RUSSJZ-ZED
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Posts posted by RUSSJZ-ZED
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The rubber mounts on the chaser 1J are different to Mk 3 Supra,(two studs one end , one on the other) also metal mounts to block did not look like pictures I have seen of Aristo/Lexus and Soarers. Don't assume Toyota used same bits on all models.
I found when setting up the location of engine (dumped the whole lot, with accessories, into car and blocked it to it's final resting place)that retaining the original Toyota metal brackets was going to make more trouble than what it was worth, steering intermediate shaft clearance for starters, made pattens with MDF to get the weight to be bearing on top of the rails. MDF easy to work with to get it set up ,chop bits out till you get the right fit, then do steel.
By getting away from dat mountings on crossmember(cut them off)weight goes back-also makes it easy to remove rack/suspension when you need to.
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Following information on oatmilks car, found this Toyota L6 forum, How long has this been going? Yes!! a nice quiet corner away from the RB26 is king crowd!!Here in Australia, these pedants are everywhere!Toyota ruins the "originality" an RB20/25/26/30 doesn't(????)
Finished this conversion engine wise, all approved and road legal. Started it over 18 months ago , inspired by the local(I'm in Australia) Zoom magazine project car-since sold to England.
On this forum, Cyrus' car showed me where it could end:flamedevi, but I want a car I can drive on the road every day.(still keep looking at it Cyrus- that is THE car!
this is a real easy transplant(apart from the wire hook-up)
First decision, think it through ,work out what would work, only ask for advice when totally cornered.That way any screw ups are my own.
Decided to go for a Vvt,Reason? one (bigger)turbo sounded less complex,less to go wrong. also, later model, cars this engine came out of mainly 4 door saloons, Late Chasers(a few Soarers) Sort of less likely to have had a hard life.
Half cut was a 1997 JZX100 chaser auto, don't know what the missing half looked like but the front half was like a new one.
I am aware of the story that the rods on the Vvt are weaker than the earlier models,when I hear of anyone actually snapping one, I might start to twitch and panic about when it's going to happen to me. The Vvt came in in 1996, I think still in production as late as 2006. Better get used to it if you want a late model J series.Now 13 years since the non Vvt. The factory power figures on this engine are 208Kw@ 6200rpm max torque 378Mn 2400rpm!!( better than a standard RB26DETT)
A free flowing exhaust, pod filter and a front mount IC gets it close to 300 RWHP.
Pulled the engine out of the 12/1996 260Z(Australia did not get the 280 engine, we had 260s till the start of the ZX's in 1979. pulled the engine /auto out of the Chaser and dropped it in the Z to see how it fitted, Catalitic converter had to go,(it was right on the turbo exhaust flange)front pan replaced with rear(or middle?) from a Soarer, everything else,no problem,Fabbed engine mounts to bolt on to 1J block at original, half way back Chaser position, set it up to sit low so a 2J could be a drop in later(not happening, even in un-molested form I have discovered since driving it. this engine WAAAAY! overpowers a flimsy 32 year old Z car.)
I welded a 6mm flat plate onto the rails, widened at the point where a pair of XJS Jag mounts sit, 3/4 of mount sits directly over the rails other bit of them on the slightly wider piece.(all weight bearing down)- Fabbed mounts I did in 6mm steel as well, engineer who approved it all said 4mm would have been OK, but I am big on overkill, little bit of extra weight not a problem in a road car, -solution, go on a diet, get a skinny girl friend.
Everything, steering wise has ample clearance,Subaru rack, 2 turns lock to lock, (this is a right hand drive car, much more room for intermediate shaft clearance in a left hooker.)
Auto shifter pops up dead center of Datsun hole.no work there. another fabbed mount at the back of auto, Had the drive shaft shortened and balanced (professionally)with Toyota yoke , connected it to R200, and nearly ready to Roll.
I had bought a R154 to drop in, but due to the rules in this state, all engine swaps have to be certified by a government approved engineer,(only about 50 state wide) emission rules get close to Californias. To hard to get approval with an aftermarket ECU ,and as the Vvt runs the trannie through the engine ECU it was easier to leave it auto (for a little while was the original intention)
This is a brilliant auto, after driving it, I'm hooked, it stays till it's broke!(and I have always disliked automatics- for women,oldies, cripples, and people that can't drive.This one changed my mind!
Because of the engine/auto feeding each other information it is a little bit harder to hook up, had to get the local wire guru (Known country wide as Sideshow)to do this for me. He had done 30 plus non Vvt "J's" but as he said "this is the engine we will be getting from now on,better get used to it. this one is the test case" Still only took him 3 hours to get it running, -took two more visits to get top gear to operate .Weird switching.
