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Everything posted by JohnH

  1. Doesn't mean its incorrect either! Weber DCOE's have an accelerator pump that is activated when the throttle level is pushed from closed position. So unless you are running a large ratio of bleed back valve to pump jet size only a couple of pumps are required to adequately prime the engine for startup or in the higher ratio case a few extra pumps on the throttle.
  2. Another possibility might be the steep ramps on a high lift re-ground cam. Re-grinding a stock l-28 cam to a higher lift does change the ramped geometry as oppose to grinding a new cam on a full material blank billet. I have as spare a re-grind on a Nissan stock cam of a 530 lift Isky cam that has really steep ramp profile & less material at the lobe tips then my new Isky cam of the same spec. The cam was passed on to me as a spare a while ago & have not run it as of yet. Just something I noticed when comparing both cams so I'm just throwing it out there that it might be indicative of wear on a high lift re-grind. Others would have to chime in on their re-ground cam lifespans.
  3. Never needed chokes on my triple 45 Webers. A couple of pumps on the throttle pedal before cranking it cold & it fires up. In fact I removed the chokes & replaced them with block off plates.
  4. I'm in the same situation. I have an early 70 240Z (69 build date). I was thinking of going this route with the T3 moustache bar & the Subaru R180. What year longer drive shaft did you use to connect to the Z transmission? Could you have also flipped the T3 moustache bar around?
  5. I'm interested in this also. From my research I believe you can obtain roughly 3 liters using the stock L28 crank, CH 29mm pistons & 137.5 rods. My personal view is the stock L28 was de-tuned by Nissan. There is no reason an N/A performance engine should not be making 100hp per liter or there about. I believe part of the de-tuning is with the crank to rod ratio & the choked head & exhaust with the L series. LD28 cranks are getting rare & expensive almost to the price point of a brand new after market version that is superior, has pre-testing & some sort a warranty behind it. Would be interesting to hear other peoples thoughts on optimum crank & rod ratios for the L28.
  6. I was one of the few early customers that had their newly offered BHJ aluminum damper for the L28 fail in the sleeve mount area back about 10 years ago (there were a few others on this board as well). There is a Rockwell difference in the aluminum sleeve mount & the forged steel crankshaft. The damper came loose & the key on the crankshaft deformed the aluminum key way on the sleeve. This may have been caused by using the stock crankshaft damper mounting bolt & washer. I repaired the key way on the damper with JB weld & got the larger Nismo race damper bolt & washer. The washer in the race bolt set up is a stepped configuration. It appears to have been a successful fix. The key way's main function is for position of the damper vs the actual clamping force of the damper to the crankshaft. The crankshaft bolt & washer is where the clamping action is & should take place. BHJ did not have a disclaimer/warning/recommendation of using the stock bolt vs the larger racing bolt & washer at the time they first offered the damper. I believe BHJ has since moved to a steel sleeve mount damper. At any rate it is highly recommended to use the race bolt application for any aftermarket damper.
  7. I'm also interested in the Moroso oil pan. Does anyone know the width dimensions of the pan reservoir? Descriptions have it at 6.25'' deep with no width measurements. I'm concerned about exhaust routing interference as I have a 3/4" Nismo style SS header.
  8. I believe Adam Carolla has Newmans 300ZX.
  9. I have 2 oil pumps (one on the car & spare). They have been both swapped around a couple of times so I can't remember which came with the engine. Its an F54 block. One is labeled H 18 and the other H 6. Both have the same logo as on the H 28 & H 4 pictured in the first post. Does anyone know what oil pumps these are stock on? I'm looking to increase oil flow to the head on a hunch that I have not enough flow up there. Thanks.
  10. ACT strikes again. I was having the same problem with poor 1st & reverse engagement. I purchased the ACT road race clutch with 6 puck disc from MSA around 2008 - 2010. I have not put allot of miles on the car since installing the clutch (maybe 2.5k or less). At the end of 2015 driving season I started to get poor engagement of 1st & reverse. I thought it was my hydraulic system going. Replacing MC & slave helped a little but problem came back. Installing a longer slave pin helped for a bit then problem came back. I notice that the problem occurred once the car was warmed up & the clutch used for a little bit it would start to have the mentioned engagement problems. Came across this thread on HyrbidZ in my long quest for answers. Decided I needed to pull the transmission & inspect what was going on. Sure enough loose hollow rivets holding the spring diaphragm to the clutch body. Replaced the clutch & disc with a Centreforce II along with fork, collar & throw out bearing. When can the engineers stop screwing up?
  11. I used the front to back string method to square up the rear track. You can't just bolt these rear control arms on & then use camber plates & walk away. Camber plates give you the total toe measurement of both wheels which is then divided by 2. But what if one wheel is further out of camber then the opposite? The thrust angle is out? To start with mounting the rear control arms 1) outboard length even on both sides with as close to neutral toe as you can get 2) Thrust angle set by taking measurements from a set points on the frame to wheel hub or tire - there are washers that act as shims on spindle pins to align this 3) camber set (if available) 4) Toe set by front to back string method. The PITA problem is when doing the toe I found the adjusters binding so I had to basically set the strings, measure, lift rear of vehicle, adjust, drop vehicle, reset string, measure results - repeat as necessary. I have not taken it to a alignment shop because of the aftermarket suspension parts on it. I need to find a shop that I can work along side the tech to make these adjustments.
  12. I have the TTT rear control arms for several years. They are a decent product however as stated on the TTT website "They are adjustable on car." is a half truth. They are only adjustable on the car with the weight off the rear wheels. The inherent design flaw of a single control arm spindle pin running through both adjusters makes it bind when trying to adjust toe especially while the suspension is loaded. It does not compensate for the lengthening & shortening of distances between the adjusters on the spindle pin & thus binding occurs. Makes it a major PITA to adjust rear toe while the wheels are not planted on the ground.
  13. I do not doubt the quality of workmanship on these headers as I was looking into them about 8 months ago through MJP but unfortunately they could not fullfil the order due to being in the midst of moving their business. I am interested in the full race header however Sean must confirm that this header clears steering components on left hand drive vehicles I suspect others here in North America are intersted in the race header as well & are waiting on this confirmation before making a purchase.
  14. This looks very promissing. There is a definite void in a good quality race header in North America for L-series engines. Some questions: 1) Did you used to sell through MJP Eastern Auto? 2) Do all the headers clear left hand drive S30 & S130 chassis? 3) What wall size & type of stainless are you using? 4) It appears from the photos that the race header has equal length primaries vs the street. Is this correct & what length are the equal length primaries? 5) What is the collector to exhaust pipe size? I'm assuming that 2.5" is it based on header back exhaust you are also selling. Just nice to confirm. 6) Are the prices in U.S. dollars or GBP? Thanks for your time.
  15. My take on Datsun Z Fiberglass is its just another Show Cars-Body-Parts operation. Meaning - has a website with all kinds of products that uses ripped from the net photos to illustrate the product but actually has no moulds made for the products advertised. The lag time between ordering & beyond said fulfillment deadline would indicate that this individual is running around trying to find a part to make a mould from or is making it from scratch to no avail.
  16. Having purchased a FG hatch from you (excellent quality & well worth the price) & having it shipped to Toronto, Canada my only sort of gripe was not so much in the shipping cost to my door but the extra $150.00 the shipping co. charged for filing customs clearance papers which they faxed me to fill out & then I refaxed them back. The only other option was to take time off work, go to the other end of the city where the airport/customs clearence warehouse was, file the paper work myself & pick up the shipment at the same time which would have defeated the cost of purchasing "to my door" delivery. I also do remember talking to you on the phone about the twice the required size shipping box that you used to ship the hatch in as you had a one size fits all box since you were also shipping larger items out to customers then the hatch at the time. I'm not sure if this contributed to your found shipping costs by volume vs weight. Out of speculation this may have put off potential customers as this is what I'm reading from your statement.
  17. I have a heat shield underneath the carbs, MSA coated header + Thermotec wrap, carb insulators on the long Cannon intake, SS braided fuel lines running from a fuel block & I'm still getting heat soak in the engine bay. I have noticed that the temperature comes down with the hood cracked open, hence the reasoning for wanting more hood ventilation. I'm not to fond of the look of the louvers from hoodlouvers.com as they remind me of standard household heating grates + as you mentioned the tightly spaced louvers.
  18. How wide is the mounting base on the bilge louvers? I was looking at those on Ebay. However, they appear to be a little bit too narrow (5.25" wide) for what I need them for. The previous owner had put 79 280ZX vents on the hood of 240Z I have. Which aren't doing squat for heat venting as my triples are getting heat soaked in traffic. So I need to cover a hole of 7" - 8" wide. I'm also seriously considering putting on the 82 - 83 280ZX vents with the NACA ducts & hopefully with the placement of the old vent holes I can land the NACA intake just infront of the first Weber horn.
  19. JohnH

