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Do you mean the forward-aft placement of the teeth?

Hi, I read that you can fit the RB flywheel to the L series. So I bought one. Measured it up and the clutch fingers will be closer to the box but I can fix that with the bearing. The bolts line up and clamped thickness is the same, so it bolts on. Teeth dia and number is the same. Now my question. The crank hub is 80mm and the rb flywheel is machined to 81mm and clearance . Have people been just relying on the bolts to centre it? My bolts put in finger tight will still allow the flywheel to move sideways the .5mm Thanks for any info. I cut .5mm sheet and bent it into a ring, this centralises and feels tight. So I may get a ring machined up, but I'd like to know what others have done, Especially if it has been on their car and had no problems.

Hi Got a quote NZ to Aus, 20KG for $180.00. Problem is they say 20kg is the max they will post.

Hi and thanks Guys. I'm comparing shipping from NZ , as I live in Australia. I thought it would be a heap cheaper to get one from there. I got a Quote , NZ to Aus for 15KG, $140.00, I'll get a quote on the right weight today.

Hi, does anyone know the weight of a LD28 crank?

The engine has never been on a dyno, but I'm sure it won't put Near the 200hp. Should be better than it was , with better compression from the new bore and a bit higher compression ratio from the 2mm overbore. Looks like I'll use the VG30 +40", 88mm pistons.

How much hp is gained, ( all other things being equal). In a l28, stock stroke , Ported head , extractors , Mild cam (not sure of spes) I'm rebuilding my rally car and deciding weather it's worth going to 89mm bore. If I go 88mm I can use std gaskets. Does 100cc make enough difference in hp to be concerned about?

The blow off I was refering to was the blow off valve in place. If that will vent enough flow I was wrong. As I said the bleed system would be better. The surge you seem to be talking about is there on all engines with a standard gate when you are on and off the throttleand isn't enough to break the average turbo. There is no point to this back and forth between us, as it is not helping the thread. If you concider what I put forward as rubbish thats ok with me. I will eventually try this system and then I will leave some more usefull feedback. Sorry for giving an opinion.

If you want to get into a lengthy development needing mods in the system [i don't think venting blow off would be enough] your pressure bleed would work well. The wastegate method only needs MS tuning and a softer spring. I still don't think lag would be a problem [ not instant like your system but ]. With the engine at racing rpm bypassing a heap of exhaust then slaming the wastegate shut should bring boost on verry quickly. Both systems should work fine in practice. Also you seem to think surge will be a problem if I read right. I don't think so, to my knowledge surge happens when the exhaust is not producing enough torque through to the compressor to pump to cope with the flow-pressure on the inlet side. If the car does not surge with a normal waste gate set up, it should not do so with this system. There should be more exhaust available than comming from idle at WOT.

For racing on a track , or driving on a road for that matter, I feel it better to relate boost to tps. That way you have it both ways, power modulation at part throttle and quick to full boost at full throttle. I think you could use the bleed system with tps, maybe that would be better. As you put the foot down it would be there instantly, in proportion to tps ,no lag. But I don't think at high revs , when already bypassing gas through the gate, there would be that much difference. Using the gate is simple and uses what is already on the car.

But if you use a softer spring you can use the MS to control It . So it will want to open at say half your desired boost at low tps , then as tps goes up the bleed changes the curve. Or do I have something wrong, Quite possible!

Why not have the electric boost controller connected through MS to the TPS. That allows you to program in how much boost against throttle. Say half boost at lower throttle grading up as throttle goes up. With this system you will still get boost just as quick if you mash the peddal.

How much advantage is there in switching the bypass on and off? We could use a vac operated heater switch controlled by MS or temp switch. That would allow us to shut the external bypass.

Hi I noticed that some of the gaps in the joints are a bit wide. As I would like to try a manifold fab myself , I was wondering how you clean any burn through. With all the bends and twists you couldn't do it with a solid burr, from outside. I have herd of people using some kind of hone that flexes through the tube. But I havent seen it. Thanks

Are you sure the cam is as labeled? I have been sent a cam that was not as described. Maybe you actually have a bigger cam than you think.