Bad news, good news, The chaser does not have an oil pressure gauge, good news, the transmitter on the block has the same thread as the Zed transmitter, screw it in, Dat gauge works.(still with the usual geriatric time lapse)
VDO makes a matching tacho and speedo, remove the Dat instruments from their cowl push VDOs in, tight fit,make sure they are aligned, get a tube of silicone in a gun, fill the gap between the cowl and the instrument( great insulation, never going to move). these are plug ins to the factory ECU, speedo is programable over a measured kilometre(or mile, depending on which one you need)
Thought it was a bit heavy at first, weighed it at the local tip 1290 Kgs,but had to get a real weighbridge ticket recently for engineering, came in at 1250Kgs. this is the real figure,apart from flares, no body mods.extra weight all Toyota. 53%front, 47% rear empty.
Try this link to pic's unfortunately flickr shows last pic on as the first to be viewed, so start at the other end page 2(???)
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Another one from Oz. ROH Milano 3 piece,17X9 rear 17x8 front. Like Simmons, not much spare change from $600 per corner,
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Simmons wheels made in Australia, all their range are 3 piece, in Australian dollars. none of the range under $500 per wheel. Nice but at a price.
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Looks like you have urethane bushings on both sided of the rod. Thats kinda a no no, as it doesn't allow proper flex and will snap the rod. .
?? More information??
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If it ain't broke ,wasn't made in UK!
or;If it ain't broke,wasn't made by Jaguar!
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Hmmm, cheap buy for the engine, but have you priced parts? I had an 88' Jag XJS. Loved driving it, hated working on it. Damned starter was $400 and took like 6 hours to replace. Don't go Jag. Don't go V12 in all honesty.
Sounds like you were lucky, at least you got out before the steering rack died.
Boy from Oz's advice good, check with an engineer, Queensland is probably the only state you would be able to do it, and the draft plan for Australia wide standardisation of the rules could be taken up sometime soon (this was on the DOTARS site but could not find it when I looked today.)
Aussie 74, just noticed you are talking about a pre HE,petrol wise, better alter your plan from a weekend driver to a leap year driver.
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Have you noticed when you drive past petrol stations that petrol now costs a lot more than it did a year ago?
My theory is that the price went up due to the shortage caused by Jaguar V12s drinking far more than their fair share.
There are better, lighter, more powerful, more economical engines out there.
First clue ,None of them made in England!
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There is a variant of the R154 box, longer rear, that puts the shifter further back, it is from the JDM JXZ100 Chaser,(1JZ Vvt,206Kw @6200,378Nm@2400,factory single turbo)
could also have been in the non Vvt JZX90,not sure
Bad news is it is not easy to find,
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Subject to the experts
coming up with a real good reason why not,I'll give it a try,I have to do the ones on the car sometime soon, allready mashed one in my spare set(and still havn't managed to get it out ) The bolt head also should make a good point to turn them if they ever lock/rust up again.
C'mom you expert guys, reasons why not?
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Good idea. Must be lower priced than originals,
Any strength problems?
Have you notched for the lock pin, or left it out?
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viperredls1z, just looked at your pic's, SUPERB!! That is one great Zed!
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Only just noticed your post,Brakes were from NA
As someone has said there are better options,but like you, had a set sitting there,so used them.
Couple of pic's, the bracket, I am going to have to redo this, as when the pads wear down the bleed nipple will eventually contact the strut.(getting close now)
Discs needed small amount taken out of center to fit hubs.(Billet hubs, so no point in giving you measurments)
with the Supra M/S ,280ZX booster, brilliant stopping,
Will only take a little thinking to set up, work out spacer, and you will have big cheap brakes
(Still need to lower front, and get the wheel back a little from guard/dam)
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zero bump steer.
The restrictor sounds like a good easy fix,but wouldn't it also increase weight required to turn at slow speeds as well? -taking the power off right across the range?
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Maybe you should consider some sort of electronic control box + Vehicle Speed Sensor + a flow solenoid to restrict the assist at higher speeds (this is what most modern cars uses these days ie 300zx, MR2 etc). I have been thinking about PS for my zed, given the larger tyres and suspension setup I will be running. Good to see threads like this.
There is a Subaru rack I am chasing down at the moment, When hooked up through a control, only needs a couple of resistors to give" light" for city driving, flick a switch and it "heavies up "for the highway, Only really need the two "feels" , but through a speed sensor would probably even it out.
What I have done , as the car is a cruiser, I live in the inner (inner!) city(Sydney)works great, but to the unprepared,(This has happened) with 2 turns lock to lock, it's quite easy to move the wheel an inch, and instead of overtaking, be up someones driveway on the other side of the road! It is POWER power steering!I love it, my friend ,who will never drive it again, will recover in time.(nerves that shot,shoud not be driving!
