Bowtiez

I can't seem to get hold of Gabriel so ............. I am using the JTR heavy duty differential connectior (?) to a 1310 Chevy U Joint. I do not know what will be necessary to hook up the R230. Is it a 4 bolt set up like the R200? I am not familiar with the R230. What is the best and strongest R230 LSD to buy? Are there different lengths? I am running a Ground Control coilover set up with Tokico adjustable struts I bought from techno toy. Will these parts work with the conversion? This looks like a better option than Factory Five's 8.8 IRS or Heidt's corvette style IRS.

You know what assumption is, the mother of all screw ups. You should have jacked up the rear of the car and used the driveshaft lockup as the determining factor, not the turning of the rear wheel especially if it is an open rear end. I made the same mistake! Also, each clutch has its own specs and requirements that it takes an engineer to read and understand. The DF is a little different. You can't install that clutch disc backwards and bolt down the pressure plate.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125342&highlight=centerforce

Please check my post on installing that clutch. The master/slave cylinder size must match up. Too small a master cylinder will result in insufficient filling of the slave cylinder. Also, the rod length of the master cylinder is important. My main problem was the lack of freeplay which was solved by using a cut down midplate as a spacer. Was the CF dual friction worth it? Yes, pedal pressure is easy and the hook up is solid. How you are supposed to put the recommended 450 miles before dropping the hammer on semi race car, I will never know.

Make sure your master cylinder diameter is compatible with your HTOB. I had to ♥♥♥♥ can my original and get the next size. Also, you need to take a look at the length of the clutch rod. The problem with sizing is lack of volume to properly "inflate" the slave cylinder, thus less throw. Screw the damn phone techs and ask for the engineers that designed the product. It also helps to have an interpreter like I did.

I agree but it was pretty frustrating to have Centerforce, Tilton and Summit techs tell me that that combination would work. I finally got hold of a Centerforce tech that said he did not know of anyone that made this work without decreasing the usefull life of the Dual Friction clutch. He also recommended a McLeod TOB. I discovered a place named car shop inc. They were able to provide me with the knowledge and parts I needed to complete the project. Machining was one of our thoughts (my friend is an old school tool and dye maker) but the new Tilton bearing retainer was made of aluminum instead of steel and only 1/2 inch thick. He also recommended to ♥♥♥♥ can the aluminum extended dowels and make them from steel.

I have a 260Z with a late model small block 435HP Edelbrock clone motor and a Richmond Super T10 4 speed and old Z28 bellhousing. I replaced my Novak Jeep hydraulic clutch fork conversion kit with a Tilton master and hydraulic throwout bearing. I also used a Centerforce dual friction clutch. I encountered several problems and came up with solutions. You must use the 15/16 inch Master with this universal TO bearing requiring the replacement of my 3/4 Master to get the full throw. The fittings on the Tilton TO bearing stick out too far to allow stabbing the transmission in the bell housing. I am not fond of pulling engines to change clutches so I ground 1/4 inch clearance in the bell housing top and bottom. The combination lacked 1/4 inch to have sufficient freeplay for the clutch to release. This was solved by ordering a $65 aluminum mid plate intended for dirt track, scribing and jig sawing the unnecessary material. This was cheaper than having a machine shop cut out a spacer. The midplate was .263 which was more than I needed for freeplay. Also, an extended pilot bearing was necessary along with longer line up pins. I was sent aluminum pins but felt these were not strong enough. I made new pins out of the smooth section of 5 inch long grade five 5/8 inch bolts. The new pins should be tapered at each end for easier fitting. A caliper is necessary to get the correct diameter pins to match the factory block holes. These do more than help you line up the bellhousing bolts and need to be a tight fit. The last problem was the JTR transmission mount whose center transmission bolt hole had to be redrilled .263 further back. I had enough freeplay in the driveshaft so no change was necessary. The final problem was that the Earl's lines contacted the clutch is they wer allowed to be in the natural position This was solved by a bracket using the side plate of the transmission along with an insulated cable clamp that pulled the hydraulic lines against the back of the bellhousing. A spring was used to keep tension as the lines passed under the tranny and followed the speedometer.

