EastTnZ
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Posts posted by EastTnZ
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I'm upgrading to a 2-bar map sensor for a SD (speed density) tune. The stock maf/map combo will max out the maf sensor and it won't know the correct air/fuel mixture past a certain boost pressure. 2 bar is good for up to 15 psi and I don't intend to pass that. GM part number 12615136 is the one I purchased.
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So you're ordering adapters from stock manifold to t4? Or premade piping?
I'm welding the v-bands to the manifolds then 2" piping to the t4 flange. No adapters because there's no room where the bends are (they would hit the frame rails).
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Roughly $775 for the manifolds, ls6 springs, s366, map sensor, v-bands & wastegate but Keith's picture is priceless!How much money does that picture of parts represent?
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ZAttack is the z show at Nissans U.S. Headquarters in Franklin, TN just south of Nashville, TN. It's every other year and 2016 is the next one. It's put on by the Middle TN Z Club. Oh and it's in April!
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Haha yeah no joke, twins would be fun on your LS2 Keith! The way I figure it is a new z28 has 505 hp and is all about handling and that's what I'm shooting for on this project car. Hot side piping will be in on Thursday and the fun begins after this weekend! Hot side is all here after that! Supras run in the 20's (lbs of boost) with this turbo on 2JZ's so my measly 10 psi should make the turbo outlast the engine. Conservative tune is what I'm hoping for in longevity! Kieth, new goal is to drive it turbo'd to the ZAttack in the spring!
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Thanks for the compliment! I'm glad somebody could get some use out of what I posted!
I went with Borg Warner because they're one of the top 3 manufacturers of quality turbos (couldn't bring myself to go Chinese on the turbo), it's the largest s300 series turbo at 66mm, and ive seen a few single 5.3 s366 builds and they meet my 500-550 minimum rwhp goal at fairly low boost. The turbo is rated at 320-800 hp but it's not an s400 size package. I could always swap a t4-t6 adapter and put on s475 if I planned for its size now. Oh and it's cheap! Lol
Most people do run dual s366's for BIG POWER but I don't have the room with an ac compressor on the drivers side. I have a feeling that 500+rwhp is enough for me in this tin can! I'm only at 274rwhp right now so it'll be a big boost!
and I'll list all the specs as its completed in this thread so stay tuned! I'll probably have frost mail order tune it first for a startup tune to check for leaks. Unsure where to go for a dyno tune near me at this time though. **edit: Frost doesn't do mail order FI startup tunes anymore due to having to explain it 1,000+ times and it being a pita to keep retuning via mail because of so many variables, so I'm going to take it to be dyno tuned when it's ready.** -
Well, due to peer pressure and mostly the need for speed, I will be jumping on the boost bandwagon within the next 6 months or so!
After much deliberation I will be installing the following:
-Borg Warner S366 .91 A/R Airwerks Turbo
-down and forward truck non egr manifolds
-2" hot side with a 44mm wastegate
-3" cold side with a 50mm bov
-10 lbs of boost and see where I'm at power wise
-80 lb/hr ev1 injectors
-dual walbro 255's
-wideband O2 and boost gauges with a dual pillar pod mount
-possible ls6 cam and springs
-keep vintage air!
I just could not have my Duramax faster than the Z!
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Is it tuned for 91+ gas and you're running 87? Mine did this until I drained my tank and filled up fresh with high octane. Bam solved my problem. I was told I could run the low range of rpms until the low grade gas was gone but I couldn't stand it lol
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How thick are he pieces on the transmission mount? 1/2 or 3/8 or 1/4" thick?
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I'm running JCI mounts and a ls1 alternator mount with a '01 truck alternator low on the drivers side of my 5.3
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My starter was stuck a few weeks back. 1 click when you turn the crank. Tapped on the starter with a hammer and the brushes broke free and it's atarted ever since. Only trouble I've ever had.
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I think I paid $55 shipped on eBay for my ss lines for all 4 corners. My booster was bad though too and a night and day feel once I swapped out the bad one. My mc was leaking fluid into it...
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Congrats! Glad it's up and drivable! It makes it way more fun to work on when you have that motivation of what the v8 feels like in a light z!
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If you have a Ford Taurus fan like my setup with chevythunder then the low speed won't come on until 200 degrees and the high speed setting is like 234 degrees! Leave your serp belt off and let it rise to 200 degrees if you already hooked up the water pump hoses and have it full of coolant.
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I had a whistle type of sound on mine a while back and changed the water pump, tensioner and another pulley.... Swapped the belt and it fixed the noise... I was not amused lol but now I have a new serpentine setup haha
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First time I fired mine up the temps rose up quick! I then took off the upper radiator hose and poured antifreeze in until it come out the top. Fired up the engine and its ran great and cool ever since. I figured and was wrong by thinking that only filling up the radiator that the thermostat would open up when the engine got hot.
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If you're running a walbro 255 they are more pushers than pullers. I'd recommend lowering the pump if it were me from the picture shown above. Exhaust pieces and mounts look good! Good luck with the build!
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Looks awesome! Driveshaft looks pretty nice! If I build another I'd go 4.5" gauges!
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Yes I also went through him for my gauges and he's great to deal with! You won't regret the speedhut gauges!
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Awesome job and it's still in one piece I asume! Throw up some pictures!
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That's how I left mine and probably why it worked all of the sudden. I tightened down the speed bleeder line and haven't touched it in 10,000 miles.
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Yeah I believe the same thing happened to me as well. I left mine for a week or so after I couldn't get it bled then went outside and it worked like a charm. I'm fixing to rebuild my transmission so good idea keith I'll try that method and hope for the best, thanks for the tip!
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I agree, run the wire close to the bellhousing and crossover to the battery. I run the bendable boot spark plug wires from msd I believe and they're awesome. The main reason was to not sit the wires on the headers and I also used those red plug boot heat sleeves. One of them sits on the header, changed from red to white but no damage to the boot or the insulators. They just work and that's after nearly 10k miles. Those headers do look pretty sweet though!
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-Tilton 75-875U (7/8")
I used this one in my swap
and I'll list all the specs as its completed in this thread so stay tuned! I'll probably have frost mail order tune it first for a startup tune to check for leaks. Unsure where to go for a dyno tune near me at this time though. **edit: Frost doesn't do mail order FI startup tunes anymore due to having to explain it 1,000+ times and it being a pita to keep retuning via mail because of so many variables, so I'm going to take it to be dyno tuned when it's ready.**
1976 280z 5.3 TR6060 Build
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Yes, well it should! Lol I'll check tonight and make sure but it's an LS1 style map sensor. Some do not come with rubber gaskets so I'll have to check and see if mine did. 2-bar is good up to 14.5 psi and after that it guesses...