RUSSJZ-ZED
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Posts posted by RUSSJZ-ZED
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Cured problem with gear stick in 1st, 3rd, and 5th being too far away and too close to dash/heater controls, I did not want to have to put heat on this to bend it due to rubber insulated upper half of stick.
Solution,(this works with late model boxes,don't know about Mk3 Supra type)
I removed stick, rotated 180 degrees,re-installed, no problems, nothing in there that makes it a 1 way set-up. Angle now puts 1st near 90 degrees, 2nd at about 10 o'clock, -real nice position , good positions foe easy changes.
Pic's on about page 6 on link below.(there is also pic' of some bushes on the remote that are much easier to replace when the box is out of the car. I found out one bush had had collapsed, destroying ease of shift, had to replace in the car,can be done but much easier if you plan ahead.
New ones transform shifting.
If any of this information I've been posting is of use to you, feel free to say thanks for pointers, I don't embarress easy.I do get the sh1ts when ideas I've tried out that worked, get claimed as original ideas by others elsewhere. -a few of my great ideas didn't work ,(If you first dont succeed, remove all traces that you tried.
)If there are ways to improve,POST!,Also there is nothing worse than forums that do the "Look what I've done" posts with no information as to how things were actually done, SHARE!
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this link could be of use for anyone using the R154 with short extension housing out of a Mk3 Supra
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=477519
there is post somewhere on how to put the guts out of a shortnose LSD diff into a longnose case, saves changing front mount position (and driveshaft length if already set up)
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I have about an inch and 3/4 from the back of the block to the firewall, which is round about the extra that gets picked up by bolting on the Soarer/Chaser type extension.
You must have the engine real close.
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Just finished installing R154,(updated post) pic of where your shifter will move back to when you fit the Soarer extension housing
I have the Chaser 154 ,which is the same as Soarer, think you will definately need a LSD,( totally different to drive compared to the smooth civilised auto, diff ratio might need stepping back a bit as well)
If you have the non cable electronic speedo, wire up could cause problems, it can be done, but beyond me.
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Photo's and descriptions of R154 install added to flickr photo bank, at the moment they are on page 5, but could get moved around depending on what else gets loaded.
link.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/russjz-zed/sets/72157601989530227/detail/
Still deciding if swap to manual was good move, auto had smooth power on, turbo kicked in early, no problem keeping it on boost,Quite civilised, Manual turned it into a beast.,running a 3.33 rear end at the moment, definately need a LSD (didnt with auto) also might fit a 3.08 rear end to take fill advantage of first gear,( with anything like a 3.7 or 4.08, I think it would just jump up and down on the same spot when it was floored) once moving pick up is phenomenal:icon54: but need to keep working at it to keep the boost on.
With the auto hardly ever reved past 4000RPM now I seem to be hitting 7000 all the time on the way to the supermarket, lightened flywheel definately helping get the rev's up fast.
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For anyone in Sydney Australia, Sideshow, alias Jim the wiring genius
Works out of factory unit next to SSS Automotive Gilba Sreet Giraween. his number ,0415904947 Talk to him if you are anywhere else in Oz, he will travel.
He hooked up my electronic speedo to the R154 yesterday,I had gone crazy looking at wire for a week,
he did it in half an hour. -
If fitting a more modern engine that runs the speedo/tacho off the ECU, but still want to keep the original look, VDO cockpit series are an easy, near drop in fit that look reasonably close to originals.
Tacho's come in 8000RPM,10,000RPM, speedo's 120MPH,160MPH and 200KPH and 300KPH(I used the 8000RPM and 200KPH, as I have no great need to be in a 30 year old Datsun at 10K on the tacho, with 160MPH showing-don't have a death wish thing going)
Real easy to set up, no difficult brackets /clips etc.
Detail and pic's on the link.click on pic's for full description.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/russjz-zed/sets/72157608024374696/detail/
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Zenon front dam, polyurethane, look great,I bought one because the theory is, flexible so they don't self destruct on first contact with a kerb etc. like fibreglass does, only problem I found after fitting as per factory instructions was that they are too flexible!