I ran the blower scoop for awhile for looks and clearance with the old Scarab style conversion and a high rise intake and it did get a bunch. The air cleaner was too small even after I replaced it with a K&N. It was robbing me of horsepower on the road course. Also it looked funny after the JTR Conversion which offsets the engine to the passenger side.

I also have the air gap with a JTR conversion. The engine is a clone of an Edelbrock 435HP crate motor except the heads which are Brodix IK200 for better 3000-6500 RPM flow. The 3 inch drop Edelbrock Air Cleaner barely clears the hood. I replaced the filter will a K&N because the first time I washed under the hood the stock paper filter stopped up. My feeling is the Air Gap should be used on a built engine running higher RPM. I was using a Performer manifold on a 330HP crate motor and it had great 0 to 5000 RPM response. If you are using a passenger side alternator and long water pump, you should need to modify the alternator bracket to relieve stress off the manifold. I do have a functional Shelby GT350 Hood Scoop that is available from Unlimited Products at a very reasonable price and looks good on the Z. It also does not interfere with the home grown 50's style functional louvers. http://hallettracing.net/gallery/album32/71_240_Z

1) The lower 5/16 was the fuel line on my 74 Z before I added a new pickup at the rear of the tank by the baffle when the tank was cleaned. The other line would pick up if you had a pretty full tank. I wish that I had bought a fuel cell because when I recently changed the tank filter before the fuel pump, it was full of rust and corrosion again. That would have allowed me to run duals instead of a single 3 inch which is very loud. 2) I recently put the new gerator style Edelbrock using the stock fuel pump bracket cut out to allow clearance of the input and output lines. Looks like a factory installation now and no fuel delivery problems as I had with the Holley.

Thanks, I should be home all week getting ready for "High Speed Touring" at Hallett Raceway in Oklahoma September 16th and 17th. The Z Car Club of Texas wants me to run with them on Sunday. Not sure if my brakes and tires will last until Sunday. I am planning on running with the Little Rock Racing Scene crew on Saturday. Should be a blast.

I used semi gloss black epoxy primer and a detail gun.

I am not very impressed with GM "OEM." Their stuff is outsourced or built out of the country like everyone else. I really like the Perma-Cool fan. It flows 2950cfm and costs a little over $100 depending on the diameter. Just watch your fingers for the metal blades.

I put an automatic fan switch on mine because of forgetting to turn on the fans. Haydon makes a simple one with a sensor that can be attached to the top of the radiator or inside the top hose. Use that in conjunction with a relay and a fused hot wire running off the battery or alternator direct. I think my fuel starvation problem was mechanical since it is now straightened out with the new Edelbrock fuel pump. I will add a return line to my list for this winter. I can use the old Datsun fuel line that I did not remove. Also, insulating the fuel is a good idea since they actually contact the stainless steel sheathed heater hose lines.

The Arkansas Z Car Club site has been dead lately. Just saw your post. You need to call me on my cell phone I listed in that site. I can save you a lot of headaches and money that I wasted trying to get where I am now. If you go cheap, you will pay twice as much in the long run. JTR can be followed to a point but they are oriented to mild street conversions not racers. i.e. an Arizona Z car $800 Welwood brake conversion is not much more than a Motorsports Toyota 4 piston after you buy new rotors and there is a world of difference in braking on a road course. JTR's Sanderson headers fit perfectly and look great but be sure and get the 1 5/8". Nothing beats a solid differential mount, especially not a cabled up stocker. Also, I have a 600 CFM Edelbrock Performer that I replace with an 800 in almost new condition as well as a bunch of other assorted pull offs including slotted mags, stock rotors, master cylinders etc.

My motor started running rough since your first post during this hot spell I had put a 4-7 PSI electronic pump from Advance to replace a defective Holley Blue and the pressure was dropping from 5PSI to to 2.5 at part throttle. I bought a new Edelbrock gerator design (Essex) 6.5 PSI 120 gph and everything is running normal again. Pressure does not deviate regardless of throttle openning even with a deadhead system. I have the original 5/16" fuel line still in place that I could use as a return but am just too lazy. The Edelbrock is considerably quieter than the Holley and does not require a regulator, but its cost is $150. Let me know how you are doing.

