EastTnZ
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Posts posted by EastTnZ
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If you're gonna have to paint it anyways I say no. Your cons are as many or more than the pros in this car and it's too much guesswork. Took me around 1.5 years to find a decent swap candidate for $2kand I drove it home 300 miles. Original paint, engine, no body work previously done etc... You could spend the same buying a $2k shell from Arizona and ship it to your house for the same and feel better about it. Then I also sold my engine and trans to offset the cost so try to get all you can with it is my recommendation. Good luck finding a chassis. They're still out there don't give up it's a blast to drive and it turns heads alllllll day long!
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Well I have a small update after 950 miles I didn't know what went wrong with my car. Mainly the brakes and they were fine all day going 450 miles round trip to Nashville from Knoxville to the z attack. Everytime I kicked it out of gear and pressed the brakes it would pickup a vibration through the pedal and the rpms would drop down to ~350 rpm and then catch itself before it almost died. I searched online and this was a brake booster issue.
There are 2 boosters (8.5" and a 10") and good luck trying to find somewhere in stock refurbished. Advance auto and autozone were unavailable and I got the last one at Oreillys.
Anywho I got it installed today in less than 2 hours and it is a night and day difference! I still have to bleed the brakes at all four corners but now with my hawk front pads I can lock up my fronts and stop on a dime with no change in idle rpm of 800-900 rpm. I went from squish to perfect brakes. Apparently it's suggested to change out the booster every few years but mine was quite old and the paint peeled off the bottom like it had been on fire/master going bad so I'll be replacing that fairly soon.
Overall no complaints just a lot of complements, couple handful of offers to buy it and tons of fun taking turns! -
Looks awesome! Congrats on the progress! Your tank is already sumped and mine starves when going downhill with less than like a 1/4 tank. I have foam in mine if it matters.
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Let's see. You're angry there's no pictures on an unfinished rear end setup that could be the best for an s30 chassis and you're being pushy. Personally I'm waiting on it to be completed at his speed so it's done right and powder coated or the final design with all the bugs worked out. It's worth the wait. I see jacked up prices for your kit lol. Let the man breath I hated my civil engineering finals with 6+ core classes each semester for the final 2 years of college.
To the OP, good luck on finals and take pics when it's done. There's no need to rush it, the cars have been out for 44 years (older than us lol) and a little longer wait won't kill us.
Props on designing it from the wide array of parts used I can't wait to see the final product! (Now stepping off of soap box)
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I went with speedhut gauges for the main two: GPS Speedo (160 mph) and Tach (8k)
But I went with GlowShift's 7 Color LED gauges for the triples: Water Temp, Oil Pressure, and Fuel Gauge (all 3 electronic so you only have to run the wires)
Fuel pressure gauge will eventually find its way inside the cabin but it's on the fuel rail at the moment. Volt gauge would be nice but I bought a ridiculously high CCA battery and it shouldn't have any trouble turning the lowely 5.3 over until it's completely dead.
However like we talked earlier, my fuel gauge hooked up to the GM style (0-90 ohm) sender in my fuel cell only reads from my foam to the top of the tank. Which I equate to around 1/3 of the tank capacity or 5 gallons... So if it reads 1/8 tank then I know I've got 10 gallons or less haha, but I also noticed that under 5 gallons and on downhill curvy backroads that it'll starve my pump so I try to keep it near the 10 gallon mark or higher. It's WAY cheaper than filling up the diesel so I don't mind!
I would recommend going 1 size bigger than the triple gauges I purchased (2-1/16"), they seem smaller than expected.
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No problem, anytime. I'm glad I've got it for the smoothness and it being a big power holder for a 6 speed but even at that like SunnyZ said it's not quite as forgiving but we'll see once I get it rebuilt. Should be pretty sweet. It just took some figuring out on the driveshaft since it isn't a slip yoke and the remote shifter. Also note that I have a button now for a reverse lockout because it's not connected to my T56 configured harness...
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I love the feel of it besides 2/3 grinding. When they hook it moves on with it! I love it but I look like a 12 year old stealing a car when I grind it lol
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If you've already got it installed I'd leave it or just build it stronger. It's not worth the hassle if yours is fine.
However I'm going to rebuild this one and it'll be fine. If you purchase one of these I reccomend new. Nobody sells a good shifting no problem 6 speed transmission. There's a reason they're selling it. 9/10 are all bad and have issues. Grinding I knew about but it was a "good deal" at the time because it's a $3k+ Trans new.
Time to rebuild it and have fun with it!
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Yeah I'm going to look into the cost of parts and the difficulty of rebuilding myself. I've heard just takes billion pictures and be careful and it can be done. We'll see as it'll save a lot of money.
Shifting is smooth when it doesn't grind. Ran the dog crap out of it today past 5k rpms through 3rd and 4th gear earlier and no ticking afterward so we'll see but I'm still thinking cam/lifters/tune (+75 rwhp)...
Back on the original subject, the trans shifter mount was cake, .75" angle and some bar stock steel and a tko500/600 takeoff shifter. Little bit of welding and bam done. Shifter placement is wherever you want and it's pretty nice but you have to build a custom crossmember too. John wants to know how I accomplished it and probably sell it as a kit piece if I get back to him with it but I haven't had the time. Too busy fending off the people wanting to buy it every time I stop somewhere haha
Oh and a pro 5.0 shift lever and 6 speed ball.
