John Scott

Ignorant question coming: Whats the diff. between a flaring tool and double flaring? Found a pefrect 1/2 elbo w/ nut for flared fitting with 1/2 line.John

The OD of the plug threads were 1/2". My limited fittings had a 5/16 ID fittng that worked. I'm sure 3/8 could feed a healthy engine, just want to be sure with a 1/2". John

I attempted the drain plug method today. The plug hole is pretty small. By the time a suitable fitting is found I'd guess the line diameter would be 5/16 or 3/8 at best. I think the drain plug can be drilled larger, but the thought of creating a spark and subsequent explosion had me worried. So I pulled the !#$@ tank out. Not real difficult but still a pain in the butt. Now I can decide between the Dmanzo and plug method and use a healthy -8 from the start. John

One of those "so obvious I missed it" things. Sounds simple enough. Drain is at the lowest portion of the tank. BTW return line, at least in a mallory regulator must equal or be greater than the pressure line. The line on the upper left side of the fuel tank is 1/2" and works great as a return. If I use this solution I may build a shield to go around the line. Might be a little exposed under there, but maybe no more than a weld in sump. John

Thanks for the detailed advice Scottie. Standard trans, no line lock. Not planning on a dedicated drag racer, but a few visits a year would be fun. Choices are pretty slim for the 16" rim. 205, 225, 245. 205s way too short and skinny, 245s probably would have hit the fender lip with my wheels. Like I said not the best size, but for the price will hopefully help some. I wonder what the different tire designs, Falken front 225 50s, Nitto rear will be like. Do drag radials still have a good cornering ability? I figured the main difference is in the compound. With the 500-1000 mi/year I was just going to leave them mounted. Doesn't rain here anymore, and don't drive the Z in the snow. John John

Best shift point rpm will be where the least change in torque between shifts occurs. This will be gear specific. Great shift point calculator on Prestage.com.

Nothing like getting what you want, when you want it....like that ever happens. My project is full of compromise. OK I fianally have a spare 500. Where's it going? Couple of hours this week. Wish I had the patience of Pete Paraska. In fact forget the patience, just wish I had his end product with my engine though. As it turns out I feel the clock ticking and the urgency to get something on the street...just as soon as it can move under its own power. Hang in there Owen. Your passion will have you back better than ever. John

Looking in the July issue of road and track, Nitto drag radial 225 50 16 for $65??? Not the most optimum size.. but for 65 dollars! Called the 800 and was told they are a discontinued model, sold out real quick. SOBs. Just for grins called our local Discount and they located a pair out of state. Said he would honor the advertised price. I grabbed them. Here by Friday. I'm not going to set any record 60' times but they got to be better than what I got. Recomendations by anyone familiar with Nitto on pressures, launch tips? John

I've read all the solutions from fuel cells to weld in sumps. Dmanzo57 seemed to have a simple solution. http://photos.yahoo.com/dmanzo57. Look in folder named 240z. Basically, a 1/2 aluminum line used for new pick up, drilled in next to the sending unit. AN bulk head connector, nut, gasket etc, from Summit would work. Sending unit is removable with bayonet type retaining ring, but looks like nimble fingers are a must. This is the way I'll probably go. Why not be sure and run -8 line? I used the 1/2 vapor(?) on the top drivers side of the tank for the return. Worked for years with my Mallory 140 w/return style regulator. John

Ah Grumpy, I wish we could keep the political jokes out of the forum. Comments on religion, politics, no matter how innocent the intentions, usually just raise hackles...anyway, streetable is in the eyes of the beholder. I'd look at the purpose of the car. If its your sole means of transportation, better tame it down. Plenty of 250 and up duration cams running around here. I'll be one of them. Looking for high milage, good commuter, stuck in gridlock? Not my Zs intentions. Running around on weekends, blast up the canyon, down to the drags, some compromises, but definitely streetable. John

Just a thought, but sounds similar to one of my elusive carb problems. Too much fuel? 1,2 gears are pulling quicker and can keep up with gas flow, less demand in third and goes too rich. I went through my whole ignition, changed metering blocks, carbs, until I finally found I was getting way too much fuel causing a rev limiter-like bog. Do you have a regulator? Floats too high? Try going to other way. John

Jim, tell me again that there is no interference on the drivers side. I'm still ordering the Rewarder. Probably best to see for myself and go from there. As long as it clears the steering... I'm about to leave on a week+ vaction so it will be a while before I post my results. John

