rbs30

I am running a R32 GTR short nose R200 CLSD,and a VG30DETT 5speed with rb26 bellhousing.

If you dont want it coming on all of a sudden,whatever you do,DONT put a .83 exh GT35R on.They are very snappy on on a rb30det.I think the 35R 1.06 exh would be perfect for what you want.The power is quite linear for the size of the turbo and can make good power.Anything over 500rwhp is just going to make it more difficult to drive.I have enough trouble keeping mine straight down a drag strip.I cant imagine trying to go around a corner on the accelerator with that sort of power in a zed.Thats just my opinion anyway.

I would like to really recomend a GT35R or a TO4Z.Personally i have a GT35R with a 1.06 exh housing on my rb30/25 240z and it is great but starts running out of air at around 500rwhp.You can get more out of it but its not efficient.If you want more power go the TO4Z.

My guess would be that you have yourself a set of pistons for the rb30et instead of pistons for a rb30e..when using a 26 head on a rb30,rb30et pistons will give you a cr of around 7.0 and rb30e pistons will give you a cr of around 8.3..

Yeah the quality is excellent.Never seen this kit myself but every tomei part ive ever seen has been every bit as good as hks.

Im running a microtech lt12s..not sure if it will support traction control.I have a heap of aux in/outputs left so it might.my tuner is 1 of the best microtech tuners there are,so i will ask him. I am looking into building some subframe connectors for it and possibly a half cage.ANDRA has told i need a full cage before i can race again because on my 3rd run ever i ran a 10.65@138. but i drive the car every day and im 6'3 so a full cage will make it really difficult to get in and out of.So i gotta decide weather to not drive it so much,cage it and race it,or to not race anymore.

Excellent info...Thanks a lot for your help..I will get the coilolver kit straight away and also I will have a look at the toyo RA1-r's because they are a lot more readily available than nitto's etc over here.

Thanks guys.That makes a lot of sence because a friend of mine has a 13bt rx3 that also make crazy power but it doesnt have the same problems as me. But it doesnt make anywhere near the torque of my car.So how do you go fitting a 275 under the back?Just the 8' coilover kit and roll the fenders?or do you need to flare the fenders a bit?I was thinking of going to a yokohama advan.Everyone over here tells me they are almost identical to a nitto extreem but half the price.I think if i can put a 275 advan on,that would help a LOT. As for pics,if you would like to pm me your email i will send you pics.the only ones i have are way too big to post and my nero isnt working.Never bothered to get a dyno print out but i will be up there next week.and i will get one if they still have mine on file..

Im just trying to get some ideas on how to get some traction.My car is a daily driven rb30det 240z.I was making 550 rwhp but was just frying tyres.I spent some time on the dyno today so i am now running 7 psi 1st gear 12psi 2nd gear and 15psi from there on.It feels a lot better now but it still needs improvement.I am running the stock soft springs and 225 road tyres..Will coilovers help??Different springs??Any help would be appreciated.Thanks

I agree..I love the way a stock internal rb26 performs just with simple bolt ons.I love the performance of the rb30 twin cam as well but i wouldnt go to the effort of swapping to a 30 block if you already have a compleate rb26..A lot of people here in aus build rb30's because a block can be had for AU$50 easily,and a rb25/26 head for $500/700 whereas a complete rb26 is still easily over $4000.

I love it!! very nice car and install...If you ever get stuck with anything on the microtech send me a pm.The guy who tunes my car and is also a good friend is the head of microtech global and is the biggest microtech dealer in the world.I can ask him questions for you..BTW i couldnt tell by the pics but did you have the lt12 screwed down?a lot of them have problems with the wires just near the pin in/out connectors from not being screwed down properly.

I think it really just comes down to what you think is best.Ive never had much to do with the l28 but a lot of guys on here are making awsome power out of them and i guess you cant argue with that.The rb25/26 is a newer cleaner motor and I think will ultimatly have more power potential if you are looking to do a lot of mods and also excellent power can be had with minor mods.The rb20 is a good motor but i dont think its worth going to the effort of doing the install for the power they produce.My 240 had a rb20 in it before i changed over to the rb30(best thing i ever did).As for the sr20 ive never messed with them myself but a friend of mine has a stock internal sr20 (gt35r turbo etc) in a 69 toyota corolla (sprinter in us??) and he is making 405 rwhp.So really,they are all good motors its just a personal preferance thing as to which way you go.

no probs..pm sent.

You are probaly right BUT how much power can you possibly want in an s30??im making near 550rwhp on 15psi without nos.my car is my daily driver and i drag race a bit. im am CERTAIN that i could make 650++rwhp if i ran 20psi and a shot of nos.The torque of the rb30 is atronomical(couldnt quote off the top of my head)..Im still running just linished stock rods,balanced stock crank,stock cams etc.so there is plenty of development left in it yet. Basicly what im trying to say is you will easlily make the all the power you can possibly want out of a rb25 head and i think the extra $$ you will spend on a 26 head and drilling the block would be better spent on chassis/suspension work etc..thats my opinion anyway.. By the way daewoo im just up in newcastle!!

Stealth-z is right...ive done a 26 and a 25 head and the 26 head requires the head stud threads in the block to be drilled and tapped and the rear oil feed to be blocked..the 25det head needs the vct oil feed to be blocked and an external feed to be drilled and tapped if you want to run the vct..the 25de head bolts straight on..25 de and det heads have the correct size studs to suit the rb30 bottom end.. PERSONALLY i dont think there is that much advantage in a rb26 head other than the plenum and solid lifters,and you will have real problems fitting the stock crossover rb25 plenum (in a s30 body if thats what you are doing) I have a rb25det head on a stock rebuilt rb30e bottom end with a greddy plenum and im making 548rwhp on 15psi with a gt35r

I agree..

yeah the 12at was only brought out in japan..a fair few get imported here to aus though.. however they are starting to get scarce now..yes they have the 4 bolts on the front for the engine mounts and yes they are good hp as my rx3 made 490rwhp with a ta45

You can DEFINATLY use a 12at (old cosmo) front timing cover on the front of a jc cosmo 13bt it also has the turbo oil drain built in and also has a mechanical metering pump..

I had a jc cosmo eng in my rx3 and i just had a series 4/5 (fc) 13bt oil metering pump on it...never had a problem

Im sorry if this question has been answered before but i tried the search function and i coulndn't find anything..Has anybody succesfully done this using a rb26 bellhousing in an s30?I know it all bolts together but what do you do about the rear shifter location?

hey mate...im in aus and i just finished that exact same conversian. i did it with a 5 speed though..The castlemaine rod shop mounts and sump work fine.i didnt use them myself but a friend of mine used them on an rb20..The only problem with the rb30det is bonnet clearance..you will need to use a Greddy style or a custom plenum as the stock crossover pipe doesnt fit..I am also running a gt35r and a normal high mount manifold wont allow it to fit under the bonnet either..a custom steampipe manifold needed to be made