At speed they wobble all over the place, (imagine a toothless drunk's face, on a motorbike at 120 mph)
Also the two bolts per side is just a touch on the light side to hold it in place,this is not a lightweight item. If the centre touches the road/speedhump etc with anymore than light contact. it will probably rip out of the attaching bolts,and also probably go under the front wheels.
The stress on the bolts when it's wobbling can't be all that beneficial as well.
Surgery required.
Using sections of the old quarters, and an alumimium plate across the centre, really puts some strength into it,no wobbles anymore.still has the flex on the lower edge to protect it when it clips things, but no longer any danger of it ripping loose.
For all the weight obsessed people(probably wouldn't use the Zenon anyway, they are a lot heavier than fibre glass-there is a lightweight carbon fibre replica of the zenon style out there,but near double the price)modification probably adds less than a pound to total weight.
Pic's description here.click on pic's for full description.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/russjz-zed/sets/72157608009062330/detail/
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I went for the vvt version for a couple of reasons,
1) it is a newer, later development of the engine series
2)It makes more power than earlier version
3) max torque 378Nm is reached at 2400rpm(4800rpm on1J non vvt,-the 2JZGTE Vvti is 451 Nm at 3600rpm-Torque =fun)
4)only one turbo to go bad.
As a street/highway cruiser with engine totally unmolested, quiet,docile,smooth runner,untill it gets to over 2000rpm, then it snarls and turns into Frankenstein,that low down torque is brilliant!-there is no need to work it,
Performance parts are harder to find but readily available from Japan,(try it unmolested before you start spending money) lots of talk about how the rods are weaker than earlier non vvt's and how they won't stand up to 1000HP, -a quick reality check will tell you a 30+ year old Datsun won't either.
Depends on what you want ,
a trouble free street car with scary perfomance,more grunt than a hippo with haemoroids,(be very carefull on a wet road, and by wet ,I mean anything more than light mist!)
or a zillion dollar track days only racer.
You seem to speak of the vvti upgrade on the 1JZ-GTE rather positively. I have heard people on other forums say that this is an engine to avoid for tuners.As a Toyota newb, I haven’t a clue but I was hoping you could touch on the subject of modifying vvti engines?
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Well done, Russ. THANKS!
Not claiming the kudos for this, engine information shamelessly lifted from local magazine site, http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_2750/article.html
(I notice someone else thought it was good as well - and loaded most of it onto wikipedia)
gearbox info from
http://www.toymods.net/forums/ -lots of good toyota petrol head transplant stuff here.
Figured it was good information that should be readily accessable here.
Autospeed also has these items of interest.
import motors.
http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_110616/article.html
7mgte.
http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_110590/article.html
injector swaps.
http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_110359/article.html
intercooler maths.
http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_109789/article.html
budget intercoolers.
http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_109459/article.html
superchargers. http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_109125/article.html
Or just hit their index and chances are what you want is in there.
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Have a look here as well, 1J is same conversion as 2J.
http://www.jzx100.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2012&hl=r154+swap
If you start with the box out of a Chaser or Soarer with the longer shifter extension it will make your life easier than with the shorter one from a Mk3 (JDM)Supra.
(The Mk4 Supra NA uses a W58 5 speed)
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after you said you painted and all, but...
The two holed thing on the firewall needs to be moved back.
That's the position of factory aircon in/out on a RHD car,it stays where it is, he needs a slightly different (in the size department) "two holed thing" for his heater in/out.
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If the gearbox has been on that engine since the factory,both will have come from a JDM Mk3 Supra,(the only other cars Toyota fitted the R154 to, Soarers and Chasers used the R154 with the longer extension housing)
Bargain price for the pair:lol: Just the box in this part of the world costs $1400-$2000+ and ECU for a manual very hard to find.
