John Scott

Correct, new holleys don't have the PV blow out problems of old. Front bowl is primary. A blown PV causes a dead rich condition, but won't cause gas leakage. A good needle and seat will hold 10+ psi. My bet is needle and seat. Take the screw off the needle and seat adjustment, pull off adjusting nut(don't unscrew) note how far the needle assembly is protruding above top of float body by counting threads. This will give a reference for reinstallation. Then replace adjusting nut, screw counterclokwise until needle and seat assem is free. Check if there is any crud holding needle open or damage to needle due to setting float too low. It doesn't take much to create a problem. Before reinstalling, I usually put a rag over the float bowl and start the fuel pump momentarily to blow out any other debris. Worth a try. Also check to see if float is still in good shape and, if brass, not leaking. Have a good pre carb filter? John

John

Thanks, Dan. Its taking them, but I can't see images. Not sure if anyone else can either. Probably need to upgrade my old clunker sooner or later. John

Photo gallery states TIF, TIFF are accepted attachments, but always get a reject with GP library only accepts jpg ect. I can't convert to jpg. Suggestions? Thanks John

When I was dabbling with the supercharger, reducing comp ratio would allow more max hp by allowing more boost. A little less on the bottom, but much bigger gains on the top end. Regardless, that is a beautiful set up. Hope you're good friends with the tire store! John

Bronze gear would make me nervous. They don't come with a warning light as to when their shot and I wouldn't want to pull the distributor every so often to check up on the wear. When we built my engine we just called Isky and requested the cast gear. 244/575 108 (.613 w/ 1:6). I would think any major cam manufacturer would be willing to add this to any billet grind. Soild roller in your future? Not a race engine torn down every season? Save yourself the headache and call your cam company. John

My PG has been in for a few thousand miles now. Had forgotten I put it in! Can't give a good report on track racing out of the corners, strictly street for now with my Z, but when I'm not too busy trying to keep it straight I can always see two black tire tracks following me. After the initial few miles, no clunks or bangs in the corners. Mine was ordered from HybridZ member "SCCA". Already had the stiffest springs PG had availible. My install was to grind inner surface of blocks slightly. Didn't countersink spring holes similar amount since I would prefer more pressure on the unit. After talking with PG about thier vague instructions, it sounds like a little tighter or looser fit is irrelevant. I doubt the perfomance of the PG is as good as an expesive limited slip, but for the $$ its great to be rid of the one wheel smoke shows. Looks more like a funny car when it comes off of both tires. John

Thanks Dan, Ron for the other sources. John Washington was the first to reply, no rear Bre, but with an offer to build me a front airdam. Not his usual line, but his willingness and professional attitude is commendable. Les also replied stating he has another style of rear spoiler, more true to the original Bre (has original front air dam molds) that would probably work, insisted it would be way better quality, but I didn't like how high the spoiler comes up the hatch. Sooo, After 6 hours of cutting, grinding, relaying and filling, its starting to look good. I filled the key cutout detail , since access is no problem and it was off center by almost 3/8". The left side sagged so badly, that some of the TOP surface of the spoiler was gone after I cut for the fender contour. The top was lower than the body line!! Recontoured both ends to better match the body. The bottom was no longer attached in at least a dozen places, so needed to rebuild that as well. I should have sent it back to MSA, but the next one might have been as bad or worse and can't find any other sources for this style. Oh well, after this many years, I can't really expect anything to just jump in place on my projects. John

The 'GlassMaster has spoken. If BlueovalZ Aero Parts were making a spoilers, my hard earned $$ would be going to you. John

Ahhhh! I wanted to hear that I just got a bad one and the next will probably fit better. I'm paint and body ignorant.......So, Tim, have you been thinking about a Colorado snowboarding vaction? Sheesh, I'd hate to rice my Z just to get a spoiler that fits! John

