John Scott

I wouldn't consider myself a lazy mechanic, but after a head that liked a single pattern cam, Ported Dart 215 Pro1s w/.8 exhaust/intake ratio, had what I considered lacking of intake low rpm velocity for a street application, I changed to AFRs also a REALLY good head that prefers a dual pattern. At this point in my budget, the cost of another roller cam wasn't an option. Financial ability, not laziness. Check out the quality drag boards where time slips, not dynos are the rule and cams are picked by the heads, not a preference for one pattern or another. I'm willing to bet the AFR 195s with they're .7-.75 ratio will make more power with the dual pattern. AFR has quite a sound reputation and their techs are not going to mislead someone into a cam that will make less power. BTW amazing how many engine designs are coming out with 1.6 rockers on both intake and exhaust. Cams can be custom ground for your preference of either ratio. Some builders prefer the faster valve events of a 1.6. If incorperated into the design, there's nothing wrong with using a higher ratio rocker.John

I went with the 1.5 intake/ 1.6 rockers (steel CompCam Pro Magnums, formerly known as Hitech) on my exhaust by recommendation from AFR claiming they liked a dual pattern cam, which mine was not. A band aid yes, but I wasn't in the position of buying another solid roller. Push rod lengths were checked and found .200+ longer than stock were neccessary for correct geometry. If you are playing with diferent ratios you really need to confirm the correct length with an adjustable pushrod length checking tool. CC has them for a nominal price that give measured lengths per revolution of the adjusting end. Also note that 1.6 rockers might cause guide and seal interference. Sigh, I learned that the hard way a couple of engine projects ago. Don't just bolt on a set of 1.6s and expect to go racing. I've noticed in some dyno tests that the 1.6s might work better on the intake side, others on just the exhaust, sometimes only on specific cylinders, and sometimes not at all. A really well researched cam head combo. shouldn't need a rocker ratio change. John

If it has a kickout, header routing can be a pain in the butt. I ended up with their #2001 5 qt, scraper, trap door ect. I had the 8 qt, but chickened out when I trial fit it for exhaust. Just the same, Kevko makes a really nice piece for the $$John

A final point, with the 4.3, my weight bias was front/rear 49/51. This was with iron heads and waterpump. From my experience, I would say the V8 is less hassle to install. You mention streetable so I'd think any powertrain you choose, with proper suspension tuning, can be had with rocking handling.

Your heads would have been a welcome addition. I really needed to do the 4 bolt conversion as I was flexing the mains pretty badly once I got greedy with the boost. The 85 heads had manly proflows, 195/150s and what little I could do porting. Timing was limited to 22 degrees. A 4 bolt, forged crank, and big heads would have made one bad @$$ ride. I shyed away from the costs.. so, I blew my allowence on what started to be a budget cheep-o 383 hahahaha! What's left of my wallet is still smoking in the corner. John

My best guess and using G-tech 113 mph, 14 psi, 2720lb was around 375 flywheel. Stock 85 vortec heads were a major choking point. I live at near 5000 ft, so we get a big deduction for hp here, maybe around 18% less than sea level. I'd be glad to give you the mounts for cost of shipping. It will place the motor as close as JTR V8 to firewall, and maybe a touch lower. You might want to refine the system, though it worked for me for 5 years. If you'd like, Email me @ Zzealot240@aol.comJohn

Optimal will be the key word. Sure see a lot of 2 speeds at the drags....but shifting is such fun, I'd hate to only have one gear change. My 383 is torquey, though no where near some on the site. With a 15 lb flywheel, I can use 3rd gear as a very credible 1st with no clutch slipping. 6 speed is pretty redundant, but when cooking, I like to stir the pot. John

Haven't been on the forum for a while since I change to V8. I was running My PROCHARGED 4.3 with the aftermarket T56 which uses the T5 bellhousing, clutch,slave throwout ect. A very clean and easy to convert unit. Also has the mechan. speedo, unlike the newer stock T56s. Mounting waterpumps, accessories, transmissions... all the same as sb V8. The best placement for handling will require custom fabrication for motor mounts. (Still have mine) V8 mounts using JTR will put the engine way forward. JTR crossmember and the rest of the swap is pretty much the same. I loved the 4.3, but to get the big hp I wanted would have been extremely pricey.John

Another set of screw in studs 3/8 or 7/16 is cheap compared to rockers. Jegs has them for about $20-40. Also, when changing cams, rocker ratios, heads, its a good idea to use a pushrod length checker to verify the length you need.

When I sent my Scat 9000 6" 3.75, internal balance to the engine balancer, it came back with a small counterweight at the rear. Designed to run a regular internal balancer. (should have kept my original fluidamper, Mike, as I bought another!) but apperently even the "internal" Scats, and other brands often need touching up with a counterweight. Why change an externally balanced crank to internal, unless you're trying to fool someone looking under the hood that it's a 350? I chose the 9000 for the issues of recip weight, flywheels, balancers ect. I personally don't know the limitations of the 9000 series for sustained racing abuse, but from what the Scat rep said, it can handle a lot of hp, and make for a durable street motor. John