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from http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_2750/article.html
One of the most potent engine designs in recent years has come from Toyota - the JZ-series in-line six. Released as successor to the smooth and faithful M-series six, the JZ engine has a DOHC 4-valve-per-cylinder head and comes in 2.5 and 3-litre capacities. You can also find versions with variable cam timing, a single turbocharger, parallel twin turbos, sequential twin turbos and direct injection. There's plenty to discover - so let's dive into the world of Toyota JZ engines.P> There’s plenty to discover – so let’s dive into the world of Toyota JZ engines.
Early 1JZ
The JZ engine range first appeared in 1990 with the naturally aspirated 1JZ-GE and its twin-turbo 1JZ-GTE cousin.
The 2.5-litre 1JZ uses oversquare bore dimensions (86 x 71.5mm) and, in naturally aspirated guise, a 10:1 compression ratio. With the aid of a DOHC, 24-valve head and a dual-stage intake manifold, the atmo 1JZ-GE produces 132kW at 6000 rpm and 235Nm at 4800 rpm. Not bad for a conventional 2.5-litre.
The atmo 1JZ-GE was fitted to the 1990 Japanese-spec Chaser, Cresta, Crown and Mark II. Like all JZ-series engines, the early 1JZ-GE is designed for longitudinal mounting and rear-wheel-drive. All of these models also came with a 4-speed automatic transmission as standard – there was no manual gearbox option.
Toyota also released a more desirable twin-turbo variant of the 1JZ during 1990.
The 1JZ-GTE twin-turbo was introduced to the Japanese market Supra GT (JZA70 series), Chaser, Cresta, and Mark II. The 1JZ-GTE employs twin CT12A turbochargers arranged in parallel and blowing through a front-mount air-to-air intercooler. With an 8.5:1 static compression ratio, the factory quoted output is 206kW at 6200 rpm and there’s 363Nm at 4800 rpm. These early 1JZ-GTEs are most commonly available with an auto transmission but a 5-speed manual version was available in the Supra GT.
In the following year (1991), the 1JZ-GTE was slotted into the all-new Soarer GT. Output remains at 206kW/363Nm and, again, most examples come tied to an auto trans. These 1JZ-GTE powered Soarers are quite common on the Australian market (as ‘grey’ imports).
The early generation 1JZ-GTEs are a great engine from a bang for buck point of view but be aware that the ceramic wheeled turbochargers are prone to failure. And they’re costly to fix.
Early 2JZ
The big capacity JZ engine – the 3-litre 2JZ – was introduced to the Japanese market in 1991. The naturally aspirated version was first seen in the Crown Royal, Crown Majesta and Aristo saloons while the twin-turbo variant appeared in the top-of-the-range Aristo.
With its square bore dimensions (86 x 86mm), the naturally aspirated 1991 2JZ-GE uses a 10:1 compression ratio and a dual-stage manifold to produce 169kW at 6000 rpm and 284Nm at 4800 rpm. It mightn’t have forced induction but this is a very strong engine for its capacity.
Curiously, the 2JZ-GE was spread into the Chaser, Cresta and Mark II range during 1992 but the quoted outputs are down 7kW and 4Nm – we can only assume there are differences in the exhaust, air intake and perhaps ECU tune. These early atmo 2JZs are typically fitted with an auto transmission.
The last car to receive the 2JZ-GE was the Toyota Soarer coupe of 1994. In Soarer spec, the 2JZ generates a full 169kW/284Nm (the same as the Crown range and Aristo).
And, despite popular opinion, the awesome twin-turbo version of the 2JZ was not first released in the Supra.
The first application of the twin-turbo 2JZ-GTE was in the nose of the top-line 1991 Aristo. And, as you’ve probably heard, this is an absolute humdinger of an engine. With a static compression ratio of 8.5:1 and a sophisticated sequential twin-turbo arrangement (using a pair of CT12B turbochargers), you’re looking at a conservatively claimed 206kW at 5600 rpm. Peak torque is a huge 432Nm at 3600 rpm with 380Nm from just 1300 rpm... In Aristo spec, the 2JZ-GTE comes fitted with a 4-speed automatic trans.
When the same engine was later installed to the JZA80-series Supra (from 1993), buyers had the option of a 6-speed manual. Engine output is identical in the Aristo and Supra.
