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Thanks , good to have that sorted out.

Good it all fits up for you. All I can think of is your crank been machined or the plastic calipers aren't accurate. I haven't seen the back of a 2 plus 2 flywheel but it looks like the cast recess is the same as the rb ones. Are you sure it's a 2 plus 2 and not rb? If it were an rb fwheel it could just be the plastic calipers are just measuring 1mm out.

Thanks, that fits with everything i searched.

Just to confirm , is that all from rb20 through to rb30?

I was around when we changed over from leaded fuel to unleaded and we had huge problems with ping on out high comp engines. The answer was to pull timing and loose power but we then got into water injection and got all the timing and power back . We just used the vacuum style injection. It's as simple as putting a 1/8 pipe with a 45deg chamfer on the filter side of the butterfly so it gets no vacuum at idle and as the throttle opens it does .( so the nearest edge of the pipe is 1/8 from the closed plate). Then run clear vac line to a 1/8 pipe going into water resivour .The pipe needs 5-10 tiny holes where the vac line goes on. If you put the vac line over all the holes you get max water, sliding it back to uncover more holes lets it suck air and get less water. simple except I suck at explianing. Worked well for me though. The clear line lets you see the water being sucked.

New 2 z , In all my searching so far the RB 20 should have the 81mm crank. They do have the same bolt pattern , so it's possible you are just pulling the flywheel up against the step. I strongly recomend you check , as it will cause big problems if i'm right.

Starter works well, quiet, enguages nicely, I don't forsee any problems. I will post again after some racing. If anyone has the flywheel hub sizes for RB20, RB26, RB30 , Please post them up. L series 80mm RB25 81mm

The box is in again, the chamfer fixed the clearance issue. I put the slave cyl on and found the bolts a bit long , so they clipped the pressure plate. Found some the right length , problem solved. Clutch travel looks good and has a bit of free play, looking good so far..

The vid is working. You really need to measure more accurately .

For some reason the vidio dosen't work. I put my box back in and the pressure plate just touches the bellhousing above the starter hole. Will post when fixed, just a small grind on the corner back to 45 deg and should be fine. Could just be the clutch I got , as others don't have this problem.

I still haven't put the box in, Had to go to hospital for back injections but will post soon. New 2 z, I'm surprised the flywheel fitted . The rb20 must have the smaller crank hub or the L flywheel would not have gone on. Good to know though as I searched and got the impression all the twincams and the rb30 were the same. If anyone knows the rear crank boss dia for all the motors for sure, the info would be appreciated

Flywheel went on well with the spacer, Just waiting to get a hand to chuck the box back in.

That doesn't look any beter than straping it with some 1200 wet and dry with a bit of kero. Measure it up at least 2 ways on each journal.

I took a look at your build pictures, Heaps of hours there, Nice work.

The clutch I get this way for $210.00 is at least as good as a $400.00 custom one. Flywheel free , Holfords 6 puck 240mm $165.00 and $45.00 for the rings, I got 3 done nearly the same price.

I would love to be using your stuff PMC , But My cars are " Budget Fun" . I just don't have the bank ballance to spend $30.000.00 on a motor , Plus gearbox to suit etc etc. Your stuff is beautiful, just out of my league. Just out of interest What class racing in Australia lets you change everything but the block? Anything I looked into so far has to keep the same number of valves and more, quite restrictive.

I may need to adjust the pivot, the pressure plate fingers are closer to the gearbox than standard. I measured everything up and should have 3.5mm clearance, with the thrust pushed all the way back. That was done to see if I thought it was possible. The clutch was just sitting on the flywheel though , so I'll get a bit more when it's clamping on the clutch disc. I intend to re-measure when the clutch is in and adjust the pivot accordingly. Looking good so far.

Xnke, What through out bearing did you use? Looks like the one I have from a ca20 should work. There is probably other great options out there, most are expensive and I haven't found any good cheaper options. I know some say cheap is never good. My options were over $400.00 for a custom clutch of $165 for a 6 puck ceramic that will hold an RB30. Got the rings back from the shop , should be fitted up in the next few days, fingers crossed.

The only problem I see is having a ring machined, that's easy-cheap. Then the next problem is getting the right throw out bearing as the rb clutch forks are closer to the gearbox. Ray, as to my measurments the teeth are only 1.1mm different offset, In a 30 year old starter I think there could be more than that in just wear from the thrust. Just looking at the starters I have that work fine, the thrust of the gear has worn the end of the bush and the shaft to bush dia is worn too. I don't think 1mm will give trouble, Still could be wrong though. PMC, Ok I agree if a good clutch for my purposes is available, you may be right and it's just me wasting time but I'm yet to find one to compare. How much can you get one for and where from?

Waiting on the machine shop for the ring, will post how it goes when I get it all up and running, fingers crossed.

I re- measured the offset of the teeth. From the measurment I took there is a difference of 1.1mm. Teeth are the same, dia and pitch same, width same . I suppose the 1.1mm could cause a problem but I don't think the throw on the starters will give issues with that. I would see more problems if the teeth and dia were different. Xnke, How long have you been running this flywheel and do you see hear any starter issues?

Thanks Heaps!!

If I could have got an L6 240mm or even the 225mm I would have . My spare sixes are auto and the rb flywheels are readly available local. I'll finish this, one way or the other so at least people can get the facts. Too much info on the web, some good some missleading. I read that others have just bolted them on , that's possible but without locating properly I think they will have problems. I'll get it fitted up and post the success-failure, can go back to the 200mm if necessary. Still if anyone has done it I'd like to hear from you.

The stock one is only 200mm and it's more expensive to get a good clutch over here. The rb one is 240mm and parts are available and cheap. I use the car for rally so I'm hard on it, burned the clutch and looked for something better. Holfords made a 6 puck ceramic for $165 that I was told was good for a na rb30 so should be good on my L20b. I suppose there is a chance I measured wrong, I put a straight edge accross the back- (engine side) of the flywheel. Measured to the edge of the teeth and to the surface that mates the crank then compared the difference. It's dark and I read it with a torch but I think I got it right. I'll check again tomorow in the light. There was only less than 1mm diference and the teeth the same.

I just re measured, a bit dark and with a torch but I think it's right. The teeth offset is within 1mm and teeth width is the same. This is going on a L20B but I have measured the 280 moror and it's the same. I have used the starters on L18, 260,280 and L20b engines with no problems. Gearboxes are the same. Am I missing something?