The Dart Pro1s evloved from, not just a renamed conquest, according to my engine builder, redesigned as well. Factory CNCs don't come in the smaller 215 & under sizes. According to the Dart rep I talked to, not enough room for CNCing the small ports. Darts are a great value as is, and big gains when professionally ported. You need to know your Dart heads or home porting can turn them into a set of expensive paperweights. Unless you want a drag motor, don't make the same mistake I did and kill the low end port velocity going for big flow numbers. IMO, the 215s ported, 300+cfm are a drag only head. I went down to 195 AFRs to pick up the low end again. I wasn't dissapointed! Enlightened by the drag gurus on Prestage.com. time slips to back up their statements, many out of box small heads make big hp when the rest of the components match. They recommended that if I keep the 215 Pro1s, to raise my already high 11:1s, bump the cam to mid 600 lift and mid 260s duration. Not what I wanted on the street. John

I smell a rat... Or maybe the motor is really a big block. Be careful with this guy and check the credibility of the dyno facility. A dyno operator can calibrate to read anything. I sold my Dart Pro1s on Ebay for as much as this engine is going for. Believe me a cam and good valve train can run this much alone. Reliable hp costs big bucks. Re-read Grumpy's cost estimate. Good luck. John

Better yet a side by side WHEEL dyno test with the same exhaust system from header out, mufflers tail pipes ect. Uncapped I'll bet on the full lenghth. Corked up in street trim, I'll bet its pretty close.John

Zfan, I wouldn't get excited. Most current hyd roller cams, if not all street rollers, will have the cast gear. I went through a scare with my Isky cam which comes in either configuration, since steel solid rollers will usually need the bronze dist gear. My engine builder was "pretty sure" he had the cast gear. They swedge, or back half as Isky calls it, a cast gear to the billet steel shaft. The iron dist. gear would be destroyed in no time with the steel gear. A bronze will still need to be changed, or at least checked frequently, since it is a sacrificial component. Not a big deal for a race engine, but not what I'd want in ol' reliable. Have one sitting in my box-o-parts just in case they were wrong. No wear on the gear after run in. Pulled it again after first 50 miles. I'm OK John

Aif filter is upstream...before the supercharger. I had mine mounted directly to the inlet on the compressor. Maybe pics are still in members rides. Even with the V6 I had to dimple the strut tower. Fastfrog might be on to something with the reverse rotation on a custom mount. I think a few manufacturers are now making in this config. Sure would point the aircleaner, intake side of the compresssor in the right direction for fesh air.John

Doug, did your mods eliminate the hopping? No rear bar. Nittos are 225 50 16s I found for $60 at Discount Tire. Small, but to good to pass up. My springs are MSA, which I realize are too soft. Might change to ArizZcar stiffer set. Just wondering if the Tokicos will eliminate the hopping on the street. Really hard not to spin at times, especially in first 2 gears. Spin happy or not the Nittos are way better for traction, so I'd like to run them on the road. My old Falkens would be like greased teflon with this much torque. At the drags I'd assume the Tokicos will be set @ lowest setting, as ScottieGNZ recommended for weight transfer, as tires will be fully heated for launch purposes. Oh yeah, what are your spring rates, 60' times sound great! John

Once the Nittos are warm any amount of wheel spin turns to hopping. Pretty annoying Illuminas were mentioned as a way to tune this out. Anyone else going through this? What setting works? Any other solutions except staying out of the throttle? John

I really like the Demon carb, smooth power, no dead spots, instant response, except for the idle mixture circuit. Driving me crazy. Researching other sites the Demon carb has few fans with more complaints than not, often in this area of tune. I'm pretty comfortable with Holley carbs. The idle screws on this are so vague in their adjustment I'll never know what is "correct" It even runs with all screws fully in. I requested a manual from BG. Finding the drag sites prefer the HP holley series. Whish I had the $$ for one now. John

Where did your info come from? Maybe I"ll figure out some reinforcment.John

I noticed the other day I was leaving one track from the left tire. Never really hammered it off the line. I remembered something about a few burnouts for the Phantom grip to take a set. Did 4 really hard off the line starts and now its leaving two consistantly. Anyone else have intermittent locking initially? Why don't they tell you this with the instructions? John

Procharger ATI has a much tidier solution for carbs. Really don't need the whole thing boxed.Simple carb hat with minimal modifications. John

Sorry I didn't make clear, Hooker Aero chamber is the muffler. www.holley.com/HiOctn/ProdLine/Products/ES/ESM/Aero.html My fuel pump is a Mallory 140.John

My car is really loud, much more than I anticipated. The solid mount isn't as harsh as I thought, but some gear noise comes in from the rear. As I said its not noticible until I put my earplugs in! My fuel pump makes much more noise than the solid mount. Triple digits it becomes more pronounced, but little time there, so far. There are more refined solutions, but solid mount isn't going to have the flexing issues under accel/deccel, or ever wear out. Super smooth at highway, under power, slowing. 200 miles to date. I'd put one in my next Z as well.John

If you really want security put in the solid mount from MSA. Offensive to some who have whisper quiet rides. Put one on mine this round. I honestly can't hear it unless my earplugs are in on long drives, Hooker aero is REALLY loud, and even then its just a nice humming reminder of whats happening behind you. BTW Polyurethane trans mount, 3/8 shim under crossmember, with the solid rear has 0 vibrations common with the V8 swaps. John

I was on the Ground control site where they mentioned having to section for 240z Illuminas. Maybe I didn't read it right. I see MSA has a part # for 70-74. John