col

Along those same lines. You could go down to the junk man and get an old whipper snipper, an electric one of course, and use the flexable shaft on that.

Thanks for the reply. I have found the volvo swap to be a comon swap for rally cars from 1600 ,right through to 240z. It is a money thing as there are better brakes.( really only the weight, as they are cast). But from what I can find . The non vented caliper has a bolt space of 76mm, same as a 1600 to 180b. With this strut you put the 280zx vented disc on, and the vented volvo caliper bolts straight up , easy 4 spot vented upgrade. Not so easy if you have the 90mm spacing, unless you are willing to go back and find 1600-180b struts to bolt in. I have been told some early 240z have the 76mm gap. Also if you don't wan't vented .There are non vented volvo calipers that just bolt on with standard non vented disc.(76mm)

I got a reply from a rally forum. A guy there uses ferodo DS2500s pads and says they are good.

I have read on these forums before abuot the common swap of volvo calipers. Except from you there have been no other posts ,so maby I posted it wrong, as when I look in the new post section the thread does not come up ,It only comes up when directly serching the brake,wheel suspension area. What do you think?

I'm no expert but I would think the stock arrangement would be best. Even at half throttle you will be affecting which runner gets air , if you twist the butterfly.

No I haven't , I was down the wreckers to find the calipers, and found that there were both calipers for vented, and non vented discs. As people have said on the forum that the volvo calipers are bolt on , most people must use the non vented type. My Question was, do the vented type fit with a disc off something else? I have searched the forum and found nothing , but maby I am serching with the wrong titles. Is it a problem getting good pads for them? Thanks Col

Hi I'm thinking of fitting the volvo calipers that will bolt on.(260 2 seater) My question do the ones for the vented discs work and if so what disc do you use?

Too late now ,but I would have rough sanded the clutch plate on the side that goes against the new pressure plate. Then treat it as a new clutch. Most if not all clutch mob's, recomend to take it easy for the first 3 to 500km. I too would like to know if this is necessary because it's impossible to do on a car that only gets driven at the track. Maybe there is another way to bed it in. Anyone know how to bed in the clutch on a race only car?

From what you said , if I got it right , you sent a standard manifold and they want to make an coppy of that. Didn't they originally ask for a manifold to coppy exactly? I think we need to find the best manifold that someone is willing to send to them ( they should send it back when finished). There was a manifold that most people seemed to agree on.(Someone posted pictures of it) . Was that just pictures, or does semeone have it to coppy? If not maby post a question to all members asking for help getting a good manifold, that can just be cpooied exactly.

Is this still going ahead? What do we need to keep it going?

1 fast z , What was the max size you bored to by offseting the bores? And did the offset have any effect on the engine, I suppose the gudgin pin has plenty of sideways movement, but still if pushed 20''' to one side it might push a bit sideways on the piston. Thanks Col

An option for the intake is to have bakelight ( or some other insulator)spacers mabe to fit between the manifold and head. I have no info on performance gain , But I do have experience with having a car with and without the spacer. With the spacer you could hold your finger on the manifold close to the head ,without it you burnt your finger. I think that would be better than coating. Col

KMack has camber tops that also adjust caster. They have what looks like rings with offset holes so when twisted you can get just camber, or by moving the pivot back or forward as well you also adjust caster. Has anyone used these? I know you were joking about having the camber tops slotted back to front ,but these do both. I would think they would be good in the rear. Do you think adding some caster in the rear would be good?

Why is the pulse tuned, divided manifold ,not for the masses? As long as it can be squeezed under the intake I see no reason not to modify the exhaust to fit. It's been claimed, the tuned , divided manifold, could help spool by as much as 1000 rpm. Isn't that worth a bit of exhaust work? These manifolds will be so much cheaper than getting " a one off " made the money saved (or just a small amount of it) could be spent on the exhaust. But if I'm the only one thinking this way, I will shut up as the only way this will work is in bulk purchase.

If equal length is not important how come all the big tuners, getting huge hp use them. I'm sure it's not just because they look pretty. People go to great length to balance, blueprint, port matching, even balancing rocker gear. You tell mean engine that is in perfect balance won't be put off balance by having one runner 12 inches longer than the other before it hits the turbine. I'm not saying the log won't be an improvement over standard. Just why not go for the best possible system.

I have read that the valves in a l6 head are at 12 deg off center to the bore. I have also read about a guy re-rilling the valve guides back to parallel to the bore gives huge flow increases. the reasoning being at valve lift at .5-.6 the valves get closer to the bore and shroud the valve. Can anyone give their experience with this idea.?

My vote would be for equal length. If we are going to the trouble to have these made, so we can get better performance, why be concerned about changing the exhaust to suit it. I think we will only get one chance to get these made cheaply. Go for the best performance possible. That's my vote anyway.

Will they be delivering direct to each person,or will you have to buy in a batch and sell them on? I ask because I'm from Australia and direct delivery would save a heap on postage. Thanks

Does anyone have any idea the actual advantages in using one of these tube manifolds? (against a ported manifold) It seems the only way to build it cheaply will not be equal length. Apart from air con ,wouldn't it be better to move the turbo to the center so it's a bit more equal? I'm not knocking the idea ,as I'm interested in one too. I would just like to have an idea on the gain I could expect. Thanks

Be very carefull bringing over $3500.00 worth of goods . I suggest contacting Emillio from 949 racing. He is the guy that has been selling the special wheels for the MX5. He is a nice guy and will probably let you know what he has learned about sending wheels over here. As I said before I got my wheels fine with no extra charges but I know others did not. I can't remember how much extra the guys had to pay , but it was a heap. Col

Thanks for the help guys. Can't thank Joel enough. We arranged to send it by mail. I'm sure a container of z gear would sell well over here and that is the cheapest freight, But do you know how much stuff fits in a container ,HEAPS. I think it would take years to get enough of the small stuff to fill it. Anyway the deal is now done,so Thanks again guys. Col

I also have a MX5 and there is a guy over there that makes special rims. I got mine delivered fine ,no extra charges. Some guys got hit with import tax. It was really an incorrect charge as the price only went over the $1000.00 if you included freight. They ended up paying because if they didn't they would not have got the wheels. Not that that has any bearing on this situation. Does anyone know why we can't use shipping by sea any more? It used to be available , but no more, just don't know why. Thanks Col

Thanks Guys. If there was a cheaper way we would probably have been told by now ,So it looks like the USPS at $153.33 Is the best I can do.

Thanks guys I really appreciate all the trouble you are going to just to help me. Thanks Col

The air filters that are on my SU's now are the round paper type .These have a flat chrome plate less than 2" from the SU opening, so that the air has to turn 90 deg and then go through the filter. Even this must make some difference at high rpm (air flow). Do the domed foam filters make any difference?