Lewis Maudlin

My frame was rusted on my 580Z so I bought a stable autoworks Z kit with a donor car. Does anyone know anything about these kits? What are the advantages and disadvantages? Any comments or help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I HAD THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM!!! My distributor was getting feedback from a relay located just left of my left foot. There was a horn relay and another relay located there. I disconnect both of them and that solved the problem. Check it out.

OK, a lot of choices. Here is my problem. My body guy is known for being an excellent body work guy and an OK paint guy. My car needs body work and the super paint guys don't do body work so my body guy will do everything. Some of those fancy colors looked like $4000 paint jobs. I need one that my paint guy can do and still look good. I liked the Audi blue: http://mywebpages.comcast.net/pparaska/VariousPics25Aug2001.htm and I liked the candy apple red although the car was a bit scary: http://zparts.com/events/wcn2002/promo/image/DCP_3336.jpg I was thinking about the Charcoal but this car just looked a little too euro: http://www.djss.net/carpics/frontpassenger.jpg My paint guy can probably do lighter colors better than darker colors. The lighter colors hide more. Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks. Lewis

Increased visibility is not a problem. 0 pts on my license in two years of v-8 z'ing and numerous slain vettes. Any good suggestions, what can be done with silver? Thanks.

OK, I know that this may belong in paint, but I need a quick response in a high traffic area. I am getting ready to paint my 74.5 260 that has had the bumpers switched to early z bumpers. It goes in the paint shop next week. I still don't have a color. It is a 400 hp sbc daily driver with air. Any suggestions on color? Pictures are helpful. I was thinking bright yellow then silver now red, I don't know. No additional plastic on the car other than the front air dam to keep the front end of the car on the ground at speeds of less than 55 mph. Someone make some suggestions. Thanks

I have a set of side skirts that I am parting with. $95 plus shipping gets them. They are from MSA and have never been mounted. They go with the MSA Aero I kit

Hey, I was contacted by a Z'er from Louisville in regards to some SU carbs and an MSA 6 to 1 header. Could you contact me again. lewismaudlin@yahoo.com Also, are there any other V-8 Z pilots in the area?

Hey, I was contacted by a Z'er from Louisville in regards to some SU carbs and an MSA 6 to 1 header. Could you contact me again. lewismaudlin@yahoo.com Also, are there any other V-8 Z pilots in the area?

Is there any reason not to run the fan on high all of the time if I switch to the Taurus fan? I have a 140 amp alternator so power drain is not a problem.

Some rebuildable SU carbs on ebay. I also have a good set with intake that ran well 1 month ago for considerably more $$$. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1849123343

I forgot to mention that I am running the Flex-a-lite Black Magic fan FLX-150, I believe. It says it pulls 2800 cfm. Will changing the water pump help? My car was cooling better before. Well, before summer anyway. That fan should pull enough air through. Is the Taurus fan better? Help, it is hot here!

What kind do I need? I have a 355, RV cam, aluminum heads, hooker shorties, air conditioning, about 400 hp, a louvered hood to dissipate some of the trapped heat. I just got the Griffin 1.25" radiator b/c my car was overheating in the 100 degree heat that we have been having. I put the new radiator in. Tonight, it is only about 75 degrees and with the 160 degree thermostat, I still got the engine to 210 degrees sitting in my driveway with the air on. Clearly if it were 100 degrees outside, I would have blown up my car. Does a high volume water pump help? Does an electric water pump help? If I go electric, how much flow is good? Anyone have specific recommendations of a good water pump? I need to cool off and be able to run my air. HELP!!!

I decided not to go with a cowl. Instead, I got my steel hood louvered. I had 82 louvers punched in my hood just like the one that MSA sells. It dissipates heat pretty well.

COOL, excuse the pun... This is the type of information that I was looking for. I needed to be clearer and ask what cooling issues have people had with 1" two row aluminum radiators. Apparently, there can be problems and potential heat. I overheated once and that cost a whole lot more than the extra $150 that the 1.25" radiator will cost.

First, what I am doing different is Aluminum heads, close to 400 hp, headers, and air. I agree the camaro radiator works great for an iron block with cast exhaust manifolds without air. GREAT, Jim Powers. But that is not my set-up. Since I have air and additional power the Camaro rad does not work. Even JTR says that it will only work with 225 or 250 hp with air. I have about 400. The next question is how big to go. And whether a high flow water pump is necessary. The previous posts discuss many people saying that they wish they had gone to 1.25". Who out there has a car that 1" will not cool? Is it substantially similar to mine? Do I really need to fork out the $150 extra?

Oh yeah, and you guys who say that 1" works, is that with the air on in traffic or that it works without air while going down the freeway?

So is the consensus that 1" X 2 row aluminum will work? keep the stock water pump until issues arise? Some of the others on the last post said that they wish that they would have gone with a 1.25". How big are the tubes in the Camaro radiator? Thanks

Since the 700 is beefier, it is better. I had a 350hp engine and chewed up 700R4's like it was nothing. I ended up purchasing one from Raptor Transmissions for almost $2000. It holds up to my 400hp engine. Make sure that you get a 700 that will hold up. My buddy got one in his firebird with a warranty. Six months later he needed a new one. You get what you pay for.

Thanks for all of the great info. My car heats up. When I said it gets up to a little over 210, that is only because I find an open road or turn it off. If I did not, it would continue to climb. I already overheated it once. Thermostat didn't open and temperature gauge chose not to work that day. Bad combo. Anyway, what I need to know is whether I will be sorry if I fork out the $139.99 that it is going to cost me for a 1" 2 row aluminum griffin copy. Or should I shell out the $289.99 for the 1.25" now. Also, do I need a high performance water pump. Seems to me that if the water is flowing slower, it would cool just as well because it would spend more time in the radiator. Does that make any sense. Let me know. Thanks. Lewis

OK, I have a 355 sbc with aluminum heads and headers putting out about 375hp. I had the hood louvered to allow the heat to escape. Lately, on our 100 degree days with the air on, my car has been getting hot. Even tonight at 75 degrees without air, my car was at 185 with a 160 degree thermostat. During the day, it continues to climb. I do not have an aftermarket water pump and I am using the camaro radiator. Do I need one of those high flowing aftermarket water pumps? What about a 1" core radiator? Do I need the 1.25" core radiator since I am running air conditioning? I can buy a new 1" twin core radiator for $135 or a griffin 1.25" for $290. Do I really need the 50% extra capacity that the griffin will give me for more than double the price?

You can remove the ducting and if you do, I need it. I specifically need the piece behind the front face panel in the center where the ducts come out. There is a plastic square shaped piece with two outlets and hoses to the side vents. I need the plastic piece and ducting. Let me know lewismaudlin@yahoo.com Thanks.

I have Hooker 2100 block hugger or street rod headers. They work great and have plenty of room in the JTR position.

Your fan doesn't come on until 200? I have mine hotwired to be on when the car is running. That is important if you are running air.

Yes the Modine 952 was discontinued, but if you ask for one, other companies are making copies. The same radiator except not by Modine.

I have a 74.5 260Z with a sbc. The original air had been removed. I went to the scrap heap and got all of the air components for under $100. Then I went to my local air shop and said, "make it work". The magic words. For $500 they found a used chevy compressor, put my air in, and made it work. I now have cold A/C for under $600. It would have been a couple hundred cheaper if the original air components were still in my car.