anyplace close to the radiator to put it? Thanks.

I run AC and it was easy. I just hooked a Chevy compressor into the Datsun AC system. You have to fab a lot of brackets and links but other than that, it's so easy to be cool when you are driving a Z.

Hey, I also posted this under wheels. Anyway, Z racing wheels are $199/set at Sears for 14" and $249/set for 15" any style. Does anyone know anything about these? Thanks.

Does anyone know anything about the Zracing wheels sold at Sears? They are $199 a set on sale now for 14" and $249 a set for 15" for any style. Seems like a great deal especially considering the "Z racing" centercaps. Help, the sale last through the end of the week.

I had a 700R4 in my 260 until I put the Edelbrock Performer RPM package on my engine. Now, I can rip out a stock 700R4 in about 20 miles. I have had to order the Raptor 700R4 for about $1700. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/highperf700r4.htm I am putting out around 400hp and loads of torque. The stock 700R4 just wouldn't hold. Also, if you get a 700R4 you may need a stall converter. Ask around. Most guys here feel it is a necessity.

OK, I have finally decided to fork out the dough for a new 700R4. My old one died because of too much hp. I am thinking of buying the Raptor for $1600. Seems high. Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

A little sarcasm, you must be new Cerebus... Anyway, my limited understanding was that the torque converter only locked up when out of the stall range. A 2300 rpm torque converter would lock up at 2300 rpm. Is that incorrect? With the electronic lockup will it lockup anytime you hit the switch? Also, a guy was wanting to build one with a valve to "bypass" the torque converter. The benefits are obviously that I would not have to have the wiring kit that has to be linked to the brake etc. What are the drawback? Will this cause the torque converter to never lock up? Will this generate excess heat? Will this cause decreased gas mileage? Thanks. Lewis

OK, still having problems with my 700R4. I am just about to say forget it, and buy a heavy duty custom built one. If anyone knows any good source for a reliable 700R4 capable of handling a 400hp sbc, let me know. THE QUESTION IS: I have found a 700R4 with a 2300 stall converter. At what speed will I be out of stall in fourth gear with stock ZX 14" aluminum 6 spokes and a 3.55 rear end? Anyone out there a math wiz? Thanks.

I would not go with an all aluminum radiator. They run fine for as long as they last, but they are not made for the street. They are made for the track where they are replaced at least once a year. If you plan on replacing yours frequently, I am sure an all aluminum will do fine. The Camaro radiator works great. The way to find one is to go to any radiator shop and ask for a Modine 952. Modine discontinued making them, but every other company out there says theirs is the same as a Modine 952. Just my 2 cents.

OK, I have about had it with my 700R4. How much of a pain is it going to be to switch my originally automatic 1974.5 260Z to a T56? Also, how long before I frag my rear CV joints? I have found a LSD. Will the whole thing to the wheels fit or do I have to piece meal?

My 700R4 has about bit it with only 8000 miles on it. Who has the longest running 700R4? Who knows where I can get the best deal on a 700R4 for my 350hp sbc Z? All help would be appreciated.

I have a 280 system in my 260z. I ran all new lines because someone had already removed the underdash AC. My car had factory AC. Anyway, the only problem that I had was with the servo on the 260Z being in the way of the larger 280z condenser box. I set up a mechanical servo and left it at that. Any competent AC guy can run different AC lines.

1974.5 260Z 355 sbc Edelbrock RPM heads Edelbrock RPM intake Holley 600 cfm carb (Edelbrock soon) Comp Cams lifters and cam Hooker 2100 block hugger headers 700R4 transmission Carter 5 psi fuel pump w/o regulator Powermaster 150 amp alternator 84 Camaro radiator (JTR recommended) Black Magic FLX-150 fan FACTORY AC with Chevy compressor Arizona Z stiffer springs Koni D shocks all around Original renewed fuel tank Fully Louvered steel hood(better venting) Cool under this hood! Dual 2-1/4 exhaust 79 Toyota 4x4 calipers with ZX rotors (front) 79 ZX calipers and rotors (rear) 14" ZX 6 spoke rims Grant Mohogany steering wheel MSA strut bar in rear Polyurethane bushings all around Top Speed with 3.54 rear end = 167 mph

You got a problem if your Z topped out at 110. Even if it had a 4.11 rear end, which it doesn't, it should go a lot faster. Maybe a 350 turbo transmission, a 4.11 rear end, and 13 inch low profile tires with a dead 350 that redlines at 4500 rpm? If these aren't your specs, something is wrong. Have you ever thought that your speedo may not be accurate since you changed everything?