    Picture 026

    From the album: JohnH

  20. JohnH


  21. Forget the cowl induction & ram hood scoops. There are plenty of after market parts & hoods that can be easily had for that specific purpose. WHAT IS TRULY NEEDED is a stock factory hood (read - stock middle hood engine bulge) with plenty of engine bay heat venting. I would throw good money at something like this.
  22. Just a follow up. Its interesting that of the various FSM & Haynes I have for 70 - 83 that only the 79 FSM ever mentions it in an ambiguous way when draining the coolant. Anyways I used the drain plug to clear out most of the coolant in the block when I had the header & the triples off. I poured 4 liters of Evapo-Rust in the block & let it sit for a few days to clear out any internal rust.
  23. What is the threaded plug on the rear driver side of the L-series block just bottom right of the last welch plug on that side ?
  24. This is a real pet peave of mine. I'm still in the process of looking for decent door mirrors, I had the MSA racing style mirrors & they were just plain crap. They were loose, cheaply made & one retaining mechanism on a plastic base failed. I next bought the Vitaloni California mirrors from MSA (currently on the car). They are also crap. Poor visibilty & I cannot get the retaining screw tight enough on the arm for them to stay put so they end up sagging at speed. Contemplating JB welding them in place. I was also looking into the Pegasus GT mirrors & ebay open wheel racing style ones (similar to one posted in this thread) but that arm/mirror style appears to be flimsy based on a screw set & ball socket joint & sometimes 2 pivot sockets a mirror. Although those high quality motorcycle mirrors thedarkie posted look interesting I think what is needed is a solid body mirror enclosure where the mirror lense itself is the only part that moves. I remember really liking the door mirrors on the 280ZX I had. I have one spare right side that I'm going to test fit next. I also heard the first gen RX7 has decent door mirrors for an S30.
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