John Scott

Not satisfied with my 93-96 starter. Marginal cranking. Sucked up and got the Mini. Using the same wiring, no comparison, the mini does a better job, period. The gear reduction used less power, but I still like the fender solinoid. No question if the power is going to both starter and solinoid, and eliminates one wire where I can't get to it easily. John

My starter has only a few hundred miles, bought it when I switched to my 6 speed. The JTR book probably assumes a stock 350 will be going in to most conversions. My #7 starter doesn't turn 11:1 383 compression very well. Slow and steady, but not like I'd expect. The mini, like I said was much, much stronger. Maybe there was a problem with mine from the start, as it was new/reconditioned, not new from Chevy. Just never showed up with the low compresion 4.3. Hope you have better success. John

Not sure why my driver's side rubs the steering and BLKMGK's don't, variences in the build, I suppose. I'd recommend having the driver's side built with a tighter radius, with the collector about 1/2" more toward the block, again with out collector flange and a radius pipe to place the flange where you want it. Otherwise, like BLKMGK's they will have the collector aiming toward the oil pan. Having mine welded up today. John

Full length wasn't going to work in my case and after reading up, very little power difference with block huggers IF you run through full exhaust and mufflers. Rewarder Headers makes a REALLY nice header. I'd advise to have them shipped with collectors loose and two radius pipes to configure your own collector placement. One tube hit the steering slightly so I shortened the collector lenghth .25" Still might need a small dimple. Passenger side clears everything, but need to relocate wiring up. Fantastic plug clearance with straight plugs AFR 195s (they make an angle model, too) Thick flanges made to your exhaust gasget. I'm going to tack them the way I like then ship them back for coating. Been pulling them in and out with the engine in place. John

Mine looks just like the picture #7 in the JTR book p. 3-4 seventh ed. Delco 10465293. Seems to have lots of torque. Notice big difference with short cables. Going to run the biggest I can find, Fender solinoid, to starter. John

Just bought my new engine a little treat of 100+ octane Sonoco. For those of you close to Loveland Colorado, corner of Taft and Eisenhower (Hiway 34). All the goodies up to 112 Sunoco leaded Supreme. Man, coulda gone with 15:1s! John

Cool! I was wondering about the gear reduction with the sub 3" diameter. Most g.r have an offset pinion. I used this on my 4.3, 7.5:1 was pretty easy to spin! Wasn't sure how it would handle the compression & exta 2 cylinders. It was reconditioned when I bought it, maybe I'll try the engine stand test. Come on push rods (arrive tomorrow) and headers ship today!! John

Anyone try this starter with a high comp motor? Trying to figure if it has enough juevos to turn 11:1 over on a regular basis. Pulled 125 amps on the machine, but know way of knowing how it will work until start up day. The sob was expensive. Looking at the gear reduction mini as a alternate. Perf shop employee has it on his 13:1 bigblock...$157.00. John

Thanks Mike. Sheesh, as low as that base is, how would the linkage, throttle cable work on the Holley, or Demon in my case, work? Seems like it would have to tunnel under the base. I like the drop and really don't want to alter the stock hood. Anyone have a measurement from top of carb flange to hood? John

383. Made the spring and 7/16 stud upgrade. I got so many responses from the drag sites as to what builds work. 383 377 406 with 195 heads and under, 260 cfm, big cams make LOTS of usable hp. Don't discount the smaller cfm ratings. Many timeslips, weights, and dyno runs confirm the info. My builder is a drag fanatic. He and myself got carried away with the build. I hope I made the right choice. Single pattern cam is an issue, but can't afford another at this point, so 1.6s were recommended by AFR since they like dual pattern. John

