Bowtiez

My wife has a 2003 350Z Touring Model with heated leather seats. There is no lumbar support due to the air bag placement. My 260Z seats are more comfortable.

I bought my car with the V8 in the Scarab position with overheating problems even after I added a huge aluminum radiator, hood louvers and two pusher fans. A switch to the JTR conversion lowered the motor allowing for a full size 14 inch air cleaner and improved the cooling by allowing the airflow to go around the motor. I was able to install a single puller fan and radiator shroud. JTR also offsets the motor 3/4 inch making room for shift linkage and better drive shaft alignment. One important note: Run a 195 degree thermostat. I talked to the Permacool fan techs about my setup and they recommended a 195 degree thermostat. The 165 degree thermostat actually made the car run hotter! I don't understand but it had something to do with the fluid going through the Griffin radiator too fast to be cooled. Moving the battery to the right rear helps with weight distribution and is not that difficult or expensive. Weight distribution was improved.

JTR gives you some inexpensive solutions to common problems that existed a few years ago until new products came on the market such as Wilwood Brake Conversions and inexpensive wide aluminum wheels. As far as the differential mount is concerned, get a solid aluminum mount or take the mount and weld it up solid. The vibration JTR talks about is really not all that bad and the monkey motion is gone. I am surprised someone has not brought out a polyurethane mount.

I have been through the whole route. I started with a 260Z 350 V8 350TH Automatic. For drag racing, you cannot beat the simplicity and ease on the drive train of an auto. For track days, forget it due to down shifting problems. For street use, gas mileage is awful with the common 3:54 Diff and the 350TH. I changed the 260Z R180 to a 78 280Z R200 and then added a Phantom Grip LSD. I changed to a Richmond Super T10 4 speed and promptly broke a half shaft u joint at the drags just using road race tires. I now have gone with the Techno Toy R230 Conversion and a VLSD TT diff. Unless you can weld and cut, you would be well to stick with a short nose R200 conversion which will easily handle 400 HP. All of this costs money and is not simple. I suggest you find a long nose R200 complete with axles and be sure and get the mustache bar, forget the LSD unless you like oversteering and doughnuts, and make sure the half shafts have non lubricating ujoints of the best quality. The stock 260Z suspension with a 350 with a 2400 stall converter does some amazing launches with a mild Chevy and street tires. (11:06 in the 1000 Feet) Summit sells some new generation 400's that do not require a computer and have an overdrive. Also, be sure and get the JTR diff coupler for a 1310 Chevy driveshaft u joint.

$2544 if you include the used TT R230 not show. Backing Plates $550 Moustache bar $250 Front Diff Mount $150 Axles $480 Struts prepped for coilovers $240 Coilovers for rear strut casings $199 Shocks for rear strut casings $240 Nissan TT/Chevy 1310 Yoke - $85 Used Hubs, Axles, R230 Diff, backing plates less brakes - $300 Moser Installed Axles (FREE-Shipping to Cal $50.)

added a bunch of pictures with no labels but I am sure you can tell what is going on. BTW: I also posted a possible candidate for another SBC conversion. I am not sure the motor is not bigger than the car. http://s273.photobucket.com/albums/jj232/Bowtie350V8/

I want to make something very clear about this R230 conversion. If I had gone with their Q45 standard set up, it would have been almost a straight bolt in installation and almost as strong. Gabe and Rick spent lots of time on the phone with me to complete this conversion. The quality of their product and support is amazing and they install the 1.2 inch Moser axles for you for free. If you cannot weld or fabricate, their Q45 conversion is the best choice. I just happened to find a 90 TT R230 rear end and just had to see if it could be done and it can. My skill level is about like a red neck dirt tracker. I will add more pictures to photobucket soon. BTW: their set up has camber adjustment built in the strut support without the need for an expensive and hard to install camber plate.