The block huggers come in a variety of combinations for tube size, heads, and collectors. Price quoted to me for coated 1 3/4 block hugger was "about" $340. Not bad, considering there isn't, according to my research, another 1 3/4 block hugger that will fit. Jim is the man to talk to. Don't need to get him inspired or interested, and doesn't run hot and cold, like Loren at SS. "Just tell me what you need" Send him your exhaust gasgets and he'll find best flange match. Willing to angle collectors in, out or add a turnout. Great for those of us with road race pans with kick outs and limited ground clearance. Mike Kelly is going to test fit BLKMGK's set. BLKMGK has stated they cleared the drivers side steering but might have an problem on the passenger side(due to collector angle??) which I think can be rectified simply. A full length would be optimal, but for ease of installation, and ground/ oil pan/ starter clearance I'm 99% sure the 1 3/4 w/ 2 1/2 collectors is the header I'll order. John

The 4 cam 4.6 Ford. Be it in a Cobra, Panoz, or strapped to a Radio flyer, sweet music! John

Oh yeah, your both in VA. Close enough for a pick up? If not, let me know what I can do to help. John

Cool, that would be great, BLKMGK & Mike! Mike, you're running the Canton road race pan, right? I think have a similar kick out with my Kevko. The more I think the block hugger is going to solve a lot of problems on that side. I'm planning on sending a detail of my exhaust ports to Rewarder for the best match. I'll find out what other "options" are availible. These are going to cost about 2X the hookers, uncoated, but I'll gladly suck up and pay in order to get past the header issue. Also, since Mike is doing the trial fit, BLKMGK is supplying the header, I'll spring for the shipping Let me know the costs. John

BLKMGK Jim, thanks for the reply. I pretty sure I'm going with the Rewarder. Man they're pretty proud of those things, but who else has a 1 3/4 that fits, AND w/ 2 1/2 or 3 collector options?? I see they also have headers for angle plugs etc. I got an e-mail from them today to start the process. The straight outlets is a good tip, I'll emphasize that. If you think of any other mods that should be done for a better fit let me know. Dude you have too many irons in the fire...and a Supra to play with. Have fun! John

BLKMGK, if these fit, please share! I really want to have the header I'm using on one of the dyno pulls. Did you have rewarder do any modifications to fit? Any improvements they could do? Sounds like they were willing enough to work with you. John

A custom set would be sweet. I'm not in a really big hurry as far as having my car road ready, but I did want to have a set to run on the dyno to confirm or quell any myths about short vs long. I also want to have my guessing games over by the time I install. I know what custom header builders ask around here and it gets real expensive. Keep us posted. John

I give up on the full length SS units. Now I find the 1 3/4 block huggers are going to be a tough go as well. BLKMGK has already tried the Sandersons with steering clearance problems, Rewarders had similar problems, both sides ??!! Though I read about Holley products promo engine builds using a 1 3/4 block hugger, they claim they don't exist, and no they won't make them as a special order. "..hey we got four calls this morning requesting them" Flowtech tech sends me an e-mail saying they don't make a 1 3/4 block hugger.This suks! John

Here's my final note, I talked to Rick Johnson again tonight and confirmed his 3" clearance to the starter. He can't remember what brand, but I guess if someone is willing to pursue this, there must be a mini starter with an offset drive gear with one hell of a ground clearance that would make these headers work. Then all you have to do is convince Loren at SS to make to changes or a custom build around this. Rick said if he ever comes up with a brand name he'll post. JS

I read an article on 383 engine using a 1 3/4 Hooker supercomp block hugger. I can't find a part # but have the question in at hooker tech. If their 1 3/4 block hugger has the 2 1/2 collector and are the same configuration as the 2100 1 5/8, they might fit. John

Either have the collectors angled down or as you did, modify the floor. If you have the clearance, they're a great header. I just don't like how low the passenger side hangs. I have low pro tires and springs, the tubes under the starter, which are lower than the collector, would be about an 1 1/2" off the ground. JS

Next question. Are you going dual 3"? I'm wondering if what I was told at S&S applies, use a collector that matches your pipe for better flow. I'm sticking with the 2 1/2s. John

So block huggers are back on the table. Probably way fewer headaches with my kicked out sump anyway. Have you confirmed the fit of the 1 3/4 blockhugger? I remember the hassle BLKMGK was having with brandX. Do you have a model #? JS