Bowtiez

I have dumped the Supercharger idea for now. I found a 700CFM Holley Double Pumper which just so happened to be sitting on Blue Oval Z's unwanted Manta kit car Chevy drive train so I bought the whole thing for a future project. Throttle response is better the 650 dirt track I borrowed. No flat spots and it idles smoothly at 950 CFM with an Edelbrock 2204 roller cam. No more switching back and forth to an Edelbrock for a street carb!

Oop! I did not see your "End" but I have now.

I was unhappy with both the Holley Street Avenger 670 (defective and sent back) and the 770 replacement. Could never get the off idle hesitation out of either. I have access to a 750 Holley with vacuum secondaries that I will try out.

Carb sizing question followup. The more I research the issue, look at Holley's sizing chart and get opinions, the more I am confused. I have a clone of the Edelbrock 435HP crate motor with exceptions of Brodix IK200 Heads and 10.5 compression. I have been running a borrowed dirt track racing "650" Holley DP that did fine on road courses and autocrosses. Out of the corner throttle response was great. It had to be returned yesterday. My Edelbrock 600 and 800 are fine for street driving but have vacuum secondaries. The drag racers say to step up to a 750 Holley DP but I am concerned that I would loose throttle response which is not an issue with them. I checked out the new cheaper Summit 750 but there are too many proprietary parts and few tuning options for that carb and I may be adding a roots type supercharger this summer.

I thought about the LS1 but I am too old school to mess with electronics and that engine barely fits into the 260Z. You may as well go to an LS6. I love being able to change plugs on my roller cam carbed 350 with just a ratchet and a spark plug socket and pull the engine/transmission in a couple of hours by myself. Try that with a LS1.

Lots of Luck! I started with a used rusted but running $500 homemade Scarab style conversion and am now pushing $30K. You need to read the JTR book cover to cover before you start this project. For instance, you must get an electric fuel pump with the JTR Kit ($50 to $200). I paid $275 for custom balanced drive shaft with 1310's at each end. Your r180 won't take a lot of abuse and its getting harder to find good R200's in a junk yard. Its the little stuff like hoses and hardware that will eat your budget alive.

OK, I called MSA and they would not tell me they would fit the JTR conversion. They probably know but.......... I guess I will stay with the Sandersons. I don't think it will make any difference when I drop a Edelbrock supercharger on the engine anyway. I have got blockable two side pipes with 2 1/2 inch mufflers and a Y'd 3 inch to a turbo for everyday use. Sounds wicked with everything open.

My old Scarab position was more tolerant for different headers. The oil pan/crossmember is as low as 2 inches from the ground depending on tires and suspension setup. Will this header clear the steering shaft and frame with the engine in the offset/set back position/lowered position of the JTR conversion? How about ground clearance for the collectors? Is this the same header as the Motorsports folks sell with their kit?

No kidding! Air chisels come in real handy for that job.

You said it has not been run in a year. If you used the gas in the tank, it is probably rotten by now. Varnish in the carb will give you all kinds of problems. Change your filters and go through the carb, drain the tank, pump fresh gas through the lines.

Dumb question: Is your differential cover rectangular or rounded? Make sure you really have an R180. There are other differentials that could have been made to work. Putting a 280Z R200 and its mustache bar should be a bolt in job unless someone has messed with your 73.

BTW: I have the JTR heavy duty driveshaft coupler laying around somewhere.

The JTR conversion book is primarily for folks looking to do an engine swap on an enjoyable daily driver at a very reasonable price. Their products are excellent. Don't bother trying to fabricate. They give you ways to save money initially by modifying stock parts. Don't ignore having an overdrive automatic or five speed as I did or you will have a gas guzzler. The book is a great place to start, but, if you are going racing, move on up to the good stuff at Arizona Z Car or Techno Toy Tuning and don't buy parts twice as I did. The last edition I bought did not mention the newer products such as five lug conversions or Q45/TT CV Joint conversions. I recommend the Sanderson coated headers but wish I could find some equal length that would fit.

Ancient Problem. I had this problem in 1972 with my then new 240Z. It occurred when I had only the driver's side window down and the vents open. That seemed to suck the fumes in. With both windows up or the passenger side window down, there was no problem. The dealer said that was normal????

Right I am running a built 10.5 comp roller cam Chevy 350 with Brodix IK200 Heads in my 260Z. According to Magnuson, the 5 PSI boost will be fine using 93 pump gas without going the intercooler route and should bump the horsepower and torgue well into the 500+ range or even more with 8PSI and race gas. (Already have the TT R230 conversion, no worries there). From dimensions and pictures, it looks as if the carb and front of the blower will be completely out of what will be left of the hood and a scoop may even cause vision problems. Has anyone installed this unit or a similar roots unit with a carb not EFI? If so, how do they perform on a road course?