Update: Except for attaching the parking brake cables, Gabe's R230 conversion is finally finished. I am going to purge the new fuel system and burn some rubber tomorrow with some old 350Z rims with Bridgestone Tires. I ended up using Gabe's 1 inch 5 lug adapter to a pair of 9.5 X 17 Gram Light wheels and 275:40 M/T Drag Radials. Check photobucket later: http://s273.photobucket.com/albums/jj232/Bowtie350V8/

I was in your position. I checked with Factory Five about their Cobra IRS. Also discussed this with Currie. Bottom line, is that either would require a backhalf job and people around here have no experience with Datsuns. My Techno Toy R230 swap lacks figuring out how to connect the 1990 TT parking brake and installing the new fuel cell. I used the original 260Z drum brake drum line bent to clear the CV joint and connect to the stock brake line bracket drilled out and bolted to the Techno Toy top strut bolt. A stainless steel flex line runs to that from the stock 260Z location. The big rear sway bar fits better than with the old long nosed R200. Surprisingly, one big challenge has been to find non custom wheels with RWD backspacing with 4.5 to 5 inches of backspacing in a 5 X 4.5 pattern. M/T, Cragar and American make a few basically for truck use. I ended up with a 9.5 X 17 Nissan Gram Lite wheel with 22 MM offset or about 6 inches of backspacing and a Techno Toy 1.25 bolt on bolt wheel spacer to center and allow use of 275:40:17 M/T Drag Radials. A little fend mod under the ZG flares will still be necessary to clear. I will try to post picture in photobucket when I have a chance. http://photobucket.com/images/Bye%20Bye%20Z06/

I was looking for Blue Oval Z's reply. I know he hit 140 running a Ferrari with a 289 SBF before backing off but now he has a stroker 383 Ford!

I thought seriously about a BBC but I knew I would have to have a very expensive aluminum block to balance the car for road courses and autocross use so I went with a built roller cam 350 SBC with Brodix heads and still broke half shaft u joints at the strip. Now, I have gone to a Techno Toy R230 coil over set up that will supposedly handle 600+ horsepower. Will know soon. Nitrous and a missed shift took care of the last motor. If I blow this motor, World Products makes a small block 427 that looks very interesting or maybe a supercharger on a 383.

Gabriel and Rick have been working closely with me on the conversion. The unit is loosely installed now. Encountered several clearance problems due to the size of the R230. I cut a 1 X 9 inch section of the frame member in front of the spare tire well. Boxed and welded that section using a 8.5 x 2.5 x 1.5 piece of 14 guage tubing between the reinforcing brackets for the TL hangers plus a couple of three inch pieces of 1 inch angle iron to finish the corners. Gabe sent me a new mustache bar with the holes drilled 3/4 inch up from the normal Q45 set up. This combination gave me clearance on the driver side for the 6 star output shaft. I still ended up cutting a 2 x 1/2 inch out of the passenger side TL contact point and reinforcing with a small plate. The rear TL hanger crossover bar will not clear the fins of the R230. The interference strip was cut out. I used two 3inch pieces of 1 x 1 tubing welded to each corner of the original crossover and then a 17.5 inch piece of 1 inch angle across welded. I bolted throught the angle and the tubing through the hangers. That is tough tough material. I am working on connecting the parking brakes and disc brakes tomorrow. The 90TT parking brake adjustment bolt will screw into the 74 adjustment bracket. Go figure. I will try to get pictures and details posted mid May. I am trying to get ready for a grudge match with a bad assed twin turbo at Ozark Intl in Missouri.

Yes, I am also waiting for an R230 front differential mount to be cut. I found a R230 drive shaft coupler to adapt to a 1310 Ujointed drive shaft. I decided not to use the weaker 2000 Q45 R200 29 Spline even after Gabe sent me S14 bolt in hubs to make his conversion work. Only the 90-96 Q45s should be used and they are not R230s as some people claim, they are shortnosed R200s. They look similar but the R230 will give you a hernia. Right now, I am installing a fuel cell and taking pictures as I go.

I started with a $500 rusted out hulk of a homemade 350V8 conversion in 1999. Big mistake. BTW: I bought a "350Z" personalized plate a year later. I have over $25K in the car now and still not finished. If I had to do it all over again, I would have borrowed $10K and bought the best V8 Z I could find and then went to work on it. Sometimes it pays off like when you go to a Porsche club dyno day and a guy with a $100K car says "I bet you grin ever time you stomp on the gas". Yup.

I ordered the same aluminum tank and it should be in Monday. I thought about the steel but it is routed to the right rear corner for circle track. I am of the same opinion and will have a hinged and rubber gasketed metal cover over what used to be the spare tire well for safety. I checked the price on the ATL and Fuel Safe products and it would cost three times as much without a fuel sending unit! My main objective is replacing a 34 year old tank that is badly corroding and rusting after it had been to a shop for cleaning and pickup relocation. My fuel filter was full of crap. I would rather mount the sump forward and avoid the exposure of a rear end collision or off course excursion breaking extra lengths of unprotected lines. I hate messing with braided steel lines and aluminum fittings and will probably use a -8 AN /hard tube 3/8" brake line with a short piece of hose of between the fuel pump in the stock location and the tank. I may add a return line but I don't think its really needed with the Edelbrock gerator fuel pump (Holley, yes).

