Tim240z

Grumpyvette, What software are you using to pull these figures? Just curious, Thanks, Tim

Heck Pete, you're probably right...sorry for the misinformation....I think it's time to change to the metric system and join the modern world. They're 3mm thick. Tim

Yeah, I know and that does worry me a bit 'cause it will narrow my choices, but if the offsets/backspacings are OK, then I am not too worried....once I settle on a set of rims, I doubt that I will be changing styles too often. Tim

I have read on other forums that the mixture leans out at higher rpms/boost, so they put a boost referenced injector in the inlet pipe to the carb's air intake. As for timing advance control, can't that be done by changing the advance curve in the dizzy with different weights and springs? Tim

Anyone know if the new shape 3 series BMW wheels will fit the 240, obviously with the correct adapter to 5 lug? The new OEM wheels are very nice and they seem to be available used as people put on aftermarket ones. Tim

Stony, The plates I got with my S&W setup are 1/4 inch thick and 6"x6". You should be able to find seamless tubing fairly easily, I think it would be a better bet. Tim

You could always use the 4 barrel Holley manifold and do a blow thru set up. The upgrades for the Holley are off the shelf, so it shouldn't be too hard. Big trick is the boost referenced fuel pressure regulator and making an airbox for the carb...no biggie... Tim

DEFINITELY buy the JTR manual before you go any further. Get a catalogue from Summit, PAW, and the like. It will give you an idea of prices. Spend a few hours searching through posts here (search function) I'm sure that all of you questions will be answered. BTW dress up items refers to pretty stuff like chrome valve covers, timing covers etc. Check out places like Scoggin Dicky Chevrolet for crate motor prices. They always have ads in the hot rod mags. Good Luck with your project, Tim

The 68 thru 72 trucks use the mount with the female threads (ie no stud). I'm using the spares from my 71 Cheyenne for my Z. Tim

If you're planning on forced induction, I don't think that motor will live. Also, for only a few hundred more you could get a SBC which puts out 350 plus HP. Don't forget to budget for tranny, drive shaft, rear end, fuel pump, radiator, fan, hoses, belts, brake upgrades, engine dress up stuff, conversion parts (motor mounts etc), exhaust, and so on. If you are wise with your cash, you should be able to do it. Wait until the conversion is running before spending on nicey nicey stuff IMO. Hope this helps, Tim PS, do a search for specifics, you WILL find the info you need....it's been done and someone has written about it.

This may be oversimplifying things, but I was thinking that, for a twin setup , using turbos from an engine that has half the displacement would work ie. SBC=5.7L, then use 2x turbos from an engine with around 3L of displacement. Maybe even the L28T turbos would be about right, if using two of them.I don't think that headers will be a problem. The boating stuff should be easy enough to convert. I am planning to use a CARB blowthru setup, maybe FI down the road......but first get the Z together Tim

Heck, when I did mine, I just eyeballed it . I think it's OK. Have a look at:pics Tim

Pete, I've successfully welded a cracked block that way!! Should work out OK. Tim

Yeah, like Lone mentioned, the example given in the JTR manual was a JY motor, with smog, low compression, low HP dog ass motor. Even with the lowest HP new crate motors, you'll be far better off. I would bet that JY motor was barely puting out 180 HP on the flywheel. I think that the 250 HP crates will give break neck acceleration. If you have the cash, you can get a crate motor which is completely complete....Carb to oil pan. Just add exhaust and tranny. Check out Summit, PAW and Scoggin Dickey Chevrolet. All have web sites. Tim

Dang Scottie that is one sweet looking setup....I'm starting to turn a pale shade of green (with envy that is) Thanks for sharing....are you going to be at the MSA WCNs? I wanna see that bad _ss ride, I wanna, I wanna, I wanna Tim

Lone, I may be wrong, but I believe that similar results can be attained by heat treating (very hot then letting cool at a specific rate, which lets the molecules align themselves to optimum matrix). Is that not why all the sideshafts that NASCAR and others use are heat treated? Dunno fa shur. Tim

Even more important, what is your piston to bore clearance? Too much gap and you'll have piston slap. If you are unsure, or not comfortable with the setup, and since you have to put in new pistons anyway, go 30 over and be sure. Tim

With the setup you describe, I very much doubt that you'll notice any difference. Not worth the hassle of returning/exchanging it IMO. Tim

Just did the monthly 'wrench check' on my 240 daily driver and found all of the bolts on the driveshaft loose . I hadn't noticed the increasing vibration until I tightened them an felt how smooth the car drives now . It's like a new car!! Boy, I'm glad I checked, what a drag it would've been if the dang thing had dropped out at 75MPH on the I-405 Looks like the diff mount is getting tired too......I also put the 160 deg thermostat in since the old one was letting the gauge get to over 3/4 before letting in the cool H2O. Now it runs at just over 1/3 on the gauge all the time Tim

If it's the same mount type as the holleys, try a piece of old fireman's hose between the mount and the pump body (the fire stations replace their hoses on a regular basis, so you should be able to pick up a small piece). Then use some exhaust mounts to mount the pump to the body. The kind that have a piece of rubber with threaded rod sticking out of each side. If that doesn't work, nothing will Tim

I have deep pockets.....they're just empty , but I am going to do this....just as soon as I can find a pair of turbos at a very good price....even if they're in need of rebuilding, I can use them for mockup. I reckon the Ford Turbo Coupe units should be good Tim

I agree that using the factory Z sliders put the seat too high. I would fit ok, but I think cosmetically it doesn't look right. I am mounting my Corbeaus directly to the floor, solid mount, no adjustment. Since I WILL be the ONLY one driving this baby, that shouldn't be a problem Tim

I picked up a set of Corbeau Clubman seats for 199.00 each. I did't bother with the brackets, at 70.00 each, I could make up my own for the price of one and still have enough left over for a case of frosties. With the door brace of the roll cage in place it's a tight fit, but it does fit ok. The seats are really comfy. I'm 5'11" and around 200lbs and they are just right. Tim [ November 02, 2001: Message edited by: Tim240Z ]

Ross, When my fuel tank was leaking (around the breather tube that sticks out toward the driver's side), I tried several different epoxies, like JB weld etc, but nothing worked. Then I bought a tube of glue from, of all places, Home Depot. It is only a one part product so I was skeptical as to it's effectiveness, but it worked very well. It dries rock hard and is impervious to fuels, solvents and temperatures. It looks like the cement I used to use for gluing models together when I was a kid. Don't remember the name of the stuff, but can check in my toolbox tonight if you like? I think this stuff will do the trick, maybe followed up with a good quality 'stop leak' in the cooling system. Tim

I'm busy with my install now. Don't get too attached to those nice 'factory' cut ends, you will most likely have to redo them for a good fit. Tim