Jump to content
HybridZ

JohnH

Members
  • Posts

    63
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by JohnH

  1. Thanks everyone, I figured I had it tensioned too tight. From what I could discern from the instructions Kameari calls for a regular inspection of the locking plate bolts every 3000 km. The TI Baby locking plate adjuster arm is just extra insurance the tension stays constant if the Kameari plate does come loose. I would not call the TI Baby useless as you would have to figure a market necesity for an independent manufacturer to design & sell this specific specialty product in Japan.
  2. I can't translate the instructions. How much tension should be applied to the tensioned side (left) of the chain assembly. I have around 1/8 play right now. Just wondering how loose or how tight the chain should be. I also have the TI Baby adjuster lock on it as well which I used to tension the chain before locking down the plate bolts.
  3. No TimZ I did not use the Nissan comp stepped washer. Regular dampner washer. Bryan not a very encouraging response back from BHJ. What I read from Chris's reply is that essentialy people who bought these when they first came out were test mules. A part essentially designed for a race application that cannot be taken on or off on a regular basis on engine that may go through a few builds a year is just poor design. I don't think weight was a factor over the dampner not coming apart at high RPM's when compared to stock dampners. So another $225 plus shipping & duty to get this fixed. NO THANK YOU BHJ. I will take my money & my word of mouth to another company that actually engineers a dampner that does not fail because you have taken the dampner off the engine to do some work.
  4. That last pic is exactly what my failed BHJ dampner looked like in the keyway.
  5. Thats the 3rd BHJ dampner that I know has failed (mine included) for the same very reason. I spent a couple of hours repairing the keyway on my crank beacuse of it. This dampner with a SFI rating should not be failing so quickly for this reason. I had barely 5k on it.
  6. I believe the wheels are Chevoits. I have a 15 x 8 set on my Z.
  7. This was my email to Porterfield. "I have a Datsun 240Z that has a front brake caliper conversion on it using the large SW12 four piston Toyota calipers found on the mid 80's Toyota trucks & the 84 - 85 300ZX vented rotors. I would like to equip them with Porterfield R4-S pads. Your catalog shows only 95 - present Toyota trucks. Do you know if Toyota used that caliper in recent truck models & what is the part # so I can order the R4-S pads for it. The pads used are the same size & pin spacing as the 84 - 85 Nissan 300ZX pads but without the bottom mid tab & bottom side recesses if that helps." This was my response back. "That is part number AP 137 R4-S $79.95"
  8. Can anyone here confirm the Porterfield pad part # as AP 137 for the SW12 caliper & 300ZX vented rotors conversion. Thanks.
  9. I posted some youtube vids of JDM cars on the other board a couple of weeks ago. Check under "bunch of Jap vids" in cartalk.
  10. I tried fixing it. I believe the pics are site protected for linking. Anyway the ones I bought are part # 99217.250 in the Weber DCOE section. http://www.piercemanifolds.com/airfilters.htm
  11. I got these in from Pierce Manifoulds as I have the Cannon long intake & ther is very little room for any filter boxes. The screens pictured are actually black rubber with silver screens http://www.piercemanifolds.com/airfilters.htm
  12. Congradulations Bryan. Good to see hard work & engineering to fruition. Love to see the potential of this engine. I'm thinking it will be on par with a heavy RB26DETT biuld.
  13. I have used the Duplicolor single stage enamel with good results. It takes a few weeks to completely cure as I did not use a hardener (isocan's). I would not use a lacquer as this type of paint never really cures & is susceptible to solvents (eg: gasoline). So using a lacquer in the engine compartment & around the fuel door filling area is a bad idea. Also you cannot paint over lacquer with anything else. It must be completely stripped off to put urethane or acrylic enamels on. Also the Duplicolor lacquers are a ready to spray mix. No reducing, no hardeners. For anything else follow the manufacturers directions for correct temp. range reducer, reducing mix ratios, adding hardeners & hardener to paint ratio. As in the case of the Duplicolor enamel I used it was a 4 paint to 1 reducer mixture as per manufacturers directions.
  14. Nice car. Needs more areo work on the front. Notice how the hood bulges up on the sides & in the front at speed. Check at 1:15 - 1:17 in clip.
×
×
  • Create New...