Had a little accident moving the R230 with a dolly. One of the corners of collar around the split of the coupler was dented in 1/4 inch. I was told to grind off that corner dent instead of trying to bend it because bending it back might fracture the collar. What do you think?

After looking at your information and talking to Gabe, I scrapped the idea of using a 2000 Q45 R200 in favor of the bigger R230 from a 90 TT with 80K miles. This has a 9 inch + ring and pinion and 30 Spline axles. The axle nuts, however, are identical to the r200. You don't want to try to lift this diff by yourself! You ought to see the 1302-42 coupler that replaces the Mickey Mouse factory setup. It is a Viscous Limited Slip (tag on diff). I am not sure how well this VLSD will hold up to drags. I The 2000 Q45 pressed in hubs will not work with Techno Toy's conversion which is built for a 90-96 Q45. Also, the output shafts are five bolts and 29 splines. Gabe sent last model S14 hubs to try which would have worked if I was able to find non turbo 90-96 brakes. Although my motor is only putting out 435HP at the crank, I like that extra margin of insurance and, well, I am already in there. Anyone interested in short nosed R200 in great shape. I saw an Armada yesterday on an oil rack and the size and bolt pattern looked to be an R230.

I purchased the 90 R230 TT setup less calipers and drums which I can get new Wagner parts for $250 or Brembos for quite a bit more. It only had 80K miles. Also, it looks like the 2000 Q45 rotors and calipers may work. PS: I needed a muscled up friend to help me put the R230 in the back of a 4X4 truck. It is h_e_a_v-y!

One bit of advice. JTR sells great products and has a lot of good information in their book and I used to read it like the Bible when I first got into this, but it is geared toward an economic low budget non racing Z conversion and doesn't really reflect all the new good stuff available now for S30's. For hardcore racers with bucks to spend, you can't beat Arizona Z Car and Techno Toy for goodies.

Update on the Q45 assembly: I received the S14 hubs from Techno Toy but decided to bite the bullet and not use the 2000 Model Infinity assembly. The 90-96 non turbo hub assemblies are hard to find around here. They are a 29 spline 5 star output coupler which may be too weak for my SBC. If anyone is interested in this short nosed R200 and axles, etc., let me know. I found a 80K mile 90 Model TT R230 (which Gabe calls overkill) but it was available for $300 with the hubs and axles. It is a viscous LSD. I can't believe the weight. It will give you hernia to lift by yourself. I am swapping the Q45 coupler I have for part number 3102-42 which also uses a 1310 U joint.

140 on the front straight of Hallett Raceway in OK according to the Z06 Vette driver behind me. (How in the heck did he have time to look at a speedometer with a 60 MPH corner coming up fast?) 260Z 350 Roller Cam SBC Approx 435 at the crank, 245:45:16 Yokohama A032R's 3:54 Final Drive. 4 speed Richmond Super T10. 6500 RPM.

The only time that I was delayed is for the Sanderson Headers which had to be custom made. BTW: You cannot beat the fit and finish of those ceramic headers. Huge tubes and thick flanges.

I have told a guy with a 90 model TT R230 that the popular S14 240SX/300Z brake conversion will not work due to the 29 spline axle vs 30 spline issue and that he needs a 90-96 300Z non turbo hub/brake assembly. My motive is to buy this from him but I think from what everyone is posting, I am not lying. I have a 95 Q45 complete assembly located but my 350 SBC roller cam is over 400HP and I am concerned about strength if I run the intended M/T ETs. Although I have broken u joints on the long nosed R200, I have never had differential problems including the phantom grip lsd.

The part listed is an absolutely perfect fit both for the bolts and the hub! This differential is from a 2000 model Q45 T Infiniity. I have no idea if there are differences in the earlier models or 90-96 300Z's. You may want to visit you local driveshaft specialist and take the rear end with you like I did. LOL.

I have had custom driveshafts built locally since balancing and measurement is critical to allow for 3/4 inch movement. The yoke is dependent on the transmission but you can readily get matching 1310 Chevy non lubricated joints. Originally I had the JTR hd differential coupler but now that I am moving to the short nose Q45, I am using a new coupler as previously noted but staying with 1310 joint. The new coupler is significantly larger and stronger and uses 12mm instead of 8 mm bolts.