It's not a drag car and I don't want to compromise other aspects of handling. But really isn't every race car a drag car part of the time. Sure you want to get around the corner as fast as possible, and in no way will I make the car unstable just to be quick off the mark. That said once you get the car straight it is a drag to the next corner. Straight line traction is just as important as cornering traction.

Yes I agree a bit of squat is ok as long as the geometry is stable. Although too much and the car, by changing pitch every time you hit the throttle, can upset the handling , or moreso give the feeling that it does. Then if you react to the change in pitch you only make things worse. I have seen a well sorted mx5 with soft suspension go around the bitumen motorkhana course, it was set soft for road and track. The guy kicked the arse of most other mx5's that were set hard to stop all the roll. Thing is the mx5 can keep geometry under roll ,and the guy was not put off by the roll. However most poeple would have gone faster in the harder cars because they seem more predictable and are easier to catch on flip flop. I intend to leave slight squat but if possible make it adjustable so I can try other setings. I also intend to have some dive left in the front for some transfer to the front brakes, also adjustable. The rear pivots will probably have to be decided on and fixed, so opinions on the amount of camber gain in roll would be apreciated. So far it has been sugested to have about 1 degree for every 2" of travel and start with only 1degree static to maximise take off geometry. The static does not matter as it can be changed. So how much do you guys think the camber change should be for every 2" of roll travel?

Thanks for the pic's . I can't go as radical as your mate , but I do intend to raise the pivots on the crossmember, lift the diff as much as possible, and move the outside pivot back to reduce the camber-toe change. Does anyone know what camber increase on roll would be a good amount to aim for? I will be aiming for about 10 deg anti squat if possible as it now has about 10deg squat.

That car handles great ,no squat and it appears not too bad for camber change. I would love to see the actual mods don to the suspension. I was talking to a guy on another forum with a bmw and he is looking to do something similar to me as well, because he has the squat -camber-toe problems too. So obvoiusly the suspension on that car has more than a set of hard springs, which is the most common way to keep angles under control. Hard springs limiting travel may be the most common way to run but not the best. That is why I was hoping someone had been there done that and save me some time and mistakes. 260det,are you running a 280zx? If so what mods have you done to the rear suspension?

It is semi trailing but the main change from the 510 is that it too runs a chapman strut instead of having the captive spring with seperate shock. I have found a lot on modifying the 240-80 rear but not much on the 280zx. I have one I am going to rally and was hoping to get some mod info. I intended to lower the axle mount on the swing arm to get the push angle down so as to ilmit squat. I was also going to move the outside pivot back to reduce camber and toe change. Any thoughts?

Does anyone know why they changed the rear suspension from 240z to 280zx? Is there any real advantage one to the other? datsun 1600-180b- early skyline etc had very similar suspension to the 280zx. So they went to the 240z design and then went back. I know the 280zx design had toe out in compression problems ,and both have excessive camber change, but how does one really compare to the other?

You said you reduced squat, How did you do that? I was thinking of puting a spacer under the suspension mounts to achieve this. If it is to work like anti dive on the front, I just need to change the angle that the load transfers to the body at. Is this correct? And if so ,How much do you have to change it to make a difference?

Ok guys ,the caliper is heavy compared to alloy ones. The volvo is much more compact and lighter than the hilux. As far as the Technology in the new calipers, please let me know what you are talking about. A caliper that does not flex ,and has pistons and pads equal to another ,will slow the car exactly the same. The only technology, is in reducing weight and not getting too much flex. I do believe weight reduction especially unsprung, is important. But at the moment I would rather have better stoping power ,at the expense of handling. In the future I hope to get a set of brand name light calipers , just not now. To solve my problem at this moment is to find the disc with the least modification possible.So far the 280zx vented caliper with a spacer to push it back towards the strut or Magna verada, and get it machined.Possibly another disc. Thanks

Ok then Richard what options are you talking about? I dont know of any other 4 spot calipers that bolt on except the hilux, and they are much more weight.

The volvo caliper fits on the 180b strut:) the caliper does not line up with a 280zx disc:sad: So I'm looking for a disc that has about 10-12mm less offset from the mounting bracket to the inner side of the disc.