YellowFever

I need an outer housing (wheel end) for a 300ZXT CV shaft. Anybody have a spare from a failed shaft they don't need? My cracked one is from the long shaft but I think they're identical on both sides.

I saw the boys from Roadkill yesterday at SEMA so I now have a Freiburger, Finnegan, and Dulcich autograph on my HybridZ hoodie. Rotsun was there also. That pile of Datsun and Ford is spectacular in it's crappiness!

1ea: Short sleeve t-shirt, Asphalt, XXL 1ea: Sweatshirt, Charcoal, XL 39443

An update: a confession that the car is in fact all Datsun. Matt now admits that he never saw the engine, and apologized for lying about it. http://www.thesmokingtire.com/tag/matt-farah/

Oooops... too slow. The little gold piece is a ferrule... it slips over the hardline and is compressed by the fitting to form a seal. In order to use a compression fitting like this the flares would have to be cut off of the hardlines.

I had some terrible resonance at 2000 rpm when I installed an MSA exhaust in my 280. The addition of a generic glasspack muffler in the transmission tunnel virtually eliminated the resonance.

Not sure about the fuel lines on a 240, but the 280 has 3 fuel lines: an 8mm fuel feed, an 8mm fuel return line, and a smaller vent line to the charcoal canister (all 3 of these fuel lines are on the passenger side). Anyway, 8mm is .315" and 5/16 is .3125"... so the two are very close in size. Perhaps one of these fittings would work on your fuel supply: http://www.summitracing.com/search/Part-Type/AN-to-Tube-Adapter-Fittings/Fitting-Size-1/minus-6-AN/Fitting-Size-2/5-16-in/

Have you seen this thread? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130304 It shows how the Autometer 5" gauges can be modified to fit inside the stock speedo and tach bezels. I just finished fitting my new gauges and it isn't really too difficult... but the results are great! I also added LEDs to my tach (instructions in the same thread) and extended the trip reset knob so it extends through the stock Datsun speedo lens (yep, instructions for that in the thread too). Oh yeah, these modifications can be done with the dash in place. Hope this helps.

My wife gets to go with her bosses... but I'll be stuck at home. Oh well, that gives me 4 nights to plop that 302 into the Z without getting nagged about it!

Inside the driver's side lower rear control arm? They're a bitch to find when they fall in there!

Nevermind... I found a set.

Like the title says, I'm looking for some CV Axles (especially the passenger side) from a 1984 300ZXT for my CV conversion. Let me know whatcha got... PM or email to YellowFever -AT- comcast.net Steve

The S12W calipers interfered with my 16" rewinds ever-so-slightly when I test fit them. Slight grinding of the caliper "vent ribs" would have solved the problem. Instead I opted for the S12+8 calipers which have no interference problems at all.

My car has 16" Konig rewinds on it with 225/50-16 rear tires and 215/50-16 front tires. I have urethane bushings, Tokico HP struts, and Tokico springs. The rear tires rubbed the fenders on big bumps until I rolled the fender lips. Also, I had to trim my MSA Type II front airdam so the tires wouldn't rub when turning. Now about those brakes... I have Toyota 4x4 calipers and vented rotors on the front of my car. I don't have any clearance issues with the rotors. However, I am using the S12+8 calipers, not the S12W calipers. The S12W calipers are a bit bigger and rubbed my wheels SLIGHTLY when I test fit them. The rubbing could easily have been fixed by grinding some material off caliper's "vent ribs" as Derek mentioned.

From post number two in this very thread.

That dashpot is only installed on manual transmission cars. It is there to keep the revs from dropping too much between shifts by providing a slight resistance to the throttle linkage as it returns to the idle position. The reason that you never see them hooked up to vacuum is because they aren't supposed to be hooked up to vacuum. The "nipple" on the dashpot is there to allow air to escape from the back of the diaphram while the unit is resisting the linkage's return to idle. If you apply vacuum to that port the dashpot will be retracted at all times, rendering it useless. Without the dashpot installed you may notice that your RPMs drop below idle for a second or so before returning to normal idle RPM... this happens on my car every time I press in the clutch approaching the end of my driveway.

Yep, both were ceramic coated.

I bought a 3-2-1 header from MSA that was warped like that. In fact it was warped so badly that the y-pipe wouldn't slide on nearly as far as it should have. In order to use that header I would have needed longer studs in the front and rear holes... there wasn't enough "meat" sticking out to get the nuts threaded on. They replaced that header no questions asked, but I had them send me a 6-1 header instead. The one they sent me was slightly warped but nothing like that first one! I wonder if the ceramic coating process is warping those headers, or if they get warped when they are welded together.

Pics would be great... I can't quite visualize it yet. I'll send you a PM with my e-mail address... most photos posted here (photobucket) are blocked at work so all I get is a red x

I currently have a throttle cable on my fuel injected '76 280Z. I am planning to switch to SU carbs and would like ideas (pictures if ya got 'em) for connecting my existing throttle cable to the SU linkage.

Just like the title says... I'm looking for a balance tube for my SU manifolds (prefer early non-EGR balance tube), the section of carb linkage that fits between the SUs, and an SU fuel rail. Let me know whatcha got... Thanks!

Hmmmm.... that drawing you made looks kinda familiar to me... The body color of mine is Ford Vapor Clearcoat Metallic. Not sure what the stripe color is from, but it is very similar to my "Smoke" Nissan Titan. The paint scheme you drew looks fantastic... go for it. I can't wait to see pictures of the finished product.

My t-c kit looked just like that. The span across the measuring device is 57.5mm (2.263773 inches according to my conversion program). Can't remember what bushing I used at the rear 'cause I'm old and can't remember anything that I did 2 years ago.

I also have a 280Z NA with a JET HOT coated header and non-vented hood. I removed my intake manifold heat shield when the header was added. I haven't had any vapor lock related issues since doing this... but I haven't driven the car during summer without the heat shield, either. My heat shield looks like crap, but if I begin to have heat related issues this summer I will paint the shield with some brake caliper paint and bolt it back in... problem solved.

dhp... I guess you can still read this even though you're on a 7 day vacation. You could have your intake shaved and JET HOT coated like your header. This would look nice and also provide additional heat protection when you remove your intake manifold heat shield. Earlier you said "It's gotta be chrome and it can be done". Well, you're right. If it HAS to be chrome it can be done. People chrome plate aluminum motorcycle wheels all the time. It has more bling and requires less maintenance than polished aluminum (it also makes the wheel heavier and possibly more brittle... but that's not usually important to the bling crowd). To chrome plate alumuminum they will have to copper plate, nickel plate, and finally chrome plate the metal. Any welding done to fill in holes would probably be well hidden by this process.