VVT-i Update
Through the mid-to-late ‘90s, the JZ-series engine was treated to variable inlet cam timing (which Toyota calls VVT-i).
From 1996, the entry-level 2.5-litre 1JZ-GE received VVT-i as well as a compression ratio increase of 0.5:1. These changes helped achieve a very creditable 147kW and 255Nm (up 15kW and 20Nm from earlier models). These VVT-i 1JZ-GEs come fitted to the 1996 Chaser, Cresta, Crown and Mark II; they’re all autos.
Interestingly, the turbocharged 1JZ came in for a lot more than just VVT-i and a small compression ratio increase.
For the 1996 model year, the 1JZ-GTE lost its parallel twin-turbo system in favour of a large capacity single turbocharger. With a big CT20 turbocharger blowing through an air-to-air intercooler, the VVT-i 1JZ-GTE produces 206kW (as before) but with a massively improved 378Nm at 2400 rpm. It’s easy to dismiss the switch from twin turbos to a single turbo as a downgrade but back-to-back road tests show this to be a far better engine than previously.
The 1JZ VVT-i single turbo came fitted to the updated Soarer, Chaser, Cresta and Mark II of ’96. The same engine was then applied to the 1999 Crown and Crown Estate, 2001 Verossa and 2002 Mark II Wagon Blit. Most examples are fitted with an automatic transmission but there are manual versions to be found. These engines are quite scarce at the import wreckers but they’re an excellent package.
The big-banger 2JZ 3-litre also benefited from the introduction of VVT-i.
In 1995, the Crown and Crown Majesta received variable inlet cam timing and, like the atmo 1JZ, a slightly higher compression ratio (up to 10.5:1). This went toward achieving 162kW at 5600 rpm and 294Nm at 4000 rpm. The same engine was then introduced to the Chaser, Cresta and Mark II in 1996 and, in 1997, a higher tuned version (producing 169kW at 6000 rpm) made its way into the updated Soarer 3.0GT.
Nineteen ninety-seven also saw the release of the all-new Aristo (which is recognised in Australia as the Lexus GS300). The new Aristo boasts the same 169kW output as the updated 2JZ Soarer and comes with tubular headers and electronic throttle control. Don’t underrate it – this is a very potent engine considering the absence of forced induction.
Also making news in ’97 was the VVT-i upgrade of the already stunning 2JZ-GTE sequential twin-turbo. With the introduction of variable inlet cam timing and electronic throttle control, the 2JZ-GTE’s power output remained at a conservatively quoted 206kW but torque increased to 451Nm at 3600 rpm – almost 100Nm more than the ‘awesome’ Nissan R32 Skyline GT-R... This benchmark engine was available in the ’97 Aristo and ’98 Supra. It was discontinued in around 2001.
Of course, this engine is always in huge demand in performance circles and you’ll typically pay top dollar for one.
There were small ongoing changes to the VVT-i 2JZ for the next couple of years and, most importantly, Toyota released a 158kW/294Nm version in the Progres sedan and a 162kW/294Nm version in the Altezza wagon.
Direct Injection FSEs
In around 2000, Toyota introduced what are probably the least recognised members of the JZ engine family – the FSE direct injection variants. These FSE 1JZ and 2JZ engines are aimed at achieving minimal emissions and fuel consumption together with no loss of performance.
The 2.5-litre 1JZ-FSE employs the same block as the conventional 1JZ-GE – everything up top, however, is unique. The ‘D4’ FSE employs a relatively narrow angle cylinder head with swirl control valves that serve to improve combustion efficiency. This is necessary to run at extremely lean air-fuel ratios - around 20 to 40:1 at certain engine load and revs. Not surprisingly, fuel consumption is reduced by around 20 percent (when tested in the Japanese 10/15 urban mode). Interestingly, normal unleaded fuel is enough to cope with the FSE’s 11:1 compression ratio.
The direct injection version of the 1JZ generates 147kW and 250Nm – virtually the same as the conventional VVT-i 1JZ-GE. This highly efficient engine is fitted to the 2000 Mark II, 2001 Brevis, Progres, Verossa, Crown and Crown Estate. All are fitted with an automatic transmission.
