RUSSJZ-ZED
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Posts posted by RUSSJZ-ZED
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Thanks,thats what I wanted to Know.The inside diameter is the same,wasn't sure about outside,but if a 240Z(R180) fits an R 200 I should be OK,( Bars obviously different) Loath to pull it out ,burn them and then find there was a bush difference,long wait for another set to arrive.
Did the USA get many 2+2 automatics?As far as I know, they were the only 260Z/280Zs that got an R180 .
I will post result after I fit them, in case anyone else runs into the same p/n difference
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just recieved a master set , 260Z,280Z, part number listed in check list for moustache bar says 4X 1006 bushes, the ones in this kit are 4X 1003, Difference???
Is one part number for R180 bar, other for R200?
Which bar do 1003 fit?
Cant find a part number listing, on this site or the net,
Are they an interchangeable part?
Murphys law says this will be the wrong one.
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another thing to check is if the steering shaft will work, original poster is in Australia-right hand drive. (Need a lot of stamps on it as well.)
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The 1JZ Vvt head uses a different exhaust manifold to the earlier 1J, not interchangeable,Hard to get info on this engine, anyone know if there was a change in valves/cams? Also any similarities with the 2J Vvt?
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So what is the torque on this beast?and at what revs? the Vvt on the 1J halved it's max torque figure. Mine is downright scary in the wet, a little to much throttle and it does figure 8s.
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Definately a swap,and in view of it's originality, probably on the cheap.Thats the problem with some of the stuff out of Japan, when good stuff is added,it usually means the car has had a thrashing, if its done cheap,probably had an extra dose.
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No, Its definately a 5 speed,and $7500 is a bit much for the package, early floater brakes as well.He knows what he's got, just hopes no-one else does.
The 1J Vvt, is a beast,the single (bigger)turbo , combined with the Vvt gives it max torque 378Nm at 2400rpm,SHEEEEEIT!!! (RB26Dett is 353 Nm).I have never found out what the 2JZ Vvt torque figures are, but they must be frightening.
The down side of the conversion is weight,Be prepared for this when considering the conversion, does not bother me as car is street cruiser, Mine tips the scales at 1290 Kg,(2838lbs)will hit 1300Kgs when I get the air back in.But even if you were building for track, the weight increase is leveled by the huge power.
Balance is 53% front, 47% rear.Engine mounts moved to off the rails behind the strut towers. disappeared the original mounts from the crossmember which made it easier to set up a 2 turns lock to lock power rack.
If your car is intended for the street, you definately do not need to go to the extra cost of a 2J.
Both engines are real easy to transplant,(wire-up is a bit of a nightmare)
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Hmm, scratching my head, I googled Mk4, R154, and got nothing! My oracle is the local Jap engine importer,Originally he insisted the manual Mk4s, pre the big brake intro, had a 5 speed R154, but on asking why it don't google very well says The 154 in the 1993 half-cut "might " have replaced an auto in Japan"
he has been trying to convince me of my need to pull out my 1JZ Vvt and replace it with this combo. I suspect in his over enthusasm, he told me some lies.
Not interested anyway, the single turbo 1j has more than enough grunt for a dedicated highway cruiser.
apologies trying to convince you a sales pitch(for a dodgy conversion) was a production car.
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After some research, Any Mk4 Supra 5 speed from Japan domestic market will have a 154 box, all NA's and early TTs(pre-Getrag).. The W58 5 speed only used in export left hand drive models
So a 2JZ tt with a 5 speed would be a late 1993 early 94.
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Most Mk4 Supra's in Australia are 2nd hand ex Japan, The 5 speed R154 box was standard till mid 1994 on NA and TT, the TTs went to the Getrag 6 speed, Think the NAs stayed with the R154 .
Different Toyota domestic models had Differing shifter positions, The one from the JZX100 Chaser comes up in the Dat hole without modification. It fits.
I think the Mk4 Supra has slightly different stick position
You will need to angle grind off the Datsun gearbox mount locators in the tunnel.
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Diff from 1993 300ZX NA, LSD,R200 5 bolt flange halfshafts., What internals of the shortnose will swap into the R200 (1976 Z)longnose casing? Done numerous searches, but subject always sidetracks into R230 swaps.Big differences,If internals are swapable intend to modify halfshaft outer CV to suit 260Z.
Anyone done this?
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Quote.The toyota V8 was something i never even thought of, quad cam and 32 valve is nice relaiable and powerful technology, but becomes a little expensive if the engine needs modification. Although i suppose all that new technology would give it some decent ponies to start off with so performance mods probably wouldnt be nesscessary.
I would guess aswell, that the newer motor would be better on fuel, a big plus with the rising prices these days. Has anyone done a LPG or Propane conversion, i heard these days you can get almost as much power, but much better fuel economy.
!!!!
You will probably get 5 years plus out of a reasonable condition Toyota V8 before you need to replace things, then you just buy another engine, the Rover will probably need medication next week. And will leak more oil than the Exon Valdez.Thirstier than Oliver Reed.
There is a V8 Soarer in Perth Australia with a two Gas Research LPG carbs set up ,about 1000 HP on standard engine do a search on google Australia, probably find it. featured a while back in Zoom mag.
PS. seem to remember it had a supercharger as well, could have something to do with the 1000+ HP!!
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You probably have the jack in the wrong place, try and position it so that when you let it down. the diff does not "lean" and lock on to the 2 vertical bolts,If you have the jack in a central balanced position, Mo bar should come down, unhindered with it's own weight, slight angle, it will lock onto the 2 vertical bolts.
I did this today, had same problem ,untill I figured getting the jack to a centre of weight position,Then it fell out, a bit faster than I had planned.
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I have a late model Subaru liberty power rack fitted, no bump steer.
Steering shop that shortened/modified my trackarms say that power steer will eliminate (most)bump steer . True or false?
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Even if you could find a BMW v8 in Australia, the initial price, and cost of installing would be WAAAAY top heavy,
Anyone down here that wants to go V8, should not go past a 4 litre Toyota, can be picked up for $1500 ,Drop in easy, this is a great engine,Technically 100 years ahead of the Rover, Unlimited parts availability here in OZ, As light as the Rover, with 3 more cams, and 16 more valves.
The P76 was last manufactured 32 years ago, that's a giant step backwards.
And As I pointed out to Bushie on ClassicZ, Rover,Primative,thirsty, English rubbish, named after a dog.
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I've used a 16 inch on a previous project, cooled great, only problem I found with it was when it was running it sounded like a helicopter , my wife said she could hear the fan coming up the driveway before she could hear the engine.
On my 260z 1JZ I put on two 12 inch(perfect fit onto rear side of 260Z standard radiator- no shroud- intercooler covers most of front side)hooked up 2 temp switches so they would run sequentially, Even on a 40c degree day,city driving, runs quiet and cool on one ,I don't even think fan number 2 ever cuts in.
they were no-name off ebay Australia, $34 each new with switches.
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1976 260Z(Australian)2 seat, 1JZ Vvt,single turbo, spare tyre , 10 litres fuel,1250Kg -Heavy little engine!
Supra TT brakes? Blackmagic?? out stop who?
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
I'm using the M/S from a Mk4 Supra, bore about 27mm, bolts up to a 280ZX servo without mods, calipers are early Mk4, 2 pots(big) made spacers to fit on 260Z struts. On 5 stud hubs, only needed a little turning to fit the rotors.(17 inch wheels-need 16 inch wheels minimum to clear calipers)
Stops better than the originals