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Yeah I know I felt bad not swapping to drive but I'm still grinding 2nd and 3rd bad on this Trans. It needs a rebuild so bad, I'm gonna teach the fiancé to drive a stick with it first then send it in to get rebuilt haha
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Ok, I actually did not attach it to the trans tunnel as it screwed with the alignment of the shifter linkage rod I made. I installed the 4 point bracket and connected the linkage rod. Sadly I have no real good pics of the console removed and it installed. I did not cut out any more from the factory hole in the tunnel. However since it is a remote mount shifter you could make it go wherever you need it to go. I copied a few others I saw from ls1tech and other sites. Not many to copy from though. It's a newer tranny to swap.
I figured out how to add pics on here I think! (thanks Keith!!)
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Subscribed!
I can't wait for the final results. If it goes as planned I'm turbo within 12 months after this potential future upgrade. Keep up the great work!
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On my 300zxt axle swap the drivers side was the short one. Your car looked awesome at the meet yesterday and those new slicks are massive.
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Ls1 intake $100, new tb $90, used injectors and fuel rails $50. Half of the $500 cost and it looks better IMHO.
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I had my 280z sprayed last Saturday over primer. I'm interested as well to see how it holds up over time.
It took 3 gallons to cover it in white. And then we put on a half gallon of pearlizer but I'm not too keen on the splotchiness of the pearl. Maybe we didn't put it on thick enough. At any rate I'm happy it's all one color! Haha
The spray gun worked great though! It was a $350-400 blue spray gun from lowes I believe is what my friend said. He sprays bedliner and other thick stuff with it. It's electric, so my job was to follow around making sure the extension chord didn't hit the z as we sprayed it.
I haven't figured out how to add pics so I have mine on my flickr page linked in my signature. Overall I'd do it again it looks great, he said up to a 3 year life with regular washing and using a car cover.
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As the title says I'm looking for used 280z emblems. I bought my z after a guy started to strip it down for paint and i was "promised" all the emblems shipped in a box to me when he found them. He never found them...
I have the hood and rear quarter emblems.
I am in need of the front lower "280z" fender emblems and the "datsun" & "280z" that go on the hatch.
Pins must be intact. I live near Knoxville, TN.
Thanks!
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My setup is similar to Slow78z's:
Sanderson headers to dual 2.5" all the way back just past the trans then Y into a 3" the rest of the way into a borla muffler. Mine is a tuned stock as a rock 5.3L (for now). I'll get more videos up soon but on YouTube I have a video as I'm backing out of the muffler shops garage. Search "280z 5.3 TR6060 New Exhaust" and bidhigh15 is my handle there.
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Same here, I'm heading up at 7 am eastern time (6 central) and get there around 9 am to the event but I'm not staying the night either on driving home late. It's a little south of Nashville in Franklin, TN. It takes me around 3 hours to get there from Knoxville.
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5w-30 oil change and no difference after i go a few miles down the road. It starts ticking after heavy acceleration. Other than that it started sputtering last night... Never done that before, but let's just say nearing the bottom of the tank it's a go fast car only or else the fuel goes away from the pickup and was dropping fuel pressure bad lol. Time to go to the gas station
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Lol I did the same thing trying to bleed it and eventually just stopped. Went outside to warm it up to operating temp before it got down in the single digits and tried to put it in gear and it went so I drove it around and it worked great so if it's not broke don't fix it lol. My exhaust is one single piece all welded together minus the tri-bolt flanges and where it bolts to the heads so I'll check them but it sounds like it's a lifter on the pass side near the firewall. Tried marvel mystery oil to clean it but it came back yesterday. Gonna change to 5w-30 and a new filter and see where that gets me tonight.
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Ok so after a little time off from the z I got my parts in and installed a new rear main output shaft seal for the TR6060 and tightened up the Trans cooler lines and it doesn't leak anymore! So I drove to the mountains to hike with the fiancé and drove home after that 25 miles or so and it hasn't leaked a drop, finally! Also installed a new pioneer CD player that sounds pretty good too. Going to remove some natural weight reduction tonight, change the oil, top off the Trans & diff fluid, and put a few more miles on it to test it out, and the clutch is breaking in more every time I drive it. One flaw though, a stupid lifter is ticking intermittently now...only after I get on it hard above 3k rpms. After you cruise around below 2k rpm it will quiet down after a while
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Hope it came with a bellhousing for that much haha and dang that's a lot of money
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And how much would you charge to make another set lol I'm in the market soon for the compac in my '76 280z
Looks good keep up the good work!
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Speed hut GPS is sweet! I have it and it takes less than a minute then it is good to go. Can keep 1/4 mile times and 0-60 times etc... Easy install and no drilling. Ihiryu on hybridz has discounts, lookup the group buy thread. Good luck with whichever way you go
Time for the 5.3 to get some more power
in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board
Posted
Which intake are you buying now? First ever pull with boost?
Stock LS1 intake correct?