With the R230 conversion, I feel that is as strong as it gets without backhalfing so more power is in order this winter. Edelbrock has come out with a new carb Supercharger kit. I really want to stay old school with minimal electronic crap. BTW: Between the built in camber adjustment on the Techno Toy Strut and changing the ride height with the coil over springs, you can get a lot of negative camber for road racing or positive camber for anticipating squat for drag racing.

I just got back from the Midwest Z Fest in Tulsa, OK. The Techno Toy R230 conversion held up fine. The Hallett,OK track is a technical 1.9 mile road course with elevation changes and twists and turns. I took it easy the first lap at 1:54 and was able to get down to a personal best of 1:39 while dicing with an Ariel Atom. The scheduled drag race at Tulsa was delayed until 1AM by rain and I was too tired to go. I did burn the M/T's in the parking lot just to break them in. http://s273.photobucket.com/albums/jj232/Bowtie350V8/MidwestZFest%202008/?action=view&current=MidwestZFest2008003.jpg

When I was ordering calipers, the TT and non turbo were the same. The TT came with sixteens. With my 17 inch Cobra R wheels, there is only 1 and 1/4 inch between the wheel and tallest point of the stock caliper mounted on Techno Toy's strut. I doubt if 15's will clear although there are some wheel manufactures that take disc brake clearance into consideration such as Mickey Thompson. Consult the wheel manufacturer before you buy or try a buddies. I realize that a 15 is better for drag racing and there are more selection of tire sizes. However, a 15 X 10 will require some serious fender cutting or rear end raising with a 26 to 28 inch tire and anything over a 245:50 tire assuming 5 inch backspacing. I ended up with a 9.5 X 17 with a 275:40 M/T drag radial and raised my ZG Flares and fender cuts two inches to keep a low ride height.

Check with with Gabriel Tyler at Techno Toy. I don't have a decent micrometer to measure that exactly. I did measure with an old tool and came up with 2 inches.

Update on Parking Brake Conversion for the R230 TT differential: I removed the junction yoke from the original 90 model adjustment cable. I then drilled a 1/4 hole through its pivot joint. A 4 inch piece of 1/4 X 20 all thread with a nut was inserted through the pivot joint and into the 260Z original attachment/adjustment bracket and into another nut. I used the original 260Z chassis parking brake cable springs to hold the super long 90 model cables in place. All it takes is a 7/16 socket and flex handle to adjust the tension after you insert the cables into the slots provided by the 90 model yoke.

I can't seem to fine a thread on this great product, so......I just finished converting my Arizona Z Car 4 lug Wilwood brake conversion to 5 lug. Dave sent me a new rotor center bolted to a one piece aluminum 5 bolt hub. It adds 1/2 inch offset to the hub wheel surface which is fine for running 5 X 4 1/2 wheels with positive offset such as the 350Z (30 and 33) and Mustang (15 to 29). You will need to change the thrust washer to a Dorman 618-010 in order to allow the screw in grease cap to properly seat. The assembly needs to be dry checked for runout also. .003 to .004 is OK.

I bought the 4 piston set up years ago and kept going deeper and deeper into the corners at Hallett, Ok. You must check the runout of the combination of the rotor, hub and center section. Mine was out .012 and .016 causing pulsating brakes. If you look at Dave's instructions, he makes that perfectly clear. One of these days, I might just do that. I just changed from a 4 lug wheel to 5 lug using his beautiful one piece hub and center section for my Wilwood front conversion. The resulting additional added 1/2 inch offset allowed me to run 16 X 8 Cobra R wheels with a +.015 offset and a 245:45:16 Yoko A032R without a spacer. My only complaint is that he did not send me two Dorman 618-010 99 cent washers so that his spin on grease cap would work.

I will let you know. I have a Track session at Hallett Raceway and a Drag Race in Tulsa, OK labor day weekend. The R230 is supposed to be good to 600 horsepower. I am shy of that by 200. The early model Q45 R200 has the same axles and six bolt out put star but an inch smaller ring and opinion.

You said Z not ZX, correct? I have an early 260Z with the ground control coilovers. 70-78 should be the same. The only adjustments needed were spring height and camber (which is on the new strut). Call Gabe if you are concerned.

Even in the Scarab position, I did not have this degree of problems with the stock suspension. If anything, the car should be understeering not oversteering. You have got something loose, bent or broke in the rear suspension. Check the front differential mount. They tend to split with age and a V8. Surely someone has not welded up the differential.