I can hear it burnin rubber already. Been working with the slowest engine builder in the world. Came to the conclusion Pro1 215 heads were too big for my street motor. To make them really run right I'd need a cam in the mid 260s duration. Ebay came through and sold the Darts within 50 cents of my new heads. Chased the UPS man for miles after just missing him on delivery day. I must have looked pretty excited as he wouldn't get out of his truck until I waived the shipping slip. Just bolted on the prettiest set of AFR 195s. March LWP alternator bracket works perfectly with Victor Jr. Measured for pushrods last night, .200 over should work fine. 1.5/1.6 pro mag rockers will give the cam .585/.614, 244 duration, 108 lsa. Peak hp under 6000, just where I want it. Issues with a circle track pan. The exhaust would fit, rewarder headers will make them any way you want.. but chickened out cause I don't want to run the pipe under the tension rod, too many bends and too low. Looks so nice just sitting there its almost a shame to hide it in an engine bay. I need one good weekend....Garage is such a mess..Now where did I put my Z John

AHHHH!Search is not working. Can't remember what combo works with the Victor Jr. Lowest I can find is K&N model which is 1.25" below carb flange. Not sure weather to get the 4" or 3" element. What fits?? I'm down to the air cleaner and wires. John

Thanks Don!! John

V8zed, I'm working with them now. Are you running the 1 3/4 or 1 5/8? How was the fit? Any mods? Trying to work around a kick out pan. Any pictures?John

Anyone have a spare 5 minutes to check this????

Help! Header jig is set for 1 3/4s for just a few more days. My road race pan is causing a bit of a headache. I need anyone JTR SBC to give me the measurement from the passenger side of oil pan to the frame rail. 72 240, if it makes a diff. Been through some changes with my engine, don't want to #@$! this up. THANKS! John

Man good thing I don't have driveshaft envy. 16 7/8" u-joint center to center. Sounds like I get the shorty award. With the 4.3, aftermarket Tremec T56. Intend to use it on the 383. Besides its not the length of your driveshaft...I agree with Lones method 3/4". Most movement is out of transmission. John

LOL I too felt the need to grow, much to her dismay. She does get the one side to park, but still a big mess. Winter! I don't want to hear the word. Really should get the CO group together for a gathering.John

what ever it takes, get the @#$% car done! HeeHee The garage is such a chaotic mess she wants the Z up and running. Progress, hour here and there. Nittos on, Phantom grip in, gas tank replumbed 1/2", solid fuel lines up and back. Pressure adjusted. Some minor front end upgrades, tension rods bushings, steering coupling. Radiator ready. Get to personally bolt it up to the dyno Monday. Should be on the machine for most of the week. John Scott

I'd like to hear the updates of those using them, too. Also, I've got a nice rear sway sitting in the corner of the garage. Is the consensus still to leave it off? John

Hey Rick, didn't forget, been on the procrastination wagon. Said he was going to start running it this week. I don't have any time till next Monday, but promised to save some runs for me then. If I'm lucky I'll swing in on Thursday to hear it screamin'! Tonight would be fun. A bigblock w/871 BRAAAAAP! John

Sheeesh! Thanks for the replies. From what I can gather maybe I'll go with the good pads (carbotech??Where?) and fluid, for now, and save my pennies for a vented upgrade. I've got a feeling that this engine is going to really crank, I need to be driving to keep inspired, but want some stopping power. I was the one who said common sense is the best safty device.... John

after wiping 30 years of transmission tunnel gook out of my eyes, the sob flows like a fire hose. 8 psi at the regulator, fills a gas can at the rear return before you can run around the car once. Glad I only have to do this once. John

Since my engine has snowballed into the depths of my wallet, I need to budget brakes, for now. No question I'm going to drive this thing once the engine is in, but after one eyebrow raising attempt to stop from mid high triple digits with the Procharge V6, I know the stock system sux. . So...I'm probaly going to do the 4x4 upgrade. I'm not going to be racing, just need to stop from a high speed now and then. Later I'll go with a set up more fitting to the power of the engine. MSA kit for $499 w/new calipers, pads, lines.. SCCA,Ross, I'm looking for a quick fix, bolt on to get me on the road, probably need new rotors. 72 240 Suggestions? John

BLKMGK, its not the efi pump. With the set screw all the way in, as Mallory recommended for my supercharger, gave me 20+ psi. Probably not enough flow for a healthy supercharged engine at those pressures, but worked great for my V6. At carbureted pressures, 7psi, flows a ton. 600 hp engines, according to one article I read. Flows great @ 7psi. Wiper washer is louder than the pump. John