The 3-litre 2JZ-FSE uses the same direct injection principle as the smaller 1JZ version but runs an even higher 11.3:1 compression ratio. This engine matches the conventional VVT-i 2JZ-GE with 162kW and 294Nm. The 2JZ-FSE is fitted to certain 1999 Crown models and the 2001 Brevis and Progres. Again, all use automatic transmissions.
These FSE engines are certainly very interesting from a technical perspective but, at the time of writing, we have not seen one imported to Australia. On the other hand, the turbocharged 1JZ and 2JZs can be found in generous numbers – it’s never been cheaper and easier to buy an engine that’ll run with the giants of the performance world.
Gearbox comparisons.
W58
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First Gear: 3.285:1
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Second Gear: 1.894:1
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Third Gear: 1.275:1
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Fourth Gear: 1.00:1
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Fifth Gear: 0.783:1
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Reverse: -3.768:1
- oil capacity 2.6 litres
- R154
This is a robust 5-speed transmission found in the MKIII Supra Turbo, Toyota Soarer (turbo) up to 2001.
Toyota chaser JZX90, JZX100, JZX110
Ratios:
First Gear: 3.250:1
Second Gear: 1.955:1
Third Gear: 1.310:1
Fourth Gear: 1.00:1
Fifth Gear: 0.753:1
Gearbox Lubricant Capacity - 3 Litres
Oil specifications 80W-90 GL4 or 5 Gear Oil
Soarer tt final drive 4.083 to 1
Mk3 supra(r154) final drive 3.7 to 1
V160
Ratios:
First Gear: 3.830:1
Second Gear: 2.360:1
Third Gear: 1.680:1
Fourth Gear: 1.310:1
Fifth Gear: 1:1
Sixth Gear: 0.790:1
Applications: Mk 4 Supra TT
Oil capacity,1.8 litres
final drive 3.266 to 1(Japan market)
1993-May 1996 Supra turbo
V161
Ratios:
First Gear: 3.724:1
Second Gear: 2.246:1
Third Gear: 1.541:1
Fourth Gear: 1.205:1
Fifth Gear: 1:1
Sixth Gear: 0.818:1
Fluid capacity 1.8 litres
Applications:
June 1996-July 2002(JDM)
Supra turbo
final drive 3.266 to 1 TT (Japan market)
( 3.769 to 1 - late model NA 6 speed)
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First Gear: 3.285:1
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If you are using a standard 1jz-gte (91-93) you have to get a 2jz water pump if you are running ele fans correct?
Not sure on earlier 1JZ, the Vvt was an easy remove clutch fan, hook up thermos, link below could be of help if you do need to swap.
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=35702&highlight=1jz+water+pump
anyone help?
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comparisons.
R154
This is a robust 5-speed transmission found in the MKIII Supra Turbo and Toyota Soarer (turbo) up to 2001.
Ratios:
First Gear: 3.250:1
Second Gear: 1.955:1
Third Gear: 1.310:1
Fourth Gear: 1.00:1
Fifth Gear: 0.753:1
Soarer tt final drive 4.083 to 1
Mk3 supra(r154) final drive 3.7 to 1
V160
Ratios:
First Gear: 3.830:1
Second Gear: 2.360:1
Third Gear: 1.680:1
Fourth Gear: 1.310:1
Fifth Gear: 1:1
Sixth Gear: 0.790:1
Applications:
final drive 3.266 to 1(Japan market)
1993-May 1996 Supra turbo
V161
Ratios:
First Gear: 3.724:1
Second Gear: 2.246:1
Third Gear: 1.541:1
Fourth Gear: 1.205:1
Fifth Gear: 1:1
Sixth Gear: 0.818:1
Applications:
June 1996-? Supra turbo
final drive 3.266 to 1 TT (Japan market)
( 3.769 to 1 - late model NA 6 speed)
This of any assistance? -lifted fron local Toyota site(they are pedants, so usually accurate.)