Strut bars would be pretty easy to fabricate, but for instant gratification, little modification is needed to get the new MSA front to fit with a full size V8 aircleaner. New brackets front and rear incorperate all three strut mounting holes along with shiny chrome bars. Flipflopped the mounts around (lert/right)and redrilled with 7/16" bit as low to the bracket as possible. Cut off within 3/8" of hole and recontoured. Little hood interference was taken care of with a few strokes of a bastard file. Bars also come with rod ends on both ends. Should bars be tensioned out towards the struts towers or in? Maybe it doesn't matter. Body is noticably tighter. John

What a piece of crap! Are these things supposed to be this rough? The whole piece seems arched up. The ends hit the fenders unless the hatch is opened 1/2". At the worst spots along most of the middle almost a 1/4" of air gap on the front edge. If I were to grind it to fit the body line I'd lose some of the rounding of the leading edge of the spoiler, which would look like $#!+. Has anyone else ordered this item with better success? I was expecting a little touch up before painting, but not to reshape the entire mounting surface. Any other sources out there with a good fit? John

3.55 rear. 225 50 16 Falken Ziex & 225 50 16 555 Nitto. Falkens corner pretty well, but no traction in 1st, anything past 1/2 throttle in 2nd, and still are getting loose in 3rd in the mid upper rpms. On the plus side, the Ziex has a rain groove, which will lessen the hydroplaning on wet roads. The nittos, even when really heated still can be burned to shreds at anything past a 2500rpm stomp in 1st, wheel hop more in 2nd, and are hooking by third. I changed spring rates so I'll be switching back to the Nittos this spring for another try and see what happens. John 383 11:1, solid roller 244 .575/.613 108 lsa, AFR 195, Victor Jr, Holley HP750, 1 3/4 headers..6speed Tremec,..blahblablah

Thanks for all the replies. Got the rusty gears turning in my head. I fretted for about a month before I picked the BRE rear. Visions of waxing that new Vette on a top end run would surley dictate a big ol whale tail, but reality says I don't need to go that fast in a 32 year old Z, besides imo, the BRE looks better. Can't really decide on the front. MSA says the fiberglass isn't super clean and some prep will be in order. Any other sources for good quaility front air dams? John

Search function isn't working for me. Just ordered a "classic" BRE rear spoiler. Always liked the look. Now for the front. Looking at the minmal mounting points of the 72 air dams, flopping flexing seems inevitable. Don't want to go with a 74+ style. I like the look of the 50-1685 MSA. Anyone sucessfully reinforced this or other air dams? Really tried them at high speeds? I'm through with the 160+mph runs, but would like to know they'll still be attached if I did. John

Booster line is disconnected (testing only)so vacuum can't be an option. Primary jet extensions would surely starve the engine at launch, but may determine if it is primary side. I've tried w/wo on the secondary side. worth a try. Could g-forces of braking cause the fuel to stall in the jets at idle? Up the fuel pressure? Really like the HP carb otherwise, good cool air the other day the rear started to get away at the top of third, usually right on the ragged edge of traction :D Terry, if you remember, let me know. The only post I could find suggested checking the vent baffles. I know these carbs see plenty of track racing. Holley tech is of no help. John Scott

Been tuning in my new HP carb with one glaring fault. Every time I brake, it either stalls, or if really hard, dies. Eliminated booster leak. Tied bowl vents together with rubber line with hole on top, even routed lines outside the carb to eliminate fuel sloshing. Rear float level has something to do with it. I've set it so low its probably hanging in the oilpan, which helps, somewhat. I really have to rock the car to get any fuel out the site plugs. Fast braking in reverse shows no problems, only forward.I've never had this problem with any Holley or my recent Demon. On the good side, mid and top end are pulling so hard my eyeballs gagged me. Ideas, anyone? John Scott

Since Mike C can't find it in his heart to give me his old BG stage III, I've been researching the aftermarket Holley turners. AED comes up in the drag forums as a good bolt on and go with excellent results. Jim at AED claims the 750 HO mod will flow just under the 1040cfm BG III, CNCported polished body, high torque boosters, latest greatest improvements. Anyone else want to add their experiences .02? This piece-O-CRAP Demon. Rich at idle, lean at cruise, rich again at WOT, no amount of jetting or tuning is going to help. Mr. Demon, see that dumpster? Soon to be your new home John