I put in the Richmond Super T10 in the JTR conversion which jams the bellhousing 4 inches closer to the firewall. The only problem was locating the correct bellhousing that would match the requirements for the Novak hydraulic clutch conversion. Also, I had to cut out the tunnel to make room for the Hurst Super Shifter and the clutch arm. I did not go the hydraulic throwout bearing route because it is not adjustable and if it goes, you have fluid all over the clutch. I would go that route now because of all the fabrication work involved.

Not to jack this thread, I agree you do not get the scavenging effect as much as full length headers but I have yet to find a header still made that will fit the JTR conversion. I agree the rest of the system is important. My Sanderson 1 5/8" headers flow smoothly into my mandrel bent connecting pipes to collectors to 2 1/2 inch side exhausts for racing. Block off plates silence them for the street so my ears don't get worse. I also have two 2 more pipes coming off those pipes into a Y connector/collector past the 4 speed Super T10 into a 3 inch single mandrel bent exhaust tubing with a reasonably quiet turbo muffler for the street. All three exits are used for racing and autocross.

True, but they suck for power and weight. My old flow tech headers were wrapped and that helped, but it is hard on headers. I did not wrap my new Sanderson ceramic headers and the temperature under the hood (and on my feet) is obviously hotter. Part of the heat was due to the increase from 330 horsepower with a 100 shot of N2O (engine blown at the strip) to about 450 horsepower without the bottle now.

Add a clear fuel filter and you can actually see the air bubbles causing your problem. 1) Make sure the fuel tank is properly vented. I trashed the factory unit. 2) Rubber mount an electric fuel pump to the outside of the spare tire housing next to the fuel tank. I had a new 1/2 pickup line installed by a radiator shop at the rear of the tank for racing but it does interfere with the fuel guage sending unit. Depending on the carb, a regulator may be needed even for 7PSI. 5 PSI is fine for most street applications. Remember fuel volume is what is needed when you are running flat out. 3) The stock Z is about a 5/16 line. Replace with either 3/8 to 1/2 inch line running over the mustache bar and rear down the top center of the tunnel above the transmission and exiting to the passenger side of the hood latch. Add a filter and pressure guage on a braided line between the hood latch. Be sure to keep it away from the heater hose lines. 4) Use a 195 degree thermostat. Sounds stupid but my calls to Perma Cool indicated that a 195 thermostat will maintain a more consistent temperature better than a 180. 5) Cooling problems completely disappeared when I changed from the Scarab style to the JTR kit. I am using a Griffin alumininum radiator with a single puller fan and homemade fan shroud. I added a new water wetter product that to replace antifreeze that drops the temp 15-20 degrees. 6) I also have old school functional louvers on the hood and inspection panels

I see you are from Arlington. I run my car at Hallett, OK with the Little Rock Racing Scene and the Z club of Texas and am going there in September. The old sidepipes could be heard all the way around the track from the backside grandstand.

I wish I had joined sooner to get ideas but looks like I may be in good shape. I have 2.5 inch side pipes on a 425+ horsepower 350 Chevy that was ruining my hearing and having police follow me. The shop has spliced the exhaust pipes with two 2.5 inch pipes going into a 3 inch collector behind the Super T10 to a Magnaflow 3 inch muffler and added collectors in front of each side pipe with plates that can be removed for racing. With the new addition, the exhaust tone is smoother and more pleasing to the ear with the side pipes functional. Go figure. From what you are saying, the single 3 inch will add stealth to street use. I argued about the lack of baffles and they assured me it would be quiet. Update 9-25-06. Dropped the Magnaflow and switched to a single 3 inch Turbo. Blocking the sidepipes and with just the three inch, resonance increased significantly inside the car. Part of this is due to stripping out all of the sound proofing for weight. The Turbo is much quieter but I will still need to either add a resonator or resinsulate the trunk area. Also, unfortunately, it sounds more like a fart pipe car now. The upside is that it makes for a real sleeper on the street for unwary Camaros, Vettes and Mustangs. With all three exhausts opened, it was the best sounding car at the High Speed Touring event at Hallett Raceway in OK.