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Having read this I am reconsidering my plans for an RB25DET swap on my 280zx.
Just to clarify, you mention that this is an S30 swap, surely it would be an
identical process for a S130?
Why not.Not too up on ZX's, but should have easier clearance of steering shaft , from memory the S130 rack is on the back of the subframe.
More room in the engine bay as well??
just noticed you are in Oz,1J/2J half cuts can be picked up for under $2500 at the moment, much easier to install ,and both have more power standard than a RB25. (also, it really upsets the "you gotta keep it Datsun brigade"
i
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Thanks Bruce, your post from 2003 just helped me now in 2008!
My conversion is the RB26 with a RB25DET tranny. I am making a total sleeper and so need the complete stock look to avoid letting the cat out of the bag
Instead of trying to make 30 plus year old primitive instruments work with modern ignition systems check out the modern stuff , it will work better.
the autometer Danjuday mentions that look close to original are one option. I used VDO cockpit series ,push button calibration/ programable over a measured distance available in 8000 and 10000 tacho's with matching speedo in either miles or kilometers 200K, 300K ,120MPH, 160MPH, easy to run off your ECU, I used the 8000RPM and 200K speedo because I don't like the idea of being in a 32 year old Dat, going past those pair of numbers!
Gotta be better than those Dat items that I suspect are powered by small insects(not getting any better with age either)
Fitting easy, I used them on a 1JZ conversion(Toyota powered section)
Not expensive either, cost $400 Australian the pair.probably about what it would cost to re-jig the originals (which would be sort of like attempting mouth to mouth resussitation after rigor mortis has set in.)
Pics of how to do/what they look like on the link to pic's below
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Brilliant information, Mr Teekass, spent hours trying to find cause of one side of car not working on RH turn( but all ok on hazzard) after finding this took me 1 hour to locate problem and repair.(that little "H" shaped spring loaded thingee under the brown plate had shorted out and deep fried it)
Workshop manuals shoud be written like this!
Would have rated this post 10 stars if it were possible.
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Something else to be aware of. The R180, and R200s I have that were from 260Z/280Zs have a 50mm recess in the diff flange to match the drive shaft flange on the uni.
I only have this pic of 2 spare diffs(R180 on the left, R200 on the right, sorry don't have a driveshaft pic.)50mm recess indicated.
the diff flange from a Z31 has a different size recess,the flange is larger,the one I measured was 58mm (don't know about the 280ZX)
Make sure you get the correct matching driveshaft uni end when you find a diff.
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This one is/was(not destined to last long) using a W58 (shame about what he did to the doors)
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=28645&highlight=2jz+sump
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I also got a custom made braided steel clutch hose to use a 260z clutch master cylinder to a Toyota R154 slave cylinder, compliments of my friend Aaron at Driftmotion.com.
Hey Tim, Can you post how this works out? I have a R154 that I am going to put in sometime soon, wasn't sure if the factory clutch master cylinder had enough volume to push the R154 slave all the way.
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sticky?
This is a class build! Good pictures, nice recipe,and he's doing it himself, not a mastercard mechanic.
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Do you get enough leverage out of the mofifyed 240z pedal to open the throttlebody all the way?
work it out when you weld the Celica piece onto the Z lever, pull the cable through till it's wide open then weld in that position, Even if you are slightly out, not a problem, just put some heat on the Dat lever and bend.
)
he did it in half an hour.
my 1jz 260z
in Toyota L6 Forum
Posted
R200 viscous LSD shortnose into long nose casing, obviously won't work with R180 and R230 into R200, The number after the "R" indicates the size in millimetres R200= 8 inch, R230 = 9 inch( and a little bit)R180 = 7 and a little bit,-get the idea?
But, if car originally fitted with R180, drive shaft same item as for factory fitted R200 open.
Swapping centres only really going to be advantageous if you have the 200 allready- we seem to have got more 240/260Z's with R200's in Australia than you got in the states, I think all cars here were 5 speed (and a few auto's), never seen a 4speed, could be why.
Item hiding somewhere in my computer, will put up link when I locate.