Funny, my wifes ta tas rattle every time she....weren't you the...Uhh never mind. I had a carb stud go down, and yes it made its way into the heads. Oldsmobile iron heads. Needed a touch up on the seats. Put it back together only to find a piece made its way to the other side as well. I really didn't need to go through that twice. I vote for the magnetic gizmo. Surely you could "borrow" a fiber endoscope from the office. My wife's dept (speech path) was missing for about a week. Reappeared in pieces. I wondered if it smelled like 20/50? Good luck. I'd like to see that beast when it gets running. The FI will be sweet heading over trail ridge this summer, hint hint, or any one else willing to tackle 12,000+ft in a Hybrid. John

I've heard and seen the more prone to leaking of this expensive motor oil, but oil consumption? 15/ 50 was on sale at the local target and after hearing recommendations, decided my engine was worth having the "good stuff". 100 miles and a quart short. Topped it back up, looked underneath. A few more drips, but no real concern. 100 more same result. Vacuum guage test said guides were sound on my new AFRs. Don't have a leakdown tester. Drove it really hard and it gobbled another quart in well under 100 miles. Visited another couple of forums and found there might be a correlation to rings not seating with the Mobile 1. Dozen or so pulls on the engine stand with the original Vavoline, then 100s of miles actually driving on the mobile 1. Switched back to my builders recommendation of 20/50 Vavoline and magically, no consumption what-so-ever. I never saw blue smoke under power, the underside is pretty clean, where did the Mobil 1 go? Should I go back after a few more thousand miles? John

My dreams were to have a set up like Ross offers. I'd send you a few tousand tommorrow if I could. I stand corrected on the ability to modulate bigger better brakes. I'm not much of a race driver, so many of these refinements might not be able to be appreciated. Reality of minimal finances, and the desire to be driving and not sitting on jackstands for years at a time dictated my choices. For under $200 I have much better braking. Hawk warns of higher rotor wear, (noisier too) but my weekend and fair weather driving won't put many miles on the car. For under $200 the suspension is also greatly improved, again the highest spring rate I can find for the stock struts. Compromises yes, but I'm out there driving instead of wishing and dreaming. Anyone up for cat and mouse around some less than perfect on/off ramps?? They're out there, but have yet to see anything even close to catching me. What I don't have in cornering and braking I can more than make up for in acceleration. Its fun to open a dozen car lengths and triple digits a few seconds after you hit the straights. Not perfect, but I'm having a blast! John

So when does the hot pink spaghetti strap HybridZ tank top come out??

My dreams of 13" brakes and cool coilovers with Illumina 5ways has gone by the wayside. My car sees 99.9% street use and Z-funds are pretty slim. Good advice from our experienced members to the rescue! The hawk HPS pads with high quality brake fluid, new MSA rotors have made a substantial difference. Anything past wheels locking is wasted braking force, right? My old "upgraded" pads were toast after a few hard stops. Hawks/Ford HD fluid are good for many more. Also much quicker to bite. MSA springs gave my car a great stance, but I'm tired of banging on the 225 50 16s rear on the hard bumps. Always worse with a passenger. Up front the rates are too soft, especially with a big torque motor. 129/184 rate. Two thumbs up for ArizonaZcar HD springs. 180/200.Highest rate I could find with the stock struts. It sits about 3/4" higher than the MSA lowering springs, but for the first time I can cruise through the speed bumps and dips with no interference. Front end is much flatter in the corners. Less lift/dive on accel and braking. Seem a better match with the KYB struts. Well worth the $$. Driving on public streets with a race track only capable car seems a bit silly to me if your pride and joy only skips you onto the shoulder. Surface conditions around here are only getting worse, not better. Lessons learned are to stay within your scope of driving, road conditons and budget. John

I am running 1/2 & 1/2. I don't have a complete set of either. Had I been running a smaller cam to begin with, low mid 500s, maybe I would have seen an increase. I read on another board that the out of box afr 195s are maxed out around .600 or little less on the intakes, so thats where I'll stay. John