Tim240z

Mark, Yes I plan to purchase 2 new inboard CV units from the dealer (unless I can find aftermarket stuff). Speedway had a Porsche CV unit there which is similar, but different enough that it would mean more customization than I already have to do. I really think that the Q45 stuff will be more than adequate, but if I start breaking things I will revisit the issue at that point. I just don't have the funds to start chasing what will likely be unnecessary strengthening of the driveline. It looks like the weak point is going to be the ball cradle (or I think some call it the fence??)in the Q45 CV.That is the only part that seeemed a little flimsier than the Porsche unit. The Q45 CVs (inner, which will be inner and outer on the Z)has a lot of travel, which I think will spread the wear pattern a lot, so they should hold up very well. I am more worried about the mustache bar and diff mounting (front) holding up to the increased twisting forces, but I think that if the front mount is plenty beefy, the mustache bar will survive. I fabbed mine from pretty thick gauge material, with an intergral crossmember, so should be good. Sorry to be sooo long winded Tim

I don't think that the sway bars will have any effect on ride stiffness, at least not going straight. The springs coil rate is the key. The shocks will not really add stiffness either, it's main purpose is to slow down the collapse and expansion of the springs.....? Tim

Owen, No he didn't really have much info in CVs in general 'cause he doesn't really deal with them. The mainstay of his business is solid shafts for the stock car racing scene. The only reason he knew about the Porsche is because he did a few special jobs for a porsche racing team I think. I had a look at the Porsche CV joint (loose) and the setup looks almost identical to the Infinity unit. He recons that Nissan/Infinity may get their stock from Wolfsburg in Germany, same place that supplies Porsche I am feeling very confident about the strength of this setup. Owen, how much did you pay for your 280 hubs? I found a set at a jy (whole unit, springs and all) for $75 / side. Seems a little steep?! Tim

I went to SpeedWay Engineeringin Sylmar, CA yesterday and spoke to the engineer there about the R230 sideshafts. It turns out that the splines are the same as the Porsche 930 (and probably other models too) and the ford 9" axle ones as used for racing. Sorry if this is old news. Well he quoted me $120 per axle, brand new, made out of the same material as the Nascar stuff (Rockwell 15 hardness). This does sound a little pricey considering that I've heard of guys getting their old sideshafts cut and resplined at Moser for under $100 (for both??), but this guy had concerns about the temper of the steel after being heated and presumably rehardened. To make a long story a bit shorter, I am going to have a couple made up, and he will keep the measurements, so if anyone else wants to go this route, it'll be a phone call away. The center CV joints and housing are $76 from the Infinity dealer, so I think that after buying 4 sideshafts at the JY (to make 2), and sending in the shafts for machining, I think that the price will end up a wash, but you will end up with ALL new stuff the Speedway route.... My R230 is now happily cradled under my 240 now What thinks everone... Oh, also, are the 280 rear hubs/stub axles stronger than the 240 ones...should I change my 240 to 280 ones, or is that a waste of money and time? Thanks... Tim

Owen, Harbor Freight has a few different models. The biggest one for $199.00 can bend up to 3", which is probably the way to go. They have cheaper ones, but only bend up to 2", which is probably no good for our purposes. If your exhaust is going to be 2.5" all the way back, you could probably get away with the smaller model, but that would be penny-wise, and pound foolish..no? Harbor Freight takes forever to ship stuff, they're no Summit Racing, but prices are good and quality seems ok. I bought my welder (gas/gasless) from them (reman) and have had no problems at all. Tim

Mikey, I am busy with the R230 rear end swap from a Q45 to my sbc 240z. The rear end cost me $280.00 including the two half shafts. The shafts need to be shortened and I am going to purchase the inner CV hubs from the dealer to put on the outer ends of the shafts. I think that all said, the conversion will cost about $500.00 or so. the conversion has been pretty well documented...search the forum under R230, it is a pretty easy conversion. The diff I got is a 3.5x viscous LSD and are pretty easy to find at the wrecking yards. Tim

Owen et al, From what I can gather, the roadside testing program is no longer in effect. It was a three year research program, initiated by CARB and with the cooperation of the California Highway Patrol. This was a 'research' study by CalEPA, on the effectiveness of mobile source pollution control devices. This program ceased compiling data in 1998/9. Although this was not set up to enforce the laws prohibiting removing emission controls from vehicles, since the CHP was involved, if you happened to in the wrong place at the wrong time with the wrong (or lack of) equipment on your car....whammo...a nice revenue generator for the CHP.Here is a site which explains the program for anyone interested: ARB info Tim [ September 17, 2001: Message edited by: Tim240Z ]

Alsil, Is your fuel pump in good shape? As it gets hot, the pressure drops...had this problem with a used holley blue years ago. I found the problem by manually pouring fuel down the cab throats (with some old vacuum hose connected to a ketchup bottle like the kind you find in diners). As the motor began to miss I started squirting.....smoothed out. Changed the pump...100% Tim

100% correct FairLady, there is a loophole in the regs that sets a limit on the amount of financial hardship would exist to bring an engine up to 'spec'. I believe that it may be even less now (but I'm not sure). I remember that the DMV had to send $$$ back to people who had brought cars in from out of State, and had to pay a bunch of money to register their cars in CA.

Eskimo1, Food for thought....I have personally driven a 1st gen RX7 with over 1000HP under the hood. Very potent. Here is what it had: Twin Turbo Chevy V6 -fuel injected, prepared by Lingenfelter. Corvette ZF 6 speed Narrowed 9" rear (tubbed wells) 345 mm wide 17" rear tires. Full cage and nitrous. This thing could break the tires loose at 120km/hr in third , but had such a lumpy cam that without the fans boosting, it was a dog to drive Tim

I had a similar problem, WOT was great but anything less was terrible...turned out that the needle and seat was not sealing (little dirt in the float bowl), so at anything less than WOT it was flooding slightly. This could also happen if fuel pressure is too high, forcing fuel passed the seat...Holleys like volume not pressure. Easy to check for this...look down the throats of the carb at idle and see if fuel is bleeding in the secondaries. Hope you get your beast debugged soon, sounds like you are having an epic battle Tim

Check out Nordskog'swebsite. They have some very nice digital gauges which can fit in the Z dash without modification. Their catalogue is free, but their prices are quite high, but the quality is apparently excellent and their gauges have memory for high/low readings and the ability to connect warning lights preset at whatever level you like (eg, low oil pressure or high coolant temp). Tim

Scottie or Ross, Could these CV adapters be easily converted to accept the R230 CVs? If not do you know of an existing option, or am I on my own to have a fab shop mill something out for me? The R230 is already mounted, all I need is to have the sideshafts shortened and 'hooked up' to the stubs. Thanks, Tim

Well, I found the problem.... The Manual has a misprint which has the driver's side setback plate labeled as the passenger side. I pulled the engine and swapped the setback plates and it is now purrrrfect. The difference was amazing...about 5 inches of rotation. Tim

I had the same problem with the 750 double pumper on the truck...no fire, but flooded badly...some dirt got in the needle and seat (no screens in the carb inlet). I just took the inlet pipes off the carb and blew (low pressure) air into the inlet. Then I put two additional inline filters on and haven't had a problem since. Tim

Had this with a buddy's T/A. Coil was bad. Replaced with high performance coil and module....did the trick. Tim

Sounds like the pumps on the carbs aren't squirting enough fuel when you stand on it. If its a holley then check that they aren't blocked by manually openning the throttle while looking down the carb barrels. If you see fuel squirting (must be quite a good spray and not just a dribble), you may need either bigger pump jets or a quicker pump linkage cam. If this is a bit too complicated for your abilities (stripping down a carb), it shouldn't cost more than about 50 bucks + parts at a mechanic shop, or spend 30 bucks on a holley manual and then you will be able to do it yourself, along with learning how to all the other adjustments...remember, give a man a fish and he will eat for a day, teach him how to catch fish and he will eat forever! Sorry if that sounds hokey Tim

Drool!!!!! For anyone else with Scottie's enthusiasm and engineering prowess here's some more C4 IRS's on e-bay Corvette Rear Ends on E-bay Tim [ September 05, 2001: Message edited by: Tim240Z ]

MacDaddy, Do you know if those Sanderson headers will fit the JTR position? Tim

Thanks Lone, I guess I can have a carb spacer machined at an angle if the tilt causes any problems Tim

Just to clarify a bit...I understand that, according to the write up in the JTR manual, the engine is offset to the passenger side of the engine bay to mimick the inline 6, what I'm concerned about, however, is that the engine is actually rotated, in other words, if I put a level on the inlet manifold carb flange, it would not read level, rather the carb would be leaning over towards the passenger side of the car. I always believed that the carb should always be as close to level as possible, regardless of the attitude of the car (ie rake or suspension lean)? Tim

I just installed the SBC with the JTR mounts in my 73. I am also using an empty casing of a 700 R4. Weird thing though...it seems the motor is slightly off center to the passenger side....rotated anti-clockwise by about 5 to 10 degrees (as viewed from the front of the car). Has anyone else experienced this? It seems that slotting the mounting holes in the cross member up and down (instead of back and forward as per JTR manual) may work. Any suggestions?? Thanks, Tim

Ross, If you go to the link on this site and just highlight the text with your cursor, you can read up on it....I think the text renders in the same color as the background, but if you highlight it, it becomes visible...that should give you the information needed. Tim

I guess if some work was done to make the fender wells look presentable, this may be a nice unit! Thanks for the link!! Tim

Found this catalogue today at a collegues desk and went to their website. Their prices seem quite good, and from what my collegue says, the technical expertise of the folks there is fantastic! This is like Summit Racing on steroids!!....Have you ever tried to get answers from the people at Summit on a question that is even vaguely technical?! Anyway, in case any of you guys haven't seen this site PortCityRacing.Com There you go....sorry if this post is not in the correct spot. Tim