)Zgeezer, if I had read that long version before I went power- I wouldn't have! It is easier than that.
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the rack I used was from a 1999-2003 subaru Liberty(Japanese assembled), 2 turns lock to lock, good feel, not too light, great for city driving,but gets a bit frisky over 110 mph(185KPH)
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wrong Energy suspension Moustache bushes ,
I posted a warning about these a few weeks back,The kits are factory pre packaged so there are probably a lot more out there with the wrong moustache bar bushes.
(The ones that were in my kit were Chev Corvette.)
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Conside using different tie rod ends - I read on another forum somewhere (an Australian Site if I recall) that a guy used Nissan Sunny/N14 tie rods ends on the subi rack.
that was my post, Before you rush in, check out what racks were utillised in US. In Australia two different racks were used(australian made,and Japanese) racks were quite different to each other( and right hand drive as well)I used the Australian made one which had a tie rod end about two inches shorter than the Japanese ones.
Japanese ones were to long, not enough thick area on tie rod to re-thread.
Was not to difficult to set up, tie rods were shortened and re threaded, steering arms needed a slight reeming to match taper
Tie rod ends should not be to difficult to source, all you need is reasonably short,and inner thread that will match a re-threaded Subaru tie rod,
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This could be of help To anyone that has bought a master set laterly, the one that I got(from www.Energysuspensionparts.com) contained a moustache bar kit that contained 4x1003 bushes, these are incorrect( for Corvette) look like Datsun but a fraction bigger, total sh1t to really ruin your day, WILL NOT FIT!
These kits are pre packaged, so check off your part numbers, could be a few more with incorrect parts out there.you need 4x1006
Energy Suspension(the manufacturer, not the sales outlet mentioned above) will replace/exchange the part free of charge.
AAA1 customer service,Express post to Australia
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the adjustables would fix it, but car is being built for cruising,bit of a waste,never use them once the scuff was adjusted out.I'll try tyres.
How is your 130 2 seater going? they are 1000% better looking than the 4 seaters Nissan Australia decided we should have.( even the Z31s look good without the back seat.shame we didn't get them as well.- One good thing about the 350Z, Nissan australia didn't get the chance/choice to screw it up)
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Massaging, or cutting are not options, I have a Zenon front dam and any "tweeking" of the guard will have to follow into the dam, right on the junction of the guard and dam is the problem point. The rear edge is the thickest part of the Zenon, it would deform at speed with the edge cut back. Think smaller diameter tyres may be the way to go, don't need much, only touching on left wheel on full R/H lock.Pic of wheel in straight ahead position in my gallery on classicz.com(same user name)
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The offset is all wrong, the Z32s will not clear a standard spring, tried to put one on the rear of mine to reduce track, will not come close to a fit.(I run a nissan PCD 5 lug)
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I have a problem with the tyres (just)catching on the outer edge of the rubber (and bending) the bottom of the front guard when on lock. -17 X8 inch wheels, 235X45 rubber,
The control arm rubbers are about to be replaced with urethane,will the new urethane bring the arms back in line(if this is problem,original 30+year old bushes) or do any problems arise if I reverse the bushes and put the longer bush side to the front, to create the small clearance I need?
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Pic's, I have never been able to post a pic on this site, always a problem. I have posted them in my gallery on classiczcars.com same user name.
Pic of M/S and booster shows the spacer,I did not use this, just cut the studs off to same length as on 260/280Z booster- easier to adjust clevis.
slight resetting of pushrod into M/S(2 minutes,plus another two to readjust clevis on pedal end.all that is required, two new pipes cost $15 at local Hydraulic shop))
This is M/s of a car that did not have ABS, the ABS M/s has a third fluid pipe, don't know if just blanking it will work.
The two piston calipers were also on the TT cars until about mid 1994( someone correct if wrong) then they went to 4 pots.( This 2 pot setup also on the Chaser turbo, which was a Japanese market only car.)
2 pots were ok unless you were into big power. They bolted to same brackets so if I come across a set might give them a run.
coming up with a real good reason why not,I'll give it a try,I have to do the ones on the car sometime soon, allready mashed one in my spare set(and still havn't managed to get it out ) 
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1Jz, 2Jz oil pans in
in Toyota L6 Forum
Posted
The front pan will not work in a J series into a 240/260/280Z,(unless your names Mandrake) there is a mid pan and a rear pan, what cars did the mid and rear pans come out on?I'm not even sure which one of these I have, anyone know? I suspect it's a mid, but dont know what it was from, anyone have a pic of the last of the set? I have been told the mid one is the hardest one to find.
Front sump/pan on 2